bgambino

Hey Nip Can you elaborate at all as to what is involved? Anyidea as to cost of a heating unit? thanks Bill

A couple of things: I was so excited having my forst Outback (96) Esp heated seats drivers seat: back element heats bot the part you sit on does not--anyrthing it could be or just shot? Where do you get a new one and how tough are they to replace? The switch is for high and low right? only the high light works Pass seat..nothing...neither lights on switch come on Are the bulbs replacable? Do they just pull out? Oh...the clock on the radio does not have a light so it is not visible at night...is this normal or is there a bulb out? If so...how do you get to it thanks

Thanks Porc...! You guys are some resource! I'll be back within a few days when I borrow a code reader,,,car runs good but seems sluggish..hoping whatever the code is will be the problem

assuming i find one of these subie gadgets in ebay... 1--how would I reprogram it to work with my unique code? 2--what years would be compatible? I have a 96 OBW thanks

Thanks guy...found it BTW...the the transmitter that came with the car does not seem to work even with a new battery..probably shot but I thought I'd ask if there was any way to test this somehow Any way to get a new one? Not from the dealer of course as that would surely be cost prohibitive...are there universal types that could be purchased? thanks

I had no battery in the car for quite some time while doing a HG job (96 OB wagon 2.5) When hooking the batt back up the parking lites flash on and off A sticker on the radiator support under hood tells how to stop it Either press a button on the keyless hand held thingy... or..."turn ignition to run position and press programbale button near the keyless entry control unit for 1 second" Where is the darn button?? I looked in the owners manual but did not see it...altho I may have been too impatient and missed it Thanks

OK...I got water circulating and heat and all is fine I was guessing that maybe there was a big air bubble near the thermostat and think that is what it was...not allowing t stat to open. Here's what I did: Disconnected both hoses to heater core at firewall disconnected upper rad hose at radiator rad cap off bleeder cap loose I put a funnel into the right (driver side) heater core hose and loosened the t stat cover a little Poured some fluid into hose till started to drip out..tightened t stat cover Slowly filled radiator Went back to filling hose at heater core Fluid started coming out of other heater core hose so I lifted it higher Finally fluid came out upper rad hose Hooked up rad hose Hooked up 2 heater core hoses Started with rad cap off and let run Worked perfectly...t-stat finally opened and added a little more fluid to radiator

I did a search and Setright wrote: Filling Close up the bottom end of the cooling system, ie. thermostat and lower hose. If possible, perform the next phase on a slight incline, car pointing upward. Get a funnel with about 10 inches of half-inch diameter hose on the end of it and slide this down the upper hose in toward the engine block. I do this because bending the upper rad hose causes it to collapse and that makes pouring coolant into it impossible. Pour your preferred coolant directly into the engine block. Pouring slowly, and pausing along the way will help keep air from being trapped inside the block. It should swallow at about two litres before it starts to rise and threaten to come out of the hose. At that point, attach the upper hose to the rad and continue to fill slowly through the rad cap hole. Once it seems full, start the engine, let it run for twenty seconds and shut it off again. This will dislodge the few air pockets that are unavoidable and the fluid level in the radiator should drop a little after the burp, top it off. Start the engine again, and let it run until the radiator fan starts running, be patient! When then fan starts running, top off the level in the rad and install the radiator cap - and bleed screw if there is one. During the warm up, a small amount of coolant will spill over the rad filler neck, have a cloth to absorb it. Take the car for a shortish run, just a few miles to get it fully warmed up, and park it on level ground. Check hoses for leaks of course, and let it cool. This will take a number of hours, overnight is good. In the morning, note the level in the expansion tank, it will probably be a little lower than FULL. Fill to the FULL mark, and you're all set. Obviously, you should check the level in the expansion tank for a few days afterward, but there shouldn't be any problems. Resist the temptation to open the rad cap, this will only interfere ******* Have you got any ideas?

thanks nip and porc I don't really know the histor of the HG failure...I bought it this way Porc---I could do that but remember...after running hot several times over the course of 45 minutes...I then took of the heater core hoses and blew out water that was cold..thus water did NOT circulate thru it She's running very nice after just installing engine...it just seems that the water is not circulating for some reason...the new OEM water pump has to be turning so I don't understand what is happening...The bottom rad hose never got hot...the water in the heater core never got hot...but of course the water in the engine did. I started it and ran it for a few minutes several times and each time the gauge would creep to hot so I shut it down. Seemed like t stat was not opening. So I took t stat out and it was wide open...unless it just so happened to open just as I was removing the housing (seems remote)...?this is weird....keep thinking guys, I need you!

I did not have time to read all 4 pages so my apology if covered already what about your gas? Is it old? Have you tried starting fluid into each spark plug hole and see if she fires over?

Yes..surfaced heads and valve job all OEM parts incuding H gaskets Tightened HG per Haynes I think all lines are hooked up (what would this have to do with over heating... & cold water still in heater core?) I did keep topping off...seems like the water is not circulating...but how would that be possible? thanks

Ok,,,,I finally finished this job (2.5) ...replaced everything with OEM..had valve job done etc Back in car Start: One lifter noise...after a few minutes went away...sounds smooth Idle high (1600) and wont come down...all of a sudden she drops to 750 but is stumbling...3 seconds later back up to 1600 and smooth...5 seconds later to a stumbling 750...and she repeats that cycle over and over. Maybe something with the code...no reader..have to borrow one from guy at work (this problem seemed to disappear for now as I started and stopped engine numerous times due to temp problem below My big problem is temp. Slowly rises to top --goes faster if I rev. I filled coolant per instructions on this forum Used funnel and 12" hose into top rad hose...slowly...got quite a bit in..filled read slowly then exp tank. Car was jack up as high as I could go too So I'm saying to myself..is it possible that I put thermostat in backwards? Off it comes. There was steaming fluid coming out as I was loosening. Nope, t stat in right with spring toward engine...and T stat was wide open!!!! oH...AND i HAD NO HEAT WHATSOEVER Took both hoses off firewall and blew some water out of heater core and it was cold (no ************ I thought) Now I'm worried that somehow the waterpump is not moving water (again it is a OEM new pump.) What gives?? I want to test drive this baby You guys are great...tell me it's something simple...lol

hey guys I have a code 32 and want to replace my oxygens sensor...I took a quick peek and it looks tight down there,, 1--do i have to drop the Y pipe off the engine?? 2--does it stick out enough to use a box wrench or do I have to buy a special socket? please dont advise doing a seach on the subject...I did...spent 1/2 hour...was some nice reading but nothing that directly answered my question 3--one of the guys here gave me a nice link for reading the codes on these early legacies...http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html Can anyone explain the difference in "erasing the trouble codes" and "resetting the ECU"? Which will I need to do after replacing the O sensor? thanks

2.2 automatic 2wd wagon car is Dad's ...it is not insured and I have in the paper to sell...I test drive it and the damn light comes on...runs great tho I dont have a code reader...is there any way to find out whats wrong without it? I know the older loyales have the flashing light on the ecm box to read codes \thanks

sorry guys I do have subie wires and there is no nipple--there's a big flat flap on the end of wire that covers this hole along with the spark plug opening There is clearly a large threaded hole in the head to receive a bolt--2 on each side can someone advise how to post photos? this mystery is bugging me....thanks

that sure seems strange as there is definitely a hole with threads in the head. The spark plug gasket (on the v cover) has a hole in it that the bolt would go thru(there are 2 in each cover) These sure seem like they should have bolts as it would draw the valve cover in tight and compress the gaskets well Anyone have a 96 ish DOHC and can look I could post a pic if needed

Gary Is there really a timing belt kit that has all the pulleys? I bought all the individual pulleys from 1st subaru

I am finally finishing up a HG job I started loong ago I was about to put the valve covers on....I have the 6 bolts and new grommet washers...but I see two more bolt holes in the VC in the center that tighten around the spark plug rubber gaskets. Can someone remind me what the hell these bolts look like??? I don't see anything in my bags of parts that go in the holes....or some kind of gasket washer either....this is the problem waiting a year to finish a job thanks 96 2.5 DOHC

thanks GG and cookie...!

thanks guys Gary...I'm a bit confused by your last sentance. If the TC was sticking out some wouldn't they (drive plate and TC) "mesh" together perfectly...except the problem would be that the eng and tran housings would not come together effortlessly....thereby it would be the eng-to-trans bolts that would be the ones to drive it closed (and possibly damage the tranny) I don't have the TC off the trans...I am just worried it may have gotten jarred out of place. Would you guys recommend pulling it forward some and playing with it to make certain it is in all the way On the other hand...I would think I should be able to measure the depth from the eng housing to the drive plate....and also how far out the TC is from the trans housing---they should match....? Another thing...haynes said my drive plate mounting holes would not be equidistant (only goes on one way)...not true

I recall often hearing on this board about the torque converter not being seated all the way back and that the engine could still be bolted up...and big damage could occur. Does someone know (with certainty) how you can know for sure it is all the way back in? mine is a 96 OB wagon 2.5 DOHC with automatic of course thanks

thank you Shawn

They were removed when the heads were done (by the machine shop). My local "stealer" wanted like $10 a piece. I ordered them from the west coast

Thanks AVK Anyone want to comment on the question re: the plastic 1/2 moon inserts?

thanks HS. I do have that article, it's a good one. But interestingly that article says nothing about installing the tensioner either left or right. Where did you come by that information about pushing completely left?