bgambino

96 2.5 DOHC automatic—136K very clean condition---head gasket job Cams and lifters are now out—tomorrow, heads come off Okay 1)--1st thing: I was still a little worried about the drivers side cam shafts rotating and causing damage when I took the lower passenger side idler off. When the belt became loose, a few seconds later the top driver side cam turn abrubtly counter clockwise…the bottom one remained still==I rotated it clockwise by hand……this still does not seem to be a safe way to do it…should I have done something differently? 2)—one of the idler pulleys has a little more play in it than I think it should so I will replace it. The T belt tensioner pulley is hard to figure out since the bolt is set-up to keep things loose (right?). As for the other 2, I can feel a hint of movement, but maybe this is okay…? 3)I have labeled and bagged everything. Is it okay for the hydraulic lifters to sit for 2-3 weeks OUT of an oil bath? 4) I read where some have smoothed the areas where oil seals rub (cam shaft area, inside where front and rear crank seals go)with 600 or 800 grit paper. Which grit and is it done wet or dry? Cam shaft looks like it could use a little 5) Why have people posted 14 and 7 foot pounds for the cam cap bolts (7 for the front I think)? ALL the bolts look identical (I thought the reason might have been because the front bolts were smaller—they are not) 6) I really could not see any sealant under the front cam caps as I’ve read there should be. Are you supposed to smear a tiny bit under them upon reassembly? 7) Tensioner….what’s the consensus….replace or no? Unfortunately I am an idiot…I did not do a comp test before starting this Car drove okay but lacked power up grades and engine light was on too….idiot…!

thanks all...and thank you Storm & Gnuman....good clear concise answers! You are right...I found the hash mark on the crank tab. What is the brown looking RTV type material under the fron cam cap and in the sharp corners of the valve cover gasket (and also sealing those 1/2 moon pieces on the back side of the head)....is this the anerobic sealant I keep reading about? What is the trade name of this stuff and where do you buy it? Is it true as someone else mentioned that you should not reuse the cam cap bolts? What does IIRC stand for? And, is it normal for the cam caps to be numbered like mine are...I never heard anyone mention this b4

So is the consensus that I do NOT have adjustable valves with shims?? I am not familiar enough to tell by looking-----the end of the lifter that is visible simply looks like a solid piece of steel (not sure what the “bucket” reference is that I have read about). I have never heard about replacing the cam bolts b4…..any other opinions on this as well as whether I should replace the head bolts or not? When all the timing belt related marks are lined up (single and double hash marks on cam sprockets), where is the crank shaft gear supposed to be pointing (there is a small triangular imprint on the face of it…?)? ….I just set all the hash marks in alignment for the T belt just to see where the crank sprocket should be pointing---but the only mark on the crank sprocket I see is a triangular depression (almost like a pointer), and this is pointing to 3 o’clock…this does not seem right…it’s not pointing to any reference point on the engine….?

Hey guys Finally got going on this project...head gaskets on 96 OB 2.5 DOHC EJ25 Never did head gaskets....done numerous timing belts on GL's and loyales I have owned. Need some help from here..done some reading (Haynes and posts) but would like to touch base on the next steps. I have front belt covers off and valve covers Next is to remove T belt--I am lined up with #1 at TDC of comp stroke (here's something weird--Haynes shows the notch on my crank pulley being towards the rear of the car but mine is on the forward/front part of the pulley...?) 1--How to remove belt...just unbolt tensioner? Should I rotate a little so there is no tension on any of the valve springs? Then remove lower left idler (looking from front)? 2--Remove cam sprockets?How?Then inner plastic T belt covers 3--remove 6 cam caps. Is 1/4 turn each okay? Do I have any "shims" in this motor and do I have valve adjustments to worry about? Intestingly, my cam caps have identifying numbers scribed on them with arrows pointing toward front of engine (for example "R31FD" on pass side and "I2BA on drivers side)--these look like factory markings...? 4--Next, remove heads...weird looking head on bolt...I read that you have to use a 12 point 1/2 drive socket correct? Is a 1/4 turn at a time okay for these? Thanks...I love this board...!

Okay,,,my mistake--it's a 96 thanks for all the advise Does anyone know of a post or 2 that discusses how to hold the cam sprockets so as to take off timing belts? Once the T belt is off...do I leave the cam sprockets clamped while loosening the cam cap bolts?

Thanks ao97obw I read Haynes and also bought Chilton (do not like the CHilton at all) Someone posted a link to "Endwrench" for the timing belt job--this was very good and seemed concise I've replaced enough timing belts on the GL's and Loyales that it's a snap (never did HG tho) I have the engine out of this 96 Legacy 2.5 to do a head gasket job and the more I read the more ominous it sounds I think this is a twin cam...? Does this have the shims in the valve area? If so, what does that mean for me when disassembling (I don't even want to confuse things by asking about the shims and the assy. process now) One of my concerns is whether I need some special tools for this job: special crank pulley (holding) wrench? there are 2 different tools recommended by "Endwrench" to hold the cam sprockets...they make it sound like you better have them or valve damage will occur...? Assuming I line up the crank to TDC on comp stroke (BTW, Haynes did not specify the front or rear of the motor when they show a diagram of the firing order--is #1 the rear pass plug?), I'm worried about the cam moving when the belt tension is released (valves colliding per endwrench)

I bought a 98 Outback wagon with supposed blown head gaskets It overheats Funny,...it seems to lack power....is this normal for blown HG's? Also has check eng light I took out the 2.5 engine. Before taking heads off I have some questions --do I have to keep the cam shaft and accessories arranged so they go back in the identical spot (I'm not sure what parts there are going to be)...do the lifters have to go beck into here respective spots or does it matter if they get mixed up ---any way to soak and clean out the lifters or is that not a good idea? --Do I have to follow the tightening sequence in reverse when taking heads off?(loosen bolts little by little?) I'm trying to figure how much to do on the engine Would it be advisable to do the front and rear engine seals? I plan on doing timing belts and cam seals & valve cover gaskets --water pump --should I replace the oil pump?..or just the o-ring thing (I'll ask about this procedure later) --also figured I change the crank pulley as I've read here that they have some kind of rubber inside that deteriorates WHAT ELSE? Thanks guys Bill

no coolant in oil..... I just want to be sure that the engine is okay before doing HG/timing belt/water pump/tensioners--the works So....assuming the anti-freeze is the reason for poor acceleration, would a compression test be adequate to tell me that the engine is okay? One good thing is that I can tell from the receipts that the lady (original owner) changed oil regularly When I get close to being ready, I will be asking advice for what all to replace while doing HG job--I am very familiar with the loyale type Sub --done timing belts many times--am a little apprehensive about the Legacy since never touching one I was told that the HG job can be done with engine in...true?

actually it is a 9 2.5 no oil in reservoir why a bent valve? could compression be low just due to bad HG?

Hey Guys I just bought the above wagon...supposed to need head gaskets Seems that there are some bubbles in antifreeze when running Drove it...temp good for a few minutes....but seems to lack power...like it is running on 2 1/2 clinders going up a grade or hill---Is this typical when needing head gaskets? Pulled into driveway and temp gauge was nearing top...some antifreeze appears to have blown out of top of reservoir.....interesting tho that even though the upper and lower radiator hoses were warm, the radiator itself felt cold....? All insight/experience welcome Also...check engine light was on...and at one time it was blinking

My post from a few days ago disappeared off the board....?I am very familiar with the Loyale CV axle replacement...wondering how different the 96 Legcy job will be....do they still have the pin holding it to the transmission stub? Do you still loosen the ball joint to swing the strut tower out....and whats with the axle nut?...it has that spot bend over to prevent it from loosening...how am I supposed to straighten that in order to get the nut off???? thanks

anyone recommend a mail order source for a low cost sensor ?How much do these things run anyway?I have an Autozone nearby...I'll check it as they seems cheaper than say NAPA...also for the special socket I am soaking with a penetrate everyday hoping it comes out easy---might I need to buy a tap to clean out the threads?what is the thread size? 91 loyale non turbo wagon

I would like to replace the O2 sensor in my 91 loyale 4wd non turbo wagon Whats the procedure to get it out without ripping the threads up? should I buy the special socket or will a box wrench work well enough? should I put anti seize on the new one? thanks

will gas mileage suffer? do you need a special wrench? What kind of cost do you think? thanks

I would like to replace the O2 sensor in my 91 loyale 4wd non turbo wagon Whats the procedure to get it out without ripping the threads up? should I but the special socket or will a box wrench work well enough? should I put anti seize on the new one? thanks I'm getting a 3-2 light pulse....car seems to run okay,,,,maybe a tiny bit rough...anyone know? I've had more lights come on this sub than all others I've owned since 11/1979 thanks Bill

on the older Sub's you had to rotate the caliper piston in order to push them back in my niece has a 96 Legacy---I'm doing the rears...it's obvious that they do not need to be "screwed in"....but, do people generally just push them in with a clamp or break the bleeder screw open , then push them in? BTW--what do the fronts look like (screw in type still?) thanks

thanks spazz

help....anyone have an idea??

my dads 93 had the same problem----my question was...how does the damn cable get shorter...I mean you would expect it to stretch not shorten.... there was NO adjustment.....

I need to take some of the front end off my nieces 96 legacy 4 door sedan and probably make a few cuts in the metal and do a little banging (with a sledge) and some pulling with a come-along---she had an accident and scewed the drivers light among other things Can the air bags be deactivated so I don't accidently deploy them?? thanks bill

I did use the 17 mm wrench--mine was not very tight

Hey babe....don't take it so personal...unless you are married to one of the Sub execs.... what recall did subaru do?...thats the point....they haven't done jack *************** ......this from the manufacturer of the cars I love Homerun ehhh....would love to take a wager on that one...bet you thought the same re: the XT

been driving sub's since '80...they have consistently been behind in having stylish looking cars---they seem to be very consistent about this......look at the XT....what a piece of crap!.... And this thing IS but ugly...what a laughing stock... Love the reliability and the 4wd....but power and style were never they're forte' And the head gasket problem and their failure to own up to it is disgraceful

Guys please look at new development....HELLLLPPPPP

I know someone knows the answer to my question....which color wire is the 12v power feed to the radio (at the back side of radio)