bgambino

It's interesting that Haynes shows the firing order with a diagram showing the #'s 1,2,3 & 4 (a sort of top view of the engine)but they do not make it clear which side is the front of the engine. I assume #1 cylinder is pass side front??? Probably a stupid question as the #1 is probably always in the front....I just hate instructions that are incomplete

Shortlid I am in stormville...15 miles from Brewster....glad your mom made out well...never heard much about smith carins either way. email me if your mom is ever interested in selling her suby bgambino@pawling.com thanks

Commuter....what is a "motorvac" treaatment"?? thanks

hey guys The oil pump o-ring on the 96 2.5 legacy I have the engine overhaul gasket set There is one o-ring that looks close to the correct size but seems a little small in the diameter (does not look like the proper fit) Then, there are 4 identical o-rings that look like they fit much better but 2 things...why 4? and it is not true o-ring...it sort of has a small molded lip in the ID Can anyone tell me with certainty what is what??? Thanks Bill

If not the alternator...may be a ground problem

Hey shortlid What stealership did you use...I am over in Stormville! BTW...you think your mom would be selling her subie anytime in the near future? That's what I have been looking for Bill

what are cam cap o-rings and are they on a 96 2.5 DOHC?

Porc73....did you do the job yet? not sure...but from the pic, it looks like some metal may be rotten and you might not have enough there to clamp to get a new seal..even with the new gasket

Been driving sub's since 11/79...love them...had a dead battery from that switch just one time. Fact is, the switch is in a bad spot and/or of the wrong design (for the average schmo). Most subby owners are not car enthusiasts...they get in and turn the key....many never even read the owners manual thru (not just subby owners) It's poorly designed evident by the coined phrase "battery kill switch".....but **it happens. Although subaru should have made a change long ago when it was realized. of course, they should have made good on all the failed head gaskets as well....while I love them, the company has a black mark in my book on that score

Thanks gcleeton Finally something simple...I have a 96 as well and lamps are terrible

Basic tools plus a few torque wrenches I am in the midst of a head gasket job now on my 96 2.5...started and stopped over the last 6 months--been busy The older 1.8 loyales were so much less complex than the new gen's(not to say they are terribly complex...but in comparison it is like night and day) If you don't have much experience...you may want to reconsider...and if you have the adjustable valves rather than the hydraulic....really reconsider (mine is hydraulic thank God) I just spent $950 from Genuinesubaruparts...what drove up my cost was I decided to biite the bullet and buy the 3 idler pullies as well as the timing adjuster pulley and the timing belt tensioner (probably about $320 just for these).....got the engine overhaul gasket set ($250)...water pump...plug wires...pcv..fuel filt...etc ($85 for shipping/handling...also got valve job and resurfacing for $250 locally...hope to assemble in the next month I bought car with overheating prob for $400 with 4 new tires....136K ..it's got a nice body and interior is like new...one woman owner

Hey guys I took my heads to a machine shop and dug thru my overhaul gasket set and gave them the valve seals I noticed that the rubber on 8 were black and the rubber on the other were a medium green color Obviosly they are color coded for a reason....which go where??? I want to tell the shop in case they don't know thanks

I will soon be reassebling my 96 2.35 DOHC...(blown head gaskets) I sure hope it goes well ...LOL I was wondering about the threads on the head bolts and cam shaft bolts and oil paan bolts--should the be lubricated with oil or anti-sieze compound...or should they be solvent cleaned and put in dry What's the concensus on other threads such as intake bolts, water pump bolts. & oil pump bolts? I read in another post a while ago about blue loctite? What bolts should get this application?

he mentioned that the asking price is "2,200" personally...I would stay away from it at that price(unless you already had an engine available)...who knows what abuse the tranny also took...sounds like kids were off roading with it...plus the fire damage albeit that it was repaired

Thanks Cookie and others I'll try the cat.....Funny thing, the expert subaru guy (this guy is very good) did not offer any other solution than saying it was the cat When you say $60 cat...is that a subie cat or an aftermarket?

96 legacy 2.2 sedan my neice took her car in to her mechanic who specializes in subarus she has a cel light that comes on and off he read it and said it was 420F...and he said it was the catalytic converter Anyone know if this is correct...if so, what is the code really telling? thanks in advance Bill

Thanks Gary...I gues I have not taken advantage of the search option b4...glad you mentioned it...I have been reading posts for the past 2 hours and am mezmorized(sp?) with all the info available thanks again

I have a few pulleys that I don't like the sound of when I spin them. One happens to be the sprocket toothed pulley. Am afraid to price a new one and would rather replace the bearing (NSK type) than the whole thing. Anyone have ANY ideas on how to find a source for these??? thanks

hey guys ....is everyone on vacation? These quesions are not hard for some of you......?

Hey....where is everyone else? These questions should be chump change for some of you old timers.... Help....please ...? Getting back to my head gasket re-assembly after a few months... I am going to order the engine overhaul gasket set --I remember someone saying that a few necessary things are surprisingly missing (was it the spark plug gasket for the valve cover??or the valve cover bolt washers?) --What is that plastic cover plate that is behind the drive plate mounted to the back of the engine?? I read that it should be replaced with a metal one...is that correct?...I don't think there was a gasket...use anerobic sealant?? --Just took off the oil pump...do you just replace the o-ring and then seal it back in place with the anerobic sealant? Nothing else to be done oon it? --I was cleaning the valve covers and there is a 1" x 3" plastic box on top of it...like some kind of breather port....but there is no fiber material in it...should there be? --Which place is best to order parts online? --Does anyone put RTV sealant on the water pump gasket? Thanks More questions sure to follow

I'd like to get new bearing and have them pressed into a couple of my idler pulleys (96 DOHC 2.5 OB)....especially the toothed idler...I bet this sucker is costly Went to car quest..they looked up he bearing numbers I gave them and said no good Anyone? Also....is 1st subaru still in existence? I thought they sold OEM parts about 10% over cost. Someone said there is a difference between the website and calling in (differing prices) thanks

I have one of these conditions on 2 cylinders on each side of engine

96 Outback 2.5 136K First of all...I tried to upload a pic of the gasket and what I think is the problem area, if correct, I have one problem on one head and the same problem on the other head. I got this message when trying to upload: ...Your file of 1.07 MB bytes exceeds the forum's limit of 50.0 KB for this filetype...how do I get around this? 1—will 1st subaru give me a complete list of what exactly is in gasket overall set? Whats the correct description for this? 2—Can I get just the bearings for some of the idler pulleys rather than get the pulley itself? Maybe the machine shop who does my heads can press them in…? The one with the notches on it really whirs when I spin it…..can you get these bearings anywhere or would 1st Subaru have them/? 2A—The tensioner pulley….when the bolt which holds it is tightened down, it seems there is some looseness…I guess because of the pivoting action and there needs to be looseness….but it’s a bit difficult to tell if there is any wobble in the bearing (it actually doesn’t look a lot like a regular bearing either…not like the other idler pulleys) 3—should I replace the tensioner itself….this is the early type—straight piston….just not sure (not looking to spend more $$ than I have to…opinions? 4—I took the drive plate off today and I have that plastic cover (I forget what this is called but I have read here that I should purchase an aluminum one) Whats this called and whats behind it? Does it have a gasket and do you use any sealant on it? Got lots more questions later... Thanks guys

96 OB can anything be done about these to clean them? Glass lenses have their advantages....

Cookie This engine (06 Legacy CJ25 has hydraulic lifters)---so there is no adjustment BTW...I read a post tonight which talked about bleeding lifters...would this apply to any hydr lifter? How/why is it done?