bgambino

I can't argue with your theory but I have been power washing my subarus for 25 years and never had one bit of problem (oh...when they had distributors and I did not cover it with a plastic bag, it might not start until I dried the underside).....they start up everytime You have to be balanced about it....you don't want to hit delicate things by holding the nozzle 1/4" away from it And another thing...this is not the first time I have heard guys recommend taking the car to the local car wash and degreasing your engine....what country do you live in??? You could never get away with that in NY state.

welcome GXP I've been driving soobs since 1980...and that's the one major thing I don't like about them...the boxer engine sound. It's nice in a porsche maybe... I love the quiet purr of an inline 4... As for your click on downshift...my 02 legacy GT does the same thing...not sure what it is but have other soobs that did it also....should be nothing to worry about...but I have no idea what causes it

probably is a lifter...but thought i would share this experience with you. In May I looked at a 2002 legacy GT...all seemed good. when I went to buy it...started it up and I hear a rythmic ticking sound coming from what I thought was the drivers side head/front of camshaft area Bought the car anyway When I went under it, later, all it was was the exhaust heat shield right below the block...stck a naik in it as a wedge and sound was gone. I was sure that it was coming from the engine...but wasn't

Good deal....it's better than the toyota she wanted

************* Gary yes, the tires are the same and are close Thanks for reminding me..I have to try maybe three flushes first,,,I can only hope that works The GM limited slip additive for the tranny?? It's an automatic New clutches? I thought it was a matter of just the grinding these spots (in pic)

ok..thanks OBWan (subaru master of the galaxy) so I don't have 16 flashes but i definitely have torque bind...putting in the fuse made tight circle test driving feel fine.....so Now I definitely have no choice but to drop that rear piece of the tranny to fix it??? Is there any other possible problem instead ?(just grasping for an easier fix...LOL) I read quite a bit of old posts ...some with nice pics...last week move the exhaust (I think i'll drop the complete exh from the motor) drop the exh shield remove the drive shaft? (is there any fluid that comes out?) next? there is probably a tranny support right under this piece (whats this piece of the tranny called BTW?) Do i block up the tranny and remove this support brace then take what is probably 12 or so bolts off? then tap this part off? How much is a duty C (I don;t know that I really need it as the light was not flashing and I am selling the car not keeping it) What parts do i need (gaskets?)...anything else? I saw the picks of the grinding that has to be done Will the parts come out with the tail piece of tranny or remain under car? thanks for the help from anyone that has done this Oh....is there more room to work with the front wheels on ramps or the back wheels (it aint a lot of room either way LOL)

well...the only place i have available tomorrow is carquest we'll see if they carry that kind if info anyone know if all 4 (or 5,,not sure how many are back there) are identical at least?

93 legacy 2.2 I have torque bind,,,put fuse in (you can see the FWD lite is on) I want to make sure the AT bulb is working/not been removed Is it the "POWER" light at the bottom (it's lit up green with the key on)? what 2 lites should be above the spedometer at the 50mph area what should be to the left of the FWD what about to the right where the "brake" lite is...there are 3 spots not lit up Maybe some of these are options... Anyone have an owners manual??? thanks

02 legacy GT Have speedometer cluster semi-apart to change bulbs that illuminate gas gauge,speedo tach etc (one is out...figure I'll change all) Take a look at the pic...aside from the blue condom slipped over the bulb, they look like a standard bulb (these were used in the front subaru corner parking lites in older models) OR...are these something special??? Please, no guesses...I don't want to take the dash apart again thanks

Now understand that I am a long time Subaru lover...my first was a 1980 DL sedan. I love the cars especially the 4WD in SE NY state. I have bought and sold many during the late 80's and early 90's as a $$making hobby I love that the engines have the easies access to work on) My observation has always been (and still is today) that Subaru just seems to be behind the curve when it comes to eye catching newer body styles Now before you newer sub lovers flame me.....you really have to look at pictures of the past 30 years and compare with the competitors of the day Now we have the 2010 model I'm sure it is better than what we have....the interior looks romier...better mileage...more power..etc But in the parking lot at work...there sits a brand new silver one Next to her is a year or two old silver Camry Jeez...they look so similar from the back and side Her nose looks to me to be a relative of a maxima/altima.... I still love them(except for the HG problem they should have been more accountable for:horse:)....but it they we just a 2wd car company....they would only be 1/4 of the company they are now

oops:banghead:

Hey Jo"xx" Well...that should teach her something...LOL...she should have sold it to me while she was still here in Brewster:lol: Bill

Log1...what do you mean the front sensor should post its own code? WHere? How? Is there a way to check an oxygen sensor (electrically?) thanks

thanks guys Anyone know if ther is definitely a AT light on the dash? I don't have the owners manual to be able to look...and I used a flashlite to see if any of the idiot lites were for the AT, but the flashlite did not illuminate it so as to tell what they are

John Nice tip. In actuality, thats what I have used in the past,,,the intake. I have a very smooth polyester 1/2" dia rope...easy to rotate engine if needed

newly acquired 93 legacy automatic shutters good in toght circle both left and right turns put fuse in and no shutter! one thing i looked for tonight was the AT light on the dash with the key on (I read that there is supposed to be one right??)...there was none I will change the fluid a few times but I should put a bulb in...I did some research here and I think a flashing AT light could mean the duty c solenoid is bad...is that correct? (whats involved in changing it) All guidance welcomed (I don't want to learn how to take down the rear part of the tranny:-\) Also it had a rythmic thumping (not really a thump but a growl...sort of)...rythmic with tire rotation...driving straight and turning wheel to left and noise is heard...turn wheel even just a little to right and quiets down mostly I would guess wheel bearing rather than cv joint (no clicking anytime)...?

OB99W...I was hoping you would weigh in.. altho I dislike your answer...LOL:banghead: $100.36 for a front 02 sensor ...OEM mail ordered from 1st sub + shipping....yuck...and no guarantee that it is it...sheesh

now I thought I always read on this post that the first thing to attack (assuming there are no exhaust leaks) is the "front" o2 sensor I was PMing another member on this board about the double spark plug anti-fouler he used to solve his problem...ends up he used it on the rear 02 sensor. I assume it should work the same on the front Someone just correct me if I have this wrong 1---if you are running with a bad front 02 sensor, it's a fact the performance and/or gas mileage will be affected..?(what I don't know is whether the 02 sensor actually tells the computer to trim air/fuel mixtures etc) 2--if I use the anti-fouler on the front, and the light goes away, the car should run exactly as if there was a brand new o2 sensor in place....? (now, IF the 02 sensor DOES indeed tell the computer to make certain adjustments......it would seem obvious that using the anti-fouler will prevent normal function...to what detriment) I want to avoid a $110.00 OEM sensor in lieu of a $5 fix Also...I have been soaking that sucker with PB blaster for a few days...put a 22mm open end on it and nothing....any tricks here?...i really hate to drop the Y pipe...i'll probably have to end up re-tapping some of the threads....does not look like space for a socket.

I am constantly using anti sieze...I wish the factory did so also...! also....thanks for the tip bheinen

What they said...and if it is an automatic, make sure you took out the 4 bolts holding the drive/flex plate to the torque converter (access thru the small hole on top of engine on pass side...nothing will give if this is not done. Otherwise, I take a large screw driver and carefully spilt the joint apart

yep it's an automatic...4wd It has all the same brand tires ...fronts were a little more worn than backs so I rotated today...nuts! I meant to measure how close/far the tread depths compared Front brakes almost new...just did rears....was hoping to test drive again after correcting tire pressures and rotating tires...BUT,,,,the passenger side rims were so stuck to ther rotor, I had to finally take a sledge to kknock them off,,,in my zeal, I whacked the darn valve and have to get a new one put on....never had that kind of problem with any of the scores of subs I have had

sorry...not the axle...it is permanently attached to the complete bearing hub assembly. I'm not replacing that just for a better water shield...

:banana:There is no tag under the hood to tell me the motor size How can I tell if it is 2.2 or 2.5...It seems that my Haynes book shows both were used Had an exhuast noise..I found out today one bolt was missing at the block where the Y pipe attaches (yes it was stipped)--so I tapped a 7/16-14 and put a new bolt Had a very noisy bearing in the P/S pump..changed with a spare Doing rear brakes Drove it down the street earlier...sounds like a bad bearing...makes noise with steering wheel straight or turning it to left...quiets down with any turning of steering wheel to right Was a little concerned about some shuttering when driving in a tight circle Another question I have not seen on the board...where does everyone grab the motor when lifting it out?

Dave...thats exactly what I did...I pitched the PCi belt and bought a suby...that is a suby in my photo

I've come to the conclusion that the corroded part is part of the backing plate...and I DON'T want to find out how much that costs....:-\