Tolerance02

I may be able to answer a few of Your questions. Tilt on steering wheel; there is a second handle under the steering columm that is used as a basic adjustment, maebe that is in the lowest position. Heat sensor; must be temp sensor i guess; You can find it on the right side (driving direction) on the intake manifold (look good! it's not easy to find). It is a brass plug with a brown, two wire connector, near the temp gauge who is smaller and has only one wire on it. If it failes it results mostely in problems with restart a hot (warm) engine. Hope this helps a little. Urban.

I fully agree with Tiny Clark. It's a temp sensor or crank angle sensor problem. Maybe the bypass valve on the throttle housing to. Since the check engine light comes on there are fault codes in the memory. Temp. fault code is 21. Crank fault code is 11. Bypass valve fault code is 24. Feul pump is inside the tank, under the trunk floor on passenger side (LHD) just behind the rear seat. (but also I dont think that's the problem) Luck! Urban.

I'm sorry to disappoint you but, no, they are not the same. The 89 and after models are different. Urban.

There are two center (straight) pins that may hold the transmission cover. One right abouve, the other left below. I always hit them out with a pen driver before removing the case. Once they are removed hit lightly the cover with a plastic hammer. Dont forget to remove the revolution sensor first (on the right side of the cover with two whires). Be carefull once the cover is removed, there is a small whire inside that has to be unplugged. Urban.

I agree with tcspeer. A tire problem.

Around freezing point (0°C. / 32°F.) and humid weather are the perfect conditions for icing in the ventury. Sounds strange but mostly it dozen't appear by - 10° C. or lower and bright sunshine. Urban.

Wat was the outside temerature the moment it happend? Sounds like icing in the ventury because the heat riser is not connected or the valve on the air filter is in summer position. As soon as the engine stops there is no longer air flow thrue the ventury, the icing melts so you can start and drive normal. Urban.

I have no experiance with 2.5 engines but all other Subaru engines are well known as perfect convertible to LPG. Since You live in Lille, it's not far away from the Belgian border. I'm not sure about the French-speaking side but in Flanders and Holland are many shops who are specialised in LPG convertion. There is no longer power loss with the latest developements of LPG injection. As we say here: 'it runs like a sewing machien'. But the whole installation became pretty expencive, about 2500 Euro all included. There are cheaper systems but than You have powerloss and more technical problems. I will e-mail some adresses if You will. Tolerance-1@skynet.be. Urban.

Richierich. Are you talking about waterpumps Legacy or waterpumps in general? I can assure you i never had one legacy water pump with bad bearing. The few i had to replace was because of leaking but no free play on the shaft and nothing wrong with the bearing. And as i said before i have a lot of customers Legacy owners since end 1989. And yes i saw a lot of pumps wit bad bearings from different makes of cars but not from Legacy. "Showing sings of leaking" Yes i agree, but did you ever check a new pump after a few months? Very often you will find out that they also are showing sings of leaking, and you should know that this dozen't always mean they are bad. Mabe there are certain (climatic?) circumstances which may explain why you have more problems with water pumps but in my experiance i see no reason to replace a good pump just because i change the T belt. Urban.

Reason01 You were hoping it wasnt the head gasket but after all it was? So you didnt have to replace the thermostat, you didnt have to flush out the radiator and you didnt have to replace the water pump. All wasted time and money. The old pump didnt spin as easy as the new one? Well in my opinion this means that the old pump was better than the new pump!!! The resistance in spinning is because of the pressure of the seal against the surface of the propellor, which was higher in the old pump. So the new pump shouldnt spin as easy as the old one. "Dealerships suck". Well this is the best example of generalizing i've ever heared. I know there are a lot of dishonest people in car service but that doze'nt mean they are all the same. If they dont replace a good part it's because they want you to come back and make more money out of it. If they replace a part that didnt have to be replaced it's because they are after your money to. Sigh, it's hard to be a honest mechanic. Urban.

By the few pumps i had to replace it was just because of a small leak that was detected during a service. Never had a Legacy water pump with a bad bearing. Never had a costumer with breakdown because of the pump. Those engines are non interference so even if the belt should breake there is no further damage. Wen i replace the T belt i do not even drain the coolant which makes a big difference in working hours, radiator still in place, just remove the fan and expantion tank. Legacy water pump is very relyable and i dont see any reason to replace it while there is no visible wear. For a experianced mechanic who has the right tools it's not that much work to remove the T belt if necessary. Urban.

As a Sube mechanic since 1982 I 've replaced a lot of Legacy T belts and never replaced the water pump along with the belt. In my opinion it's a waste of customers money. In don't think I had to replace 5 pumps from Legacy untill now since they are imported here (end 1989). Many of my customers have far over 300,000km (200,000 miles) with their good old first original water pump. So Lesbaru, your mechanic is OK. I think he is honestly concerned about your wallet. Urban.

I have no problem working on carburators but unfortunetly, i live across the atlantic.

A worn T belt will have free play on the teeths. Remove the right cover (passenger side by LHD, 3 small bolts). Turn the crankshaft (22 mm wrench) untill the mark on the front edge of the camshaft pully points upward, (12 o clock). Now, using a 17 mm. wrench turn the cam pully back and forth to see if there is free play in the teeths. If there is, I should replace it immediathly. Legacy T belt is very reliable, it's a strong belt and above all automatic adjusted. Urban.

The 3 horisontal arranged relays are on top of the fuse box. The relays (feul, ignition and blower fan) are abouve the fuse box and vertically arranged. Remove the panel under the dash and steering column, the relays you are looking for are behind the 'tray' box. The blower relay is the third from abouve with the colourless plug. Luck! Urban.

By left hand drive, the seat belts relai should be between the globe box and the radio console, remove the globe box, it is the one abouve the turn signal (alarm-hazart) unit. The power window relay is under the left (drivers) seat. But they do have the same fusible, Number 15 under the dash. Good luck. Urban.

A failing booster should result in high and hard pedal pressure. There is air in the system or pads or shoes are mounted incorrect. Sometimes the rubber dust cap on the front brake pistons can be wedged between the piston and the pad, this causes the same effect as if there is air in the system. Also the shim plates on the pads may cause the same problem, if placed incorrect they work like a spring that pushes the piston backward. Hope this may be some help. Urban.

The relay with green plug (on top) is the Feul pump. Brown (second from abouve) is the ignition The blower relay is the third from abouve with a neutral color plug. Luck! Urban.

Could it be the catalyst? I Know it's not a common problem by Subaru but by other makes it is. The ceramic block komes loose or is broken inside the exhaust (could happen if you ever hit a stone or something) and the exhaust pressure produce the banging sound in frequence of the engine revs. This ceramic block warms up very fast and becomes very hot what may explane the differance by cold or hot engine. Hit the exhaust with a rubber or plastic hammer could give the same sound. Just a thought. Urban.

Check the radiator on the front side near the right (driving direction) headlamp. There may be a vertical crack in the frontside of the housing. Look close because sometimes it's not easy to see. Urban.

Thanks! The car arrives tomorrow, i will check that at first. But if ATF deterioration, should'nt there also be problems in forward gears? I don't think the A.T. has been well maintained and i don't have any idea how many miles the car has. As i said, nobody here has much experiance with A.T. and those shops who do are very expencive. Urban.

Strange, i have a lot of costumers with Legacy and Impreza, never had to surface or replace one rear drum. A possible cause may be the wheel nuts to tight (possible if using a pneumatic wrench). Specific driving conditions also may be the cause but that should give more problems with the front discs to i guess. Urban.

Legacy 2.2 AUT 4WD '94. Because most cars here are with manual transmission i don't have much experiance with automatic. So i'm asking you guy's. No problem at all in forward gears, and as long as the engine is cold no problem in reverse to. But once warmed up, in reverse the car moves hardly. Engine is reving up but there is only little reaction in the vehicle. The problem is not clearly described in the service manual. Only the general troubleshooting table says, As possible causes; select cable or lever (can't be the problem i guess because forward is ok.) control valve - low & reverse clutch - and reverse clutch. Not one word about why the problem only occures by hot engine. Thanks in advance for any info. Urban.

No matter how you drive, rear drum brakes from Impreza and Legacy (both the same) are very relyable. No problems at all with stuck or oil leacking cylinders and the shoes are good for ath least 300K km. or 200K miles. The automatic adjusters also work fine. The park brake also works much better with drum instead of disc brakes. Urban.