lmdew

Did you record the TCU Part Number information? If you end up needing one, I may be able to help.

Grab a TCU from the yard, you can always take it back for credit.

A good Trans Shop will be able to scan the trans a bit deeper than the flashing light. They should be able to identify the fault/s. Once they do that, you can always take that information and do the repair yourself.

So if I disconnect, the VVT solenoid valve connector and run it that way, it would stay in the start idle position? I have not found a good explanation of the VVT system. Thanks

Contact the seller of the CAT and see what they have to say.

I have used Subaru Half-Shafts I can install, when I get to it. Automatic trans is working for me know as no clutch for me for a few months.

190K Automatic Transmission. Runs well, new to me. Slight clicking FWD or REV when starting out mostly. I did put it up on a lift the other day. Driveshaft u-joints look OK. No noticeable movement. The Driveshaft does have 10 Degrees of rotation. The FWD Half-shafts are aftermarket, so I would think they may be the source. They feel tight. Rear Half-Shafts are good and Subaru.

Doctor said it should heal without surgery. Sweet! Helped a fellow with a 2003 Legacy Outback get it on the road today. The Trans was down 3 qts. Would move in reverse but not FWD. Gear Ratio error codes for 1 - 4. Check your fluids!!!

Thanks, it will set for a bit as I fractured my knee cap. That's life.

I picked up a 08 Outback, Auto Trans, 153K on it. PO said it did not run in the add, Dead. Well I got there and he said a friend came over the night before and they jumped it and it started. While I was there, he started it and it sounded like a great running Subaru. I bought it. He was very low on gas, that was my first stop. Well a mile or so down the road, the engine starts running real rough. So do I stop for gas or just head home. I headed home as it was only 5 miles. Well as I started up a slight grade, it died. Called a friend and we got a 1/4 tank in it. It tried to start but no go. We towed it around the corner to a side street and I had a tow truck come and get it. The oil is very dirty! That will be my first item. I'll test the VVT componets and pull them if needed to clean the screen. I hope an oil change takes care of things. May be a bit of Seafoam.

The Better Halfs 06 Forester started dripping oil on the floor. I took a look and Bank 2 VVT was full of oil. A quick trip to the car wash and some Simple Green cleaned it up. After a day or two of short drives, I could see the Oil Pressure Switch for the VVT was wet. I cleaned it with brake cleaner, pulled it and cleaned it up a bit more. I reinstalled It and after a few days it still looks dry. An extra turn on the pipe threads most likely took care of it.

Your experience with 2000 - 2007 JDM engines. Thanks

My 2005 Impreza takes a few seconds for the cruise to stop flashing after I clear the code. If you have a reader that will clear the code, it's pretty easy to keep the cruise working when you like. Best to eliminate the problem, but clearing the code should restore the cruise for a bit anyway.

Check the coolant level in the radiator, fill as needed. Then pressurize the system, hand pump or let it run and see where it's dripping from. I've had water pumps leak and run back along the oil pan lip. That's a big leak, should be pretty easy to find.

Sorry, axle shaft has the circle clip which is spring loaded. Once the axle shaft is out, you can rotate the inner race to remove all the bearings and disassemble the outter joint. The Inner CV Joint has the snap ring on the axle. The joint slides apart once you have removed the circle clip at the rear of the CV joint, just inside the boot.

With the axle out, I put it on a 2x4 and step on the axle shaft. With the boot pulled back or cut off, I put another 2x4 against the outer CV and hit the 2x4 with a BFH. Some of them have a snap ring instead of the circle clip. For those, you have to rotate the inner rack so you can remove one ball bearing at a time. Once all of them are out, you can pull the shaft back and remove the snap ring and inner race.

Just had to look a little deeper in the drawers in the garage. Found a good one. I went to they yard on Monday, but every Subaru had the engine pulled, Alt and all. I found a couple but the bearings were a bit loud. Fixed and back on the road! Sweet.

Alternator Part Number: 23700AA3708A $ 580.92

I'd hit the yard and pull the harness. You will learn a lot and if it's bad you can return it.

Bushings look like they are shot as well.

Nothing newer then 2006 is my solution.

I picked up an 05 Impreza OBS for a friend. It was hit in the front. The fellow that bought it from the insurance auction put a bumper on it. Runs great, made the trip from NM to CO without a problem. The headlighs are aftermarket and not good. I thought no problem, should be able to pick some up at the yard. Come to find out, 2005.... are all unique cars. I'm pretty sure, if I change everything, I could use 2005 - 2007 parts and may be more. Parts for the swap, Fenders, Hood, Headlights, Bumper... I miss the good old days!

Crankshaft Keyway worn. Removed Key and cleaned up crankshaft with fine sandpaper. Installed crank gear and HB and torqued the bolt to 160 ftlbs. Installed new Idler pulleys and new DACO Timing Belt. Turned the engine over by hand and everything felt good and timing marks lined up correctly. Tried to start the engine, it wants to run but is just not there. With the gas to full throttle the engine will run. I ran out of time and had to head south. It has the old-style tensioner and it was very hard to compress.

I know GD has posted this more than once, but the internet was not happy at the Denver airport today. On Amsoil it said it was 51365EA. Just wanted to double check. Thanks