lmdew

Unhook the battery for 30 minutes or so. If the fault is still present when you turn the key back on it will set again. Can't read the code?

So when it starts and runs, how long are you running it? I take it very short since there is no coolant as the radiator is out? Radiator in, filled with coolant, and no start, is that the case? www.car-part.com will let you search for an engine. If it was running well before the belt broke, I would not give up on the engine yet. What caused the belt to break?

The bulb sockets also. The connections sometimes have very high resistance/burned contacts.

I picked up an automatic 99 Forester 189K. Some banging when shifting from Park to Rev and Rev to Drive. The FWD mode did not change the symptoms. Inspection of the driveshaft and rear diff. did not show excessive play. It does have aftermarket front halfshafts. When I get to it, those will be replaced with Subaru parts and I'll check the front diff play.

Good Rust free ones from a state like Colorado...... Reboot the Subaru axle and you are good to go. www.car-part.com

Put a spare plug on a wire and see if you have spark. good spark, put a little gas in the intake.

Have you put it into FWD with the fuse to see what changes?

Other than you are in the rust belt. I always pick a car that has been hit hard, at least that way you know it was on the road and driving. Then check mileage and condition. Finally, pull the drain plug and put your finger in the hole to check for bad stuff in the pan. The trans will be drained but there is always some still in there. The auto trans is very heavy. Cleaning the old gasket material off the trans is a pain with it still installed in the car. Are you going to swap the complete transmission?

You can just jump the pins to Power and ground. If you have an old Subaru connector you can pull the sockets out of that is idea. Should click when powered.

Did you check the solenoid operation jumping the pins to power and ground? How's the harness look?

Thanks. I put it on Marketplace, we'll see if it sells. I'm also watching for an engine. No Rush.

Pulled the VVT solenoid plugs today. It started up and ran, but good knock. Drained the oil and cut the filter open, it was full of metal debris. Looks like a engine change. So it goes. I don't know how is sounded so good when they first started it up. That's life.

The PO said the 99 Forester Subaru Keyless Entry/Security System was giving her some problems. I had it auto lock the door on me one time, so I removed it. I did find a wire pulled out of the connector, so that may have been the issue. Anyway, everything works except the lock/unlock of the drivers door with the manual switch on the arm rest. I have not dug into it but if you have fixed this, please let me know. If anyone wants the old removed system, make me an offer. Wiring, mounting bracket, motion sensor, ignition kill switch and siren.

Have to open up the wire harness and repair the wires. If you pull up the FSM you may be able to see what components the harness is going to. What codes do you have?

Did you record the TCU Part Number information? If you end up needing one, I may be able to help.

Grab a TCU from the yard, you can always take it back for credit.

A good Trans Shop will be able to scan the trans a bit deeper than the flashing light. They should be able to identify the fault/s. Once they do that, you can always take that information and do the repair yourself.

So if I disconnect, the VVT solenoid valve connector and run it that way, it would stay in the start idle position? I have not found a good explanation of the VVT system. Thanks

Contact the seller of the CAT and see what they have to say.

I have used Subaru Half-Shafts I can install, when I get to it. Automatic trans is working for me know as no clutch for me for a few months.

190K Automatic Transmission. Runs well, new to me. Slight clicking FWD or REV when starting out mostly. I did put it up on a lift the other day. Driveshaft u-joints look OK. No noticeable movement. The Driveshaft does have 10 Degrees of rotation. The FWD Half-shafts are aftermarket, so I would think they may be the source. They feel tight. Rear Half-Shafts are good and Subaru.

Doctor said it should heal without surgery. Sweet! Helped a fellow with a 2003 Legacy Outback get it on the road today. The Trans was down 3 qts. Would move in reverse but not FWD. Gear Ratio error codes for 1 - 4. Check your fluids!!!

Thanks, it will set for a bit as I fractured my knee cap. That's life.

I picked up a 08 Outback, Auto Trans, 153K on it. PO said it did not run in the add, Dead. Well I got there and he said a friend came over the night before and they jumped it and it started. While I was there, he started it and it sounded like a great running Subaru. I bought it. He was very low on gas, that was my first stop. Well a mile or so down the road, the engine starts running real rough. So do I stop for gas or just head home. I headed home as it was only 5 miles. Well as I started up a slight grade, it died. Called a friend and we got a 1/4 tank in it. It tried to start but no go. We towed it around the corner to a side street and I had a tow truck come and get it. The oil is very dirty! That will be my first item. I'll test the VVT componets and pull them if needed to clean the screen. I hope an oil change takes care of things. May be a bit of Seafoam.

The Better Halfs 06 Forester started dripping oil on the floor. I took a look and Bank 2 VVT was full of oil. A quick trip to the car wash and some Simple Green cleaned it up. After a day or two of short drives, I could see the Oil Pressure Switch for the VVT was wet. I cleaned it with brake cleaner, pulled it and cleaned it up a bit more. I reinstalled It and after a few days it still looks dry. An extra turn on the pipe threads most likely took care of it.