lmdew

They said they wanted to keep it. I told them, I could hopefully get it together and running. Get the old key, what is left of it out. Set the timing marks Install a new Balancer and torque to 140 fl lbs. See if it runs Alt install Fans install and give them a running Subaru.

Crank gear is shot. 3/8" play back and forth on the shaft as I rotate the the cam gear. Part of the key is moving and all buggered up. I hope I can fish it out so I can get the crank gear off.

I looked at a 94 Impreza, only 145K. The Damper was completely gouged out. There was only about a 1/16" of the keyway still showing. Move up and down on the crank shaft 1/4". Key was moving in the gouged crankshaft 1/4". I stopped there as the owner didn't want to go any further. I have the key tig welded to the crankshaft. I know others have used JB Weld or just aligned the crankshaft gear and then torqued down the bolt as much as possible. I should have taken a picture.

Empty. Last Day - heading to recycle Monday.

Hubs, Brakes, struts and lower control arms Sold today.

Hubs and halfshafts removed and in Parts. Passenger side rear stuck in the hub, soaking it. 99 Trans with spin-on filter remove and available. Brakes and rotors removed and available.

Yes, Colorado Springs, Colorado 80919. I think the trans is going today. I will pull the axles and hubs... In storage!

I'll post it in Craiglist as well. 98 Subaru Legacy Outback Part-out, Fits 96-99 Subaru - auto parts - by owner - vehicle automotive sale - craigslist

She'll like ones that fit! Happy Holidays.

Used seats are pretty cheap at you pull yards. Glad you found a fix.

Could head to the yard and pull a complete harness and swap them out. Sounds like he may have more going on with the trans.

I forget if you ground it I think it goes full hot. You can check the resistance and see what it does with increase of temperature.

I've had good luck with the repair kits.

Always good to to the yard and try it on a car there. Most of them have a little press to release tab.

Most likely the rear separator plate. It's easy once you have the engine out. Unless there is clear damage to the rear main, leave it alone. The separator plate, clean reseal and locktite the screws. You should have the aluminum separator plate.

Happy to bring a rust free Colorado Subaru back to WI for you. I've done half a dozen over the years for family and friends. Enjoy the new to you Subaru,

A loss for Portland, OR Subaru Owners for sure! Enjoy the next phase of life. Thanks for all the answers and information you provided on USMB!

Disabled! Thanks.

I could jump on a flight and come out! Best of luck! I've had a few that ran fine with a new belt. I then went in and did a full t-belt, cam and crank seals, idlers.

Pretty easy to put a new belt on. Turn it over by hand to make sure it's not binding and then start it up. If it has bent valves it will not be running like a good Subaru should. Bent valves can be taken care of, but it's a bit more work to pull the heads. I'd pull the engine at that point.

Yep, that will most likely be the solution.

Spring is there and there is slack in the cable. Thanks

Betterhalf was driving, and said the Forester was acting strange. I got in and it had a huge amount of drag as I let out the clutch. Pulled off the expressway and popped the hood. Yep the hillholder was not releasing. No tools other than the Subaru kit in the rear. I was able to get the hillholder cable retaining clip off the bracket and open the hillholder completely. Problem solved and we made it home 80 miles. I may just leave it disabled if I can not get it working properly.

Well I was going to get it Friday. Had cash in hand and then the Dealer's Sales person said the owner had already committed to trading in the car on the new one. Deal Stinks! $500 for a 2008 with 120K on it, but they told her it needed about $10K for a new engine. I'd tell them to keep the NEW Subaru!

I hate when you can't service normal wear parts! Throw away life.