lmdew

Also want to blow the water out of the Knock Sensor area.

I've put many of them on, no problems. On used engines that I've pulled, I've seen only one failure and I have no idea how long it was on. I've seen many failures of the Black stock Subaru idlers, as they are often ignored and run to failure.

A used engine is good if you need it. The problem with selling a used engine is you can't give a warrantee. Most of the Yards say 30 or 60 days. They self serve yards are getting 2-300 for an engine. If you put any money into it and try to sell it, you will be behind the curve. Cores or $100 each.

I work on Subaru mostly because I like it. I fix a few and sell them. I tell the people if they have a question or problem to let me know and I'll take care of it. If you have done quality work, that should not be a problem. I had one fellow call me back 6-8 months after I sold him a 96 Impreza with 200K on it tell me it was using Oil. OK, the wife had driven that car for a year with no problems. I suggested he look for leaks and I doubted it was using the oil. I offered to take a look, but he never brought it back. I didn't hear from him for another 4 Months. Then he called me and told me the engine had thrown a rod. Now this was almost a year after I sold him a used car with 200K on it. I still offered to change the engine for $200 if he found a good used engine. I did that and he was once again happy with his Subaru. I lost some time, but I always try to ensure folks are happy with their Subarus.

Most lilkely NO. You have a wiring problem somewhere. You have to get out the diagrams, the motor is the Load, the Power is the Battery, but you want to find the Fuse that its coming from and then find the Ground. When you have the Load, Ground and Power you have the complete circuit. It's then a matter of checking that circuit. Go to www.brighterideas.com and look at the training on U-Tube. Dan has some great basic electrical troubleshooting tips.

Start with the easy stuff, battery and all ground connections clean and tight. With the wippers on, check for voltage at the connector, note you have to have the circuit loaded for a true reading. See www.brighterideas.com for the TesLite Tool that will allow you to do that. Otherwise leave the connector hooked up and back probe the connector with some fine metal strips. You most likely have a short somewhere. Time to get out the wiring diagrams.

He's in Watertown, the heated shop is in Sullivan, WI just off I-94 west of Milwaukee. I'm sure he could do it, I just know from doing this in the past it's much easier the second or third time. Thanks, Larry

I don't know that he drove it, I think he just started the car in the driveway. Good thought though. Thanks

My Brothers 97 Impreza OBS has the flashing AT Temp Light, 16 times and torque bind. When he put the FWD fuse in, the FWD light did not come on. This tells me it's the C-Duty solinoid. If you are in SE WI and have changed one of these before, you help would be appreciated. I've changed them and they are not that hard, but if it's your first time it can be difficult. A heated shop is available for the work. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Take your bills into the Shop Owner and sit down with them. If it's a quality shop, they will take care of it. You may have had a air bubble in the coolant system from improper bleeding. The down side is now you have overheated the engine for a significant period of time. The HG are damaged and you may have damaged the bottom end bearings as well. Subaru engines do not like this. If it was me, I'd drop a 95 2.2 moto in and keep on going. PS don't have that shop do the work.

Remember you volt meter can lie to you if you do not put the circuit under load. If you can test it loaded, that great. If you are forced to disconnect the cirsuit you may read system voltage but you many not have a functioning circuit. One of the best tools and book on electrical troubleshooting can be found at www.brighterideas.com. The TesLite leads work with any meter and Dan's Electrical Troubleshooting book is a great reference. Larry

Yes, the bill will just blow out, not get sucked back into the pipe. Old Style tensioner and yes it was leaking enough to drip down on the water pump casting. 130K on the tensioner. This is the first one I had fail. I did not take the time to compres it today.

The better-halfs 98 Outback with a 95 2.2 through the misfire codes the other day. I reset the computer and the codes had not returned, but it was running rough. I don't know were I first learned this, but if you put a dollar bill or any small piece of paper in front of the exhaust and it get sucked back into the exhaust pipe, you have a timing issue or bent exhaust valve. Sure enough, the bill got sucke into the pipe. The RH cam was off 3 teeth. It had a leaking tensioner so I replaced and set the timing. It's happy now.

Check under the dash and see if there is extra wires, I bet someone put in a Security system at some time and tied into that circuit. The Subaru Keyless entry system is a black box about 4x5x1. It's usually held in with zip strips. The good thing is you know what circuit it is. Now it's just a matter of isolating the short.

PB Blaster and let them soak. Once you get them out, you will have to get the bore cleaned up as well. Might be faster to get a new or used set.

Sure your black or green computer connectors under the dash are not still connected?

Pull the codes with a scanner. If you don't have one, disconnect the battery for a couple of hours. Put the battery on a charger to make sure it's fully charged and then hook it back up.

Fixed! Yellow/Blue wire at the radio is the ground for all of the backlights, Gauge Cluster, Radio, Heat Control, Switches on the Gauge trim. All good now, Thanks for the help and the wire diagrams.

I left the battery negative cable off over night and charged the battery. It started right up today. Zero volts on fuse 5 in the interior CB panel so I have to look at the wires. What can I say, college kids thought it was easy and they could cut all the wires at once, with the battery hooked up. Live and learn. Thanks, Larry

The steering wheel parking light switch is off. Once I removed his radio wiring the parking lights are working as they should. Thanks for the wiring manual.

I'm in Wisconsin and a friend has a 98 OBS that will not start. It turns over and fires but will not stay running. I can hear the fuel pump run when I turn on the key. The CEL is on, but I don't have a code reader available. Some additional background. The Son wired in a new radio, not so well as when they did it, the four corner running lights always stayed on. They had to pull the 15 amp fuse in the engine fuse box to get it to go out. They also lost the dash lights. The car was running after the installation of the new radio, so I don't believe they fried the computer. I cut out their radio wiring and that took care of the running lights staying on, but they still do not have dash lights. Anyone have a 98 OBS wiring manual you could email to me? Lmdew@hotmail.com When I crank to start the car the CEL and Battery lights go out but then flash on and off, like I've never seen. I know I need to get the codes, but I have to find a reader. Thanks, Larry Yellow/Blue wire at the radio is the ground for all of the backlights, Gauge Cluster, Radio, Heat Control, Switches on the Gauge trim. All good now, Thanks for the help and the wire diagrams.

PVC coupling is great.

It's down on the drivers side of the transmission. Before you change the switch, pull the plug and jump the wires to make sure the lights come on. It's a little hard to get to, but it just screws in.

Pull the belt off does the noise go away? When the belt is off, check the pulleys/bearings for any roughness.

It should as long as you have the wiring for it.