ericem

pretty hot eh If you like buldged wtf looking yota/lexus's with subaru drivetrain. Sad.

lol I saw that, pretty cool, I am sure it would be insane in mud, snow, etc.

Doesn't it bleed itself? I know last time I filled the fluid I thought it was full, started it and it was low, ended up needing like 1L. Takes a while to seep sometimes.

The brakes will be just fine as long as you Don't mind no abs.

How important is it to run a oem temp sensor? I really wanted to try a temp sensor and got one from a local parts store. It says made in italy. I am noticing my fuel economy is not nearly as awesome as it was before I changed the sensor. Is it possible a leaking oil breather line could create a noticeable fuel economy issue to? Can I try using my temp sensor from my n/a 93 legacy on the 94 legacy turbo? The one I put on the 93 was very recent and OEM. Any input would be great.

I am going to try that. Did you have leaks at the hoses to? I only tried adding lucas tranny fix which is also a stop leak since I had some.

Definitely not something new. It happens. With my car my hoses are very leaky. Same goes for the pump. I rebuilt the seals on my pump, and it was still leaking, turned out to be the gasket between the tank and the pump itself.

Sorry, forgot I don't have a signature like other forums. 94 legacy turbo 2.2l. 4 cylinder motor with 16 valves, fuel injected along with a 4EAT automatic transmission with overdrive and full time awd.

hehe I have been worried about the amount of oil I have been putting in my trans and engine. About 4L in my engine when I did my oil change, does that sound right? My tranny well about 4L-5L? Almost about to do the diff oils so some oil levels would be great, for the rear diff, I guess I just fill till it overflows out? I am about to do another tranny oil change as well.

Does not sound like torque bind at all. Torque bind or not, the wheel should turn fine, just during acceleration you will feel the binding. Trust me my 93 drove with torque bind for a good 10,000km haha.

Dumb question. Is there any fluid in the pump?! With the engine idling, is the pulley spining. I am thinking either no fluid, slipping belt, or bad pump.

To be honest, don't recall seeing a gasket on my transmission drain plug lol. I am sure you can get away with the gasket there.

Id go 75w-90. Same question what is the square attachment I use to remove the plug on the rear diff??

Ya get your wrx checked out just incase you have the same problem.

Looks like alot of sensors are bosch. Id go bosch. Of course the ultimate recommendation is stick to OEM...

The ABS pump I think makes a noise when you start rolling. Maybe that is what you are hearing?

ya seems to be actually.

I replaced, alot of hoses for the cooling system. Did the water pump, thermostat. To be honest I do not recall the idle before. I think right now I am paying attention to it alot more then before. Now I am noticing oil under the intake which is really bothering me. Not sure what I should do? It drives pretty nice, just oil leak after oil leak.

longest i have tried waiting is like 5 minutes. Anything that could have gotten clogged because of stop leak? I flushed out everything as best i could with water and compressed air. I had to remove the coolant tank and clean out the crap from lower line was plugged solid but didnt go past the hose everything seemed to flushed out as water flowed through everything. When i removed the coolant temp sensor should there have been alot of coolant coming out? I am thinking maybe something was still clogged but i dont experience any overheating.

tried more cleaner down the iac didnt work. Cleaned the battery terminals didnt work either. The only time it seems to do the high idle is when i get near boost. I think i am going to get the iac and manifold gaskets. Going to clean everything and hopefully it will be fine. I suspect something leaking because i find it unusual i can hear the turbo with all stock intake. Also notice something leaking oil under the manifold. Leak after leak.....

Hey guys. I am going mad with this idle issue on my 94 SS. Everything is making me paranoid ( is that the word I am looking for? ) After I did my timing belt, water pump etc. I have been paying attention to how long the fans run for. They seem like after driving around for more then 10 minutes, they stay on for more then a few minutes when I stop. I do not recall this before, then again never really payed attention. Car isn't overheating at all either. Just seems odd and i see my idle likes to rise sometimes to almost 1k. Then goes back to the middle at 500rpm. Then creeps up again. It is REALLY annoying for me. Also when I start it warm, seems like something is wrong. The rpm's bounce up and down and the engine shakes noticeably. I replaced the coolant temp sensor, but it is still the EXACT same. What really bothers me, is I bought a non OEM sensor like a idiot. Said made in italy, but I REALLY wanted to try it. I tested it with a meter the readings were like a OEM sensor should be. Other things to mention. Recently things I tried. IAC cleaner down the IAC tube, plugs, and wires. Already seafoamed the motor as well. Also it won't do this, unless I have been driving around for a while. Not sure if low voltage could be the issue as well? At night my lights get noticeable dim so they are probably at the 11v range need to confirm tomorrow when it is at idle. Could the ecu be telling the iac to let the motor rev a bit higher to compensate? I am going to try a new battery and clean the contacts I am thinking. Any other ideas? Thanks!!!!

To replace the rear quarter you need to drill out all the tac weld, first remove the rear glass, a bunch of trim pieces, gas filler tube needs to come out. Little things and large things. It is alot of work. I suggest you try to pull it and make it as smooth as possible as that is the easiest option, and replace the rear door and other parts that are bolt on for now.

What is a pain in the rump roast about the overflow?? With my 93-94 legacy's simply pull out the pipe going to the rad cap, and remove one bolt and the tank lifts RIGHT out. In the process of cleaning mine right now btw

I have a question. Are these torque specs for real? http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/oil&water_pump_install1.jpg 7 ft-lbs on the water pump bolts? Do I put locktite on ANY bolts? Should I just put a dab anyway on everything. I am thinking I will retorque everything inside there with locktite.

The car is automatic. Everything APPEARS to be original. No real signs of anything being removed like the motor, or tranny. Then again there shouldn't be any signs lol. Good idea, probably going to visit a yard somewhere and get one. Is it a big deal running without it right now? I guess avoid back roads or something?