ericem

Did you use a OEM sensor? You did replace the ECU temp sensor right the one with a two pin connector. Try resetting the ECU unplug the negative terminal on your battery for a good hour and try again see what codes come back. A purge solenoid could cause some running issues so I could definitely see startup being a possible issue.

If your engine is messed. Shows if there is any contamination from coolant, bad oil, metals in your motor, etc etc.

ya it seems to be however when ever i rev the motor when hot i can hear fluid circulating through the heater core as if there is air. I have a funny feeling there is still some coolant stop leak somewhere is the system from a while ago i flushed it as best i could as well as the heater lines. It does still drive me crazy but im not going to worry about it till the summer. By then ill remove the intake and crossover pipe and stuff and pop in a wrx turbo and intercooler.

Yup all oem parts even tried a new rad. I found a thread actually where a guy had similar issues and it turned out to be a defective OEM thermostat. I hope mine fixes itself I don't feel like draining the coolant for the 4th time. Hopefully it won't hurt anything anyway. As long as it is not overheating right?

Hey well there is 4 relays under the hood in that fuse box. Located that another fan relay like you said near the kick panel. I pulled each one and when I pulled one it turns off the main fan and the sub fan still runs, under the hood the sub fan relay I pulled and it shuts off. Let it off for a long time and no overheating needle stayed exactly were it was for a good couple of minutes. I am very confused wtf is tripping the stupid fans to stay on all the time. Engine runs pretty good other then occasionally the idle going up to 900rpm's almost as if the car THINKS the AC is on. When I turn on the AC fans come on compressor come on. If I cycle it fans still seem to be running. IDK but this problem REALLY pisses me off especially when I am in traffic, or when I get out for a moment and hear those fans running for no reason. I am wondering if it is something turbo specific to allow the turbo to cool or something, I know there is definitely a huge amount of heat under the engine bay. Also keep in mind I did replace my ECU temp sensor. Once with a non oem, then one from my 93 legacy which was replaced a few months back which was OEM. All the same symptoms!

Trying to locate this relay. I am getting annoyed with stopping and getting out and hearing my fans running forever and ever and ever. Guage always sits just below the middle point and does not flucuate! Thermostat must be closed as the bottom hose gets cold. Car is a 94 Legacy Turbo. Thanks!

Yes basically he is trying to sell you a $200 or so kit which will do F all. Honestly go to your dealer for alignment purposes.

New ones are $100 to

Ya ************ happens. Shops when they do the work they follow there haynes manual probably which states to torque that bolt to 70ft-lbs which is not enough obviously and the bolt loosens over time. FSM states 140ft-lbs.

Happened to me as well. Timing should not go off either. Go to your dealer, and get the harmonic pulley, and a woodruff key. When you need to remove the original one that will be bent etc... just try and wiggle it out as best you can with pliers. I found it was possible by pulling up and forward, up and forward and keep repeating till it comes out and don't drop it in the timing cover like I did haha. Although I used a magnet and got it out. Clean up the area a bit and pop in the new key, and put your harmonic pulley on, and torque the center bolt to a good 140ft-lbs! Trying to think if I am forgetting about something else. Oh ya don't leave your hood open in the rain, right after fixing it in the rain alternator died....

Is your car auto? If so put the FWD fuse in. I suggest you get the tire replaced ASAP anyway, hit up a local tire shop! It is even more urgent you get it fixed with a 5MT.

Hey, I am going to swap my fuel filter from my 93 legacy to my 94 legacy turbo (the one on my 93 was replaced not a few months ago) and I figure I should maybe backflush the filter with compressed air, good idea? Or just push out the excess gas in there with compressed air out the same direction it flows?

Ya I read that too hmm. I used a torque wrench to tighten the bolt though. 140ft-lbs is correct right?

I would guess there is coolant in that one head with higher compression which is giving you the high compression reading. Honestly I would get another guage. that is very very low compression. Did you try a wet test in the other cyclinders?

screw that, impact FTW on axle nuts haha!

Great to hear. I was unable to sleep knowing that you couldn't get that bolt out. I would have been screwed over the following day to. Thank god its out!

Try tightening the bolt a bit, then go the other way.

Did you try a really long bar as suggested? Like using natural gas pipe, or even a torque wrench which is what I used. Although I could not get it to budge (around the same weight as you hehe). Tightening it is alot easier then loosening. My dad is pretty huge so he got it out no problems.

I am thinking remember lefty loosy, righty tighty. So you just put the bolt on and didn't really tighten it, now you are loosening it and it won't budge?! On the crank bolt I guess it is a good idea to put a bit of motor oil on it. I can not see it rusting already that is crazy!! Try harder would be my suggestion at this point. How were the threads on the bolt? Was it rusty?

automatic no worries?

I would love to find a 91 Legacy RS-RA.

valve covers are possibly leaking, rear cam seals. Can all be done in the car.

I am betting on the plastic tanks on the rad being cracked. My car has a similar issue.

I guess that is why the oil sensors leak? So they prevent the headgaskets from getting rusty!