ericem

Heli coil it or i think they have a insert you can put in place forgot what there called.

Yup its a normal bolt. Remember when you retorque it retorque it to 140ft-lbs and put a bit of oil on the threads. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ Go to the timing belt FSM. Explains how to set timing and alot of good FSM's.

Is your engine on when you are checking. Is the fluid a nice red?

Get one of those timing belt kits of ebay only like $100 with tensioners, belt, and some have seals. If your selling it, don't do anything unless the belt is due leave it. Try just running like 10w-40 oil, new pcv, and clean the motor.

the rest of the motor is good. Makes more torque then HP at a low RPM.

reset the ecu and see if it comes back.

Well its mainly labour that is pretty expensive. Try the pcv valve! Hopefully it will cure things, if the ball inside doesn't move it can suck oil straight into the intake. Hopefully the hoses for the pcv lines are not to hard either. Will probably help if you drive around a bit to get the engine bay warm, then try and remove the hose from the pcv valve.

Sounds like a oil leak on the outside of the motor. Never use that crap additive. Did you replace your PCV valve recently? The PCV valve is important since it makes a vacuum in your oil system so it prevents leaks and it also needs to be moving freely so it doesn't suck oil. You said smoking on the OUTSIDE of the manifold which means there is a oil leak on the OUTSIDE of the motor. A few leaks to name a few valve covers, cam support o ring.

Um, its not really over tightening unless its pretty significant like over 100ft-lbs. It is more the fact of the lugs not being tightening equally in a star pattern.

Do 80ft-lbs.

I torqued mine to the stock spec and I was advised no locktite. Something about aluminum and steel bolts. My crank pulley I torqued to 140ft-lb's however with a bit of motor oil on the threads.

Definitely just the bulb burnt out. The shaking could be the brakes, tires, and it seems like you got the tires narrowed down. Any pulsing in the brakes?

probably wasn't meant to be.

When you remove the cap it shouldn't have any vacuum though regardless if the hose is collapsing or not?

I have the same dilema just bought new tires for my stock 15" alloys on my 94 SS but now it seems like such a waste to upgrade to some 16" alloys

OK compared to my 93 Legacy wagon (btw rip ) it was still VERY slow not extremely. My 93 Legacy is much more responsive. Shifting is alot better then creeping to 5500 rpm's and staying there like something is sleeping as it slowlllllly gains speed.

Time for some rims I think!

hmm compared to my turbo 94 SS i found a 2010 legacy basemodel cvt extremely slow, there is no power. It seems like it is just struggling insanely. What I do know for fact is my 94 SS will continue to be restored to brand new as test driving a brand new 2010. Honestly my 94 SS I am sure was just as quiet when new with new wheel bearings and seals. As is my 94 SS is extremely quiet just my motor doesn't constantly moan...... Steering seems way to light to me and there was no pep, I like a car that can throw me in the seat. I am sure with the 6 speed it would have been pretty good though but none instock. Ill check back soon to try a 6 speed

i mean they dont shut off after driving more then like 15mins but if i restart the car they are off and cycle usually. Already tried 3 sensor newish oem, new non oem , new oem exact same issue and yes its the sensor with two pins i am replacing.

i am not giving up on fixing this issue but anyway have a 94 ss has new rad, cap , thermostat, cts , flush , and lastly a wrx coolant tank. Car never overheats temp guage always just under the middle. fans cycle when warned up as long as i dont start driving around at a steady speed as it seems. When the fans run constantly i just restart the car and they cycle again and yes i tried the fan relays. Last thing i need to know is how the fans relate to the vss. If lets say there is no input momentarily is it possible it failsafes the fans to stay on ? No cel but i do get a duty c code from the tcu sometimes possibly related. I need this fixed i cant stand it !

did they atleast check the charge ? If the computer sees a low charge maybe it wont let it run till the car is restarted then repeats.

duty solenoid c.

thats what i figured not sure why i have the code. Going to look through the wiring maybe the po wired 12v right to the solenoid.

lol no this car stays auto i just get a stick wrx Perfect thanks can the solenoid cause no awd to ?

Hi, need to verify something. If there are those slots on the clutch drum as I have seen in a few torque bind threads. Can the slots also cause a delay in AWD or NO awd? If the shaft going to the back of the transfer case broke would there definitely be some sort of noise with the front wheel slipping? Is it pretty well extremely unlikely it broke? I have a duty solenoid c code on my 94 SS. And I have a parts tranny. I am thinking I will swap over the good duty solenoid and file the slots if there are any. Any other suggestions and opiniosn would be great. Already tried changing the fluid like 5 times btw lol.