ericem

Tomorrow ill work on it! I will probably drain the oil bought a 4L jub of tranny fluid. Thanks guys!

actualy makes sence to assume at 100k the belt was done. The bolt wouldn't just back off. If anything would be less likely to fall off lol. but if fairtax is right maybe the roads are to rough?!

Well you just need to remove the axles and take apart the axles to replace the boot. As long as there isn't any unusual play or noise in the shaft just clean it up, regrease and reboot. Topic has been covered. You could also just get some reman axles or some GOOD rear axles. Regardless you can probably drive for a while like that as the rear's don't move nearly as much as the fronts.

It actually wore out the crankshaft?! Even if the tip was a bit worn it could still work as long as it has a good key and a new pulley. The bolt should support it pretty straight. Pretty crazy. Sad to hear though Is your car 2.2l? I am sure you can source another one easily and for cheap.

Nice buy there rare vans thats for sure. Make sure it has a alarm of some sort. My friend is a huge fan of the safari's they can last long. He had 2 AWD safari's and both got stolen because people are looking for AWD part vans supposedly.

Well heres the thing when was the last timing belt done?? This has happened to many people including myself. I just went to the dealer and bought a new one. Was like $200 and bought the key. All it involves is removing the belts. Loosening the bolt (for you its easy leave it in 5th with parking brake on) and removing the pulley. Then get some pliers and really try your best to yank out the keyway. It will be mangled but will come out with some good linesmens or even um channel locks etc. Once out clean up some debree with oil. Then push in the new key, put on the new pulley. And tighten the bolt to 120-140ft-lbs. Be sure to clean the bolt threads good to. I usually just wiped them clean, then put a bit of motor oil on the bolt threads so it spins nicely. Then put back the accessory belts. What I am saying is its a very easy job and just to go to your local dealer and get the parts! Also compare prices to like genuine subaru parts and the dealer they can usually price match. Good luck!

Just wondering my tranny doesn't seem like it is grabbing initially . Planning a tranny swap but was wondering. I put like 5L of tranny fluid last time I did a oil change. Actually maybe more. Is that to much? I couldn't remember even checking the dipstick now that I think about it. What do you guys think? Its a 94 legacy turbo btw. Thanks! Kind of wanted to save the tranny if I could and just replace the rear housing and clutches since it would be alot cheaper then replacing the whole tranny, but what has to be done has to be done!

Your on the right track. Probably a good idea to do a timing belt change including the idlers to as the stock belt is due at 60k. For the tranny seems now adays that leaving original tranny fluid if it shifts fine is better then changing it creating a problem especially if it looks darker then usual. But changing the front and rear diff fluid is a good idea. Remember the front diff dipstick is on the passenger side of the tranny Sounds like a good deal take some pics too!

only issue im aware of is if the climate control and radio is one piece there is intermittent failure but not very common. Other wise solid !

With a AWD car it is probably MORE important to run 4 snow tires during winter months since there isn't much you can do if you slide out, like if you gun it you will slide more, or hit the brakes, well if you hit the brakes the abs could guide the vehicle back straight. Regardless, AWD and Winter tires makes for a awesome fun winter!!

Then everyones suggestion will be a tranny fluid change

ya the solenoids will buzz as you describe. What colour was the fluid? I would recommend a tranny fluid change, but I would like to wait from feedback from someone to tell you if there is a external tranny filter on your car but I doubt it. Some people have used the Trans-x tranny additive with good luck and everything fixed itself.

Sounds like you got another bad MAF! i am pretty sure there was a bulletin of some sort about the MAF's failing.

Wouldn't a air leak do the exact opposite of reving up since it is unmetered air?

Where does it idle in P compared to D? Have you done a full tune up. Everyone here will ask you this lol. Like spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, PCV valve. Also try going over ALL hoses make sure nothing is disconnected. Funny you say it was fine after a MAF change but in order to do that certain things would need to be removed. Id try cleaning the throttle body too and IAC valve just by spraying some cleaner down the hose not sure which hose is the IAC on your car though.

As suggested take it apart...

what

Yes rustproof your car, rear quarters and under body and usually victims of large amounts of rust over time. Rust proofing along with cleaning fender areas is a good idea to protect your car from rusting. I like going through carwashes like every week, the ones with underspray.

Put a bottle of seafoam in the oil and drive it around keeping the rpm's around 4k for a bit like go on the highway for 10mins and keep the gear down. Drain a bit of oil first to just incase. Then when you get home the noise should be gone, and you can change the oil.

maybe a bad solenoid or a leak somewhere else along the lines. Im going to check mine to as i have a similar sound!

they definitely have to pull out the thermostat as mentioned bleed out the air from the system regardless the shop should do this for you.

Either way. You could also try simply removing it yourself and spraying everything down with electronic or contact cleaner and seeing if it works.

hit it in a way that causes no physical damage or blow some compressed air via cd gap.

Ok perfect thanks!

Yes its important that you have 4 of the same brand and size of tires and yes to the front diff being together with the tranny uses the same oil. Welcome to the AWD world hehe.