ericem

lol no it was full before just after replacing the thermostat took more coolant then what i drained and it sucked some overflow. Works good after i bleed it but if i let it cool then drive for a while temps cruising now are at 190f but at idle doesnt always cool the engine just blows cold air. Possibly sucking air via overflow lines when cooling ?

Well car cooled down and sucked some of the overflow and the coolant tank was still somewhat low. Filled it up, reset the ecu for kicks, and let it idle till the fans turned on. The fans ran for 7 seconds, then shut off. Then I shut off the motor. I will leave it for another 30 mins then I will go for a drive.

idle fans off lights off 13.5v. Fans on or lights low 12's.

AC isn't working now my dad needs to hook up his gauges. Never though off the meat temp guage good idea. No CEL's everything runs fine, has new ngk coppers gapped to .28 (boosted the engine much higher now). Alternator sucks, can't keepup with fans and lights on, but the ecu bumps the idle till it hits high 12 volt range. Will replace it ASAP with a turbo alternator as I heard they are different amps and have a different temperature cut out.

Yes there are two sensors one for guage one for ECU. Tried the thermostat without a jiggle valve. Works kind of on and off. I think it needs more coolant. I will wait till it cools then remove the rad cap. Just wondering though. Why doesn't the overflow tank level change at all comparing hot and cold?! I always notice this yet never figured out why only this car is like this. Fans were working perfectly then I shut it off when for a drive were still working perfectly then it went to a point where temps would stay around 190F driving and at idle with fans on couldn't bring temps down, then other times temps went down no problems at idle. I can hear some swooshing in the heatercore soo still some air thats for sure. So better but not perfect. I wonder if the headgasket is possibly leaking when the engine is dead dead cold?

Oh buy I think there is serious confusion here. The rad is brand new, thermostat brand new, Coolant temperature sensor the red one with 2 pins brand new alots of hoses have been replaced, and it has a brand new radiator cap. All parts I use are OEM. Lets step back If I drive the car around and stop. I have my computer plugged in keep in mind. I can monitor the temperature. It stays RIGHT at 203+ and goes as high at 217F with the fans on. I can leave it idling for as much as 1 hour and the termperature is still at 200+F. The fans turn off at 189F. So if the car is running for a VERY long period, IGNITION ON, ENGINE RUNNING, at idle or driving and it can not bring the temperature down it makes no sense to me. The thermostat opens fully at 178F, YET it can not bring it down to anywhere below 200F with the fans running and cold air blowing tells me coolant is not circulating the the upper rad hose is very hot and the bottom hose is very cold. So this is NOT normal, it is VERY ANNOYING listening to your fans running, and it needs to be fixed. There are times where the fans cycle just great and the UPPER and LOWER rad hose is warm which is how it SHOULD be ALL the time.

It just annoys the crap out of me because everytime I get out of the car the fans are running steady. It needs to go below 189F in order to cycle off the fans and the thermostat opens at around 170F fully. I can't see why running for such a long time and the fans still not cycling. I am not saying the thermostats suck, but if me removing the valve makes the fans cycle I am happy. I can't stand getting out of my car or parking and talking to someone with the engine on momentarily with the fans on high speed LOL!! I will blow the ************ing car up with dynomite if I do not fix this!! Going to replace hose and try this thermostat without the jiggle valve, but won't drill extra holes.

well heres the thing i replaced it just to see if it would do anything with no luck. I have a cable i bought they are on revtronix google it has a app. Temp inter at 200s and the fan is blowing cold air. Which tells me the thermostat is closed. Have tried bleeding the system so many times its insane. Sometimes i have gotten out and the fans would turn on run for 10seconds shut off yet 99% of the time no dice.

have replaced the thermostat rad cap rad hoses no dice and cts. No signs of headgasket never overheats so i figure might as well try swapping the thermostat but without the jigle valve.

Hey guys I am looking at the thermostat and wondering about the little floating valve as it seems for air. My car just doesn't seem to always have the fans cycling and the temps stay in teh 203 F range according to the ECU. Tried temp sensors etc. Thinking i will replace the thermostat with another one I have and remove that little floating valve and drill 2 more holes and put the thermostat so the holes are facing up (turbo car thermostat goes in from front). See if this fixes the problem. I will probably do a motor rebuild or swap later for now hopefully this is a good enough fix. What do you think?? Any idea if maybe a turbo car has a different thermostat? yet I doubt as SOMETIMES car the works 100% and temps come down to 190F range while pressurized with no issues. Its a 94 SS.

check out legacygt forums.

not really that flimsy but really why risk it? There are better places to jack it up by.

perfect!! check out your incar cabin filter!!

There is no EGR on your car. You probably need a new ECU coolant temp sensor or your IAC valve needs to be cleaned.

I have no clue where to start or what diagram to look at. It is doing it more often. It did it this morning. I really need to figure this out before complete failure in the winter. I just again hit the fuse panel on the floor then everything came back to life.

Id look at it like this. If you get a older Subaru with a 2.5L like the range your looking at. Spare the extra $1000-1500 for headgasket and timing belt "maintenance". So be sure to bargain and look for a good deal. Having a really good body is important too. Look around the under carriage as well for rust and rubber (axle boots, rack etc)

Guys any other ideas? Seems to fix the issue if I kick around the little plastic panel on the floor on the driver side. Anything there that would cause these items to not work? It is really bothering me as I am afraid it might completely fail and then I would be screwed obviously... It comes and goes. Seems to happen more after taking a long trip with the car, then the following day after a few short trips it does it. Always at the same time HVAC does not work, abs light on, no shift.

Did you try replacing the rad cap btw??

Just wondering but how will fluid affect when the car shifts btw? lol.

Sounds like my car................. Probably just a TPS that needs to be setup again. Search TPS or Throttle Position Sensor.

Ok so story of my life need to get this straightened out lol. Lets review what has been done. 3 temp sensors now on a brand new OEM temp sensor. Tried 2 thermostats. Tried 2 rad caps. Tried a new rad. Recently swapped the turbo, replaced rear cam support seals the 2 red and 1 black seal. Tried a wrx coolant tank. What else is left?! Yes let me guess headgasket. So today after driving for a while opened the door and noticed the fans were off. Popped the hood fans came on for a good 15 seconds awesome! What I noticed was the upper rad hose didn't feel pressurized well nearly as pressurized as it usually is! What does this tell me? Also the overflow was at a higher level then normal. What is the damn issue!!

sounds like a bad coil to me yet you say there is spark ?

Well I tracked the car with the tranny overfilled lol. Beat the crap out of it. Regardless the AWD doesn't work on this tranny and it seems I would be better off using the whole tranny then swapping parts.

Changed the fluid! Tranny is definitely quiet again and has nice shifts. Yet if I floor it rolling at above 60 km/h will rev to almost 6k then start to grab. Sometimes won't do it. Regardless will drive for a week. If problems are still there going to swap the whole tranny with a good one.

nice i liked the outback actually. The body seemed right for a SUV not on a Legacy though. Very roomy lots of features. Good job subaru! Not bad price wise either!!