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ericem

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Everything posted by ericem

  1. It is on the driveside. You need to remove that piece that covers all the area where the wires are. Let me find a pic.
  2. Actually makes sense for it to be a air bubble because when you rev up every so often it can still pull coolant, but the pump spinning at a constant rate would have more issues with air bubbles.
  3. Wow those valves collided pretty good with the pistons At first I was like WOOT a prize, oh, dang lol.
  4. It might have some play by now, but otherwise if it breaks it will not be a safety hazzard but the car will be a bit more jelloy in the turns.
  5. That's odd check online pricing for the same parts OEM. Dealers should be able to match. The coolant temp OEM is $40 here in Canada, so in USA should be $25. https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html
  6. Sorry to hear Sucks to see. Did it damage the rear quarter significantly? Like did it buckle? That does appear like a noticeable amount of damage and not sure how the insurance company wants to look at it. Sadly looks like a write off, but if it does drive straight you could just buy it back for the price of scrap metal and replace the hatch, bumper and tail light and it would look plenty fine I am sure.
  7. hmm, did you touch any of the oil lines? With stage 2 you would have turned up the boost, and possibly the weak td04 blew. Check out nasioc for more info on your issue and possibly make a thread if you haven't already.
  8. Hmm, I don't think I had enough oil. When I checked this morning on a cold start, I see like a thin line, then there is a thick line. I am thinking the other line is from oil splashing, and the other one is the real line! So it appears the transmission is very low still hmm. I will get another jug of oil, I think it is 1L short.
  9. I haven't even checked. I am just saying it makes ticking sounds. I thought it was a exhaust leak because it is sort of popping like. Rolled under the car and noticed it was the transmission almost sounds like a solenoid flickering.
  10. Forgot to add the transmission makes ticking sounds. Any idea wtf is going on there? No codes stored BTW!
  11. I have a replacement ready just didn't feel like replacing the tranny, but it realistically doesn't seem like a difficult job. Guess I can't win, original tranny had no awd, added lucas, lost 2nd then got back 2nd and lost 3rd and 4th of course while I was on the highway Put this tranny in have all 4 gears and awd with slight delay, yet no lockup on the highway = crappy fuel economy on the highway.
  12. Hoping that trans-x will swell a leaking seal, allowing it to build pressure again for a steady time. It's just odd how it will lock up for a bit, then after that bit there is no lockup till the car sits and it goes for a drive on the highway. The oil pan was dented to the point where the pickup made a perfect square indent in the pan indicating it was restricting flow, and my mechanic believes it damaged something.
  13. Still no workie lol. Next will try some trans-x. If that is a no go, going to replace the tranny
  14. Just drive the vehicle, if you notice temps creeping put it in N and rev the motor to get the coolant circulating. The dealership should be able to diagnose the headgasket issue no problem as long as you don't mind dishing out $1000-2500 to do the job and usually at the same time you would want to replace more then the headgasket like the timing belt, water pump etc. When the engine is cool, remove the rad cap and make sure it is full of coolant. For a 60km drive it should be fine.
  15. Found the FSM appears that 1 solenoid is the one for lockup. That bastard is coming out tomorrow
  16. Just a update. When I removed the oil pan I could obviously see that the pickup has been hitting the pan. Although no other damage. Replaced the sensor for the hell of it. Seems the same though and still no lockup on the highway. It locked up one time like usual for the few seconds or so, and I can be jumping into boost etc without it slipping, then while crusing steadily jumps out of lockup! So confused, what the heck is the issue? Could it actually be the torque converter ? Why would it work one time? I checked out all the bolts nothing loose. There is 1 solenoid I can see but I don't think the solenoid is for lockup. Any other ideas as to what is creating this issue?
  17. Yes! Removing the old gasket was a REALL pain in the rump roast especially working with the car just on jack stands. With some broken transmission mounts we were able to use them as a spot to hit with a hammer. On my transmission in my 94 SS the awd not working issue turned out to be that clutch housing that attaches to the shaft as mentioned. Although most likely this happens if you have been driving with torque bind.
  18. Well with first gen legacy's you jab the pedal and the power light kicks on and it downshifts with even extremely light throttle. Then again I have driven a similar vehicle and it downshifted pretty easy. Possibly look at the Throttle Position Sensor?
  19. I assume it is auto? Me and my friend had a similar issue turned out to be the clutch was just worn out. Here are some pics did the job with the tranny in the car, involves dropping the exhaust, driveshaft, crossmember ( BE sure to support the tranny ahead of time as it will drop to low keep the transmission in it's natural position). Worn clutch see the gap? Newer used one no gap well barely Replaced solenoid, new gaskets, valve body, and there is a tiny filter.
  20. Your suppost to seat the torque converter on the transmission first then mount the engine.
  21. I do not believe I have went to see a single 97-99 Legacy gt with a 2.5L that did not have signs or most definitely HAD a bad headgasket. Just sucks! What's amazing is I feel no coolant in the upper hose and there overflow is bubbling yet no overheating? How the heck? Does it require alot more driving to get it to overheat. i never said anything to the owners I just know and I am well aware of headgasket issues in the future. Just didn't think it was so frequent!
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