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Everything posted by ericem
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hey guys, I replaced my oil pan and used RTV to seal it. Now I do not see any oil, or atleast a noticeable amount around the outer edges, but right where the dipstick part goes in I see oil around it. I did not replace the o-rings on that line. Is it possibly it is leaking out of that? I do have a oil pump leak, but it appears to be a small leak.
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haha I hear ya my friend has a new kia forte SX 6 speed and he said he wishes alot of times he had a auto just because of so much traffic. I find the auto works well Check out revtronix on google. They have a stage 1 and stage 2 chip that goes in the ecu that tunes the boost control solenoid, fuel trims etc etc. I at one point had the stage 2 at 17 psi with a td04 and 06 wrx intercooler on a stock auto tranny. Worked well for a year but the tranny lost all the gears, and i found alot of boost leaks developed because of the crappy intake setup i made. So I am now back to stock and put a working transmission in. I purchased a stage 1 chip this time around which works with everything stock and it will be at 13psi vs stock 8 and get 10% better fuel economy.
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I bought one at Napa and it worked fine. It is a cheap sensor either way regardless of whether you get it at the dealer or at a auto parts chain. Also I did remove the alternator to gain my room, but I am sure there is a way to get in there with a wrench. Not difficult to remove the alternator. Actually I think I just took off the belt, and tilted mine up.
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Well heres a update started car and noticed oil dripping steady. Turns out when I swapped the drivetrain forgot to tighten the clamps for the cooler lines and was dripping down the crossmember. Tighened clamps washed oil underneath. Seems good but there is still a oil leak. I did a oil change motor sounds better. Less oil leaks too I hope with 5w-40. Will check out that pcv valve since the motor did sit for a bit. Thanks!
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Thanks for the replies, definitely see oil from the timing covers and I guess when driving down the highway for hours it was dripping along a bunch of things. It appears I overfilled my oil alot. Possibly creating a issue? Going to drain a bit of oil, then do a oil change when it gets warmer. Rotella T 5w-40 was amazing oil this gtx crap sucks on cold starts it loud engine doesn't sound nearly as happy as it did on 5w-40 synthetic.
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So car is driving great and all but I do not like to see drops of oil in my driveway. If i look below i usually see a tiny bit of oil on the front of the oil pan. Now I see so much oil that the driver side control arm is coated in oil and the whole rack and crossmember look to be completely covered in oil hmmmmm. Recently weather has been -20C without windchill. Possibly started leaking large amounts when cold then once warmed up stops leaking? I will try and role myself under the car although any possible theories? It's a 94 legacy turbo. Replaced valve cover gaskets, and rear cam support gaskets. Everything else left at w/e the previous owner left it. Plan for spring timing belt, pump, cam, crank, oil pump seals.
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Hey guys, I took this drivetrain from a 92 legacy turbo wagon and put it in my 94 legacy turbo sedan. Now in the wagon had the same problem keep in mind, and I have tried swapping TCU's. So when I am on the highway 4th gear, it will lock up for a minute or so, then it will stay unlocked the rest of the drive. If you stop and restart the car will work repeat, lockup for a minute on the highway then unlock. So RPM's are obviously higher because of this and I get ************ty highway fuel economy of course. Now if I look at the oil pan, there is a nice big dent and after looking at some FSM's it appears right where the dent is, the lockup solenoid is there. Possibly got hit and damaged so can not hold pressure for long period? What are your thoughts? Consider I have done a tranny fluid change as well I am going to be pulling the pan ASAP to replace with a non dented one, and I have 2 parts tranny's so if I see a damaged valve body or something I can replace the part. So main question is, dented pan creating a issue? or probably more serious? Keep in mind it will lockup momentarily.
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I would get another 2.5 or a Ej22T and use heads that are compatible with your stock ecu electronically. Then get a td04 and just run 5-10psi. It will be plenty fast. You can even run N/A heads on a Ej22T if you wanted and make plenty of power without running into many issues, but REALISTICALLY the best option is to swap over all the wiring and run a turbo motor with turbo heads. It will be pricey.