ericem

True.

Dead VSS or loose connection?

hey guys, I replaced my oil pan and used RTV to seal it. Now I do not see any oil, or atleast a noticeable amount around the outer edges, but right where the dipstick part goes in I see oil around it. I did not replace the o-rings on that line. Is it possibly it is leaking out of that? I do have a oil pump leak, but it appears to be a small leak.

Best thing to do is make sure when you wash the engine bay to cover the alternator and no spray all sorts of cleaners all over like I did which ended up frying my alternator when I took a drive downtown and had to drive home at night with no lights, wipers, defrost, radio on a foggy rainy night.

haha I hear ya my friend has a new kia forte SX 6 speed and he said he wishes alot of times he had a auto just because of so much traffic. I find the auto works well Check out revtronix on google. They have a stage 1 and stage 2 chip that goes in the ecu that tunes the boost control solenoid, fuel trims etc etc. I at one point had the stage 2 at 17 psi with a td04 and 06 wrx intercooler on a stock auto tranny. Worked well for a year but the tranny lost all the gears, and i found alot of boost leaks developed because of the crappy intake setup i made. So I am now back to stock and put a working transmission in. I purchased a stage 1 chip this time around which works with everything stock and it will be at 13psi vs stock 8 and get 10% better fuel economy.

I wish! auto non lsd. 91 is the only year with a LSD lucky guy. With my car I can definitely feel I need a LSD just with a auto. If I gun it on asphalt in a turn I can get 1 rear wheel to spin pretty easy. Hopefully this spring I will do a 5spd swap.

Your car might still be under warrenty with 68k miles just need some proof saying that you used that coolant conditioner. Around here I have seen headgasket repair at as low as $1200 I am sure you can find the same deal there if cheaper.

Nice what year is it? Here is mine currently when I bought it had the 5 spokes but I prefer these.

when i bought my sensor it already had something red on the threads.

I bought one at Napa and it worked fine. It is a cheap sensor either way regardless of whether you get it at the dealer or at a auto parts chain. Also I did remove the alternator to gain my room, but I am sure there is a way to get in there with a wrench. Not difficult to remove the alternator. Actually I think I just took off the belt, and tilted mine up.

and NGK!

That's messed. Find some long narrow pliers that can get in there and get a good grip on it. Should pop out. Or even use a pick or claw although it will probably break up parts of the rubber.

Well heres a update started car and noticed oil dripping steady. Turns out when I swapped the drivetrain forgot to tighten the clamps for the cooler lines and was dripping down the crossmember. Tighened clamps washed oil underneath. Seems good but there is still a oil leak. I did a oil change motor sounds better. Less oil leaks too I hope with 5w-40. Will check out that pcv valve since the motor did sit for a bit. Thanks!

Thanks for the replies, definitely see oil from the timing covers and I guess when driving down the highway for hours it was dripping along a bunch of things. It appears I overfilled my oil alot. Possibly creating a issue? Going to drain a bit of oil, then do a oil change when it gets warmer. Rotella T 5w-40 was amazing oil this gtx crap sucks on cold starts it loud engine doesn't sound nearly as happy as it did on 5w-40 synthetic.

correct

So car is driving great and all but I do not like to see drops of oil in my driveway. If i look below i usually see a tiny bit of oil on the front of the oil pan. Now I see so much oil that the driver side control arm is coated in oil and the whole rack and crossmember look to be completely covered in oil hmmmmm. Recently weather has been -20C without windchill. Possibly started leaking large amounts when cold then once warmed up stops leaking? I will try and role myself under the car although any possible theories? It's a 94 legacy turbo. Replaced valve cover gaskets, and rear cam support gaskets. Everything else left at w/e the previous owner left it. Plan for spring timing belt, pump, cam, crank, oil pump seals.

Ya temp sensor could definitely be a issue. I will go over everything thanks for the advice. Oh and no trouble codes.

Hey guys, I took this drivetrain from a 92 legacy turbo wagon and put it in my 94 legacy turbo sedan. Now in the wagon had the same problem keep in mind, and I have tried swapping TCU's. So when I am on the highway 4th gear, it will lock up for a minute or so, then it will stay unlocked the rest of the drive. If you stop and restart the car will work repeat, lockup for a minute on the highway then unlock. So RPM's are obviously higher because of this and I get ************ty highway fuel economy of course. Now if I look at the oil pan, there is a nice big dent and after looking at some FSM's it appears right where the dent is, the lockup solenoid is there. Possibly got hit and damaged so can not hold pressure for long period? What are your thoughts? Consider I have done a tranny fluid change as well I am going to be pulling the pan ASAP to replace with a non dented one, and I have 2 parts tranny's so if I see a damaged valve body or something I can replace the part. So main question is, dented pan creating a issue? or probably more serious? Keep in mind it will lockup momentarily.

Check out legacycentral should work just fine. You can even run N/A cams.

Nice, enjoy! What dealer did you visit?

Also keep in mind N/A ej22 has thicker cylinder walls then a new STi motor haha. So boosting a n/a ej22 block with turbo heads is a awesome idea as stated by the 11.9

I would get another 2.5 or a Ej22T and use heads that are compatible with your stock ecu electronically. Then get a td04 and just run 5-10psi. It will be plenty fast. You can even run N/A heads on a Ej22T if you wanted and make plenty of power without running into many issues, but REALISTICALLY the best option is to swap over all the wiring and run a turbo motor with turbo heads. It will be pricey.

It's a used motor so I have no history. It's not to bad ill just leave it till its warmer then ill overhaul everything.

You know those two huge allen key plugs when you look at the bottom of the engine that are part of the oil pump?

Hey guys, just wondering do they sometimes leak?? I see oil coming out of one, but it might just be my oil pump itself leaking down doesn't seem like it though. Any ideas don't feel like pulling the belt and replacing the gaskets till spring.