ericem

What's your location? Funny my previous tranny had a similar sound. When I went to drain the fluids before removing the tranny, i found a good couple inches worth of a dipstick attached to the magnet for the front diff that was definitely shredded..... Either way even if you fix the rear transfer case which is creating torque bind, still need a new tranny as the front diff might be damaged. Probably better off at this point to go to another shop, even a dealership to be honest...

Could he possibly be hoping one may locate his car??

Hmm, how important do you think the TPS is? I am thinking about adjusting it tomorrow. Could it possibly be affecting fuel economy? I just don't like how my exhaust is so thick with carbon, and when I hit boost doesn't really go much faster. On cold days it's great though!

Hey how greatly can the o2 sensor affect performance? When is the o2 sensor's input mainly being used? How does exhaust temperature affect it's readings?

Why not go to the dealership and just get oem. Either way does the fuel hose really deteriorate? Is it really necessary to replace?

Hey guys, is there a sensor that won't allow the a/c compressor to turn on when its cold outside? When it rains I want the a/c to turn on for defrost. On warm, hot days it always works though perfectly, and freezing cold. Maybe I didn't fill up the a/c fully? My dad was asking me for a a/c diagram showing what electrical sensors and switches there are that can disable the a/c. Also consider when I push the a/c button when it doesn't works the fans are not turning on so I don't think its the pressure switch tripping. It's a 94 legacy turbo btw and uses r134a refrigerant.

As long as the system was not opened it should be fine and not need a vacuum, but ya r134a should not be mixed. Don't they sell R12A or R22A which is compatible with r12?? We have it here and on my old wagon I put the stop leak and the r12a or r22a can't remember which one, but it worked great for over a year with no leaks and it was the coldest it has ever been.

Should be a good buy, as long as it has coolant and oil, and the engine seems pretty smooth its good. Maybe cold you might hear ticking from the HLA's but don't misinterpret it as rod knock. 5spd swap is pretty easy just need to ground a pin to tell the ecu to work for a 5spd and you can then remove the tcu. Just need to wire up a few switchs, reverse, clutch etc otherwise the rest of the parts will just bolt in. EJ22T is closed deck and fares up as the strongest subaru motor built. Has a little vf11 but it responds nicely for how small it is. If you buy it maybe do a tune up, plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, oil change, and replace the knock sensor if it appears to be cracked as it will detune the performance.

What happened to your motor?

Did you just get warned or fined?

Try this. To remove that whole skirt on the top part. Need to remove the trim around the radio, there are two screws between where the ash tray is, and two behind the cup holder. After that is out of the way, there is a screw above teh climate control, a screw behind the cover where the air suspension or fog light switch would be, but its a blank cover, remove the defrost, cruise control switch and mirror switch they just push out or pull out, then you will see more screws, there is 2 screws above the gauge cluster. Then set your steering wheel to the lowest posistion so adjust the angle with the lever on the bottom of the steering column. Then flex the dash up so you can pull the trim piece forward and out of the way. The rest should be straight forward, remove the wires for various items and remove the cluster screws after the trim is out of the way, then connectors going into the cluster, and the speedometer cable will slide out of place. When putting everything together make sure all the connectors are hooked up, and that the speedometer cable lines up. Test all the lights to make sure it is working for before reassembling. If you are pulling everything apart, why not just buy brand new bulbs at the dealer? Atleast the whole dash will be nicely lit up, and it will be noticeably brighter. I did it and it looks very nice at night and you shouldn't have to worry for another 10+ years.

Don't feel you need to look at an older subie to get something reliable. All the new stuff is pretty decent. Only doubt is cvt transmission and electronic parking brake.

Pretty sure it does not.

I don't think it's a axle. My axles have some play very very minimal though i mean in the rear. I would assume it is the wheel or the hub itself creating the issue if you can indeed physically see the rim not rolling square.

If you put the fuse in and you still have torque bind it definitely tells you the solenoid is indeed DEAD.

Yes, did you unplug any harness? Remove ground etc?

Do you drive a Nissan Titan by any chance? lol.

I guess you could use a wrench but don't break it lol. Maybe try first hitting with your hand, then trying to crank.

MAF sensor is the first sensor on the intake after the air filter. Hit it with something and see if it starts up. Better yet what year is the car? What motor?

Did you tune it up with ngk spark plugs, nkg or oem wires, new fuel filter, verify if fuel pump is working?? Another possibility is the MAF sensor, try hitting it and see if it fires up actually.

Nice looks pretty clean, odd how it has a N/A front bumper. Turbo front end:

Try and find this Trans-x stuff. http://www.amazon.com/Products-Trans-X-Automatic-Transmission-Steering/dp/B00030BFFG

Makes complete sense. People are just being extra cautious on advice, but it does not make sense that the gasket would be garbage unless as mentioned it hit full torque.

Can the turbo leak coolant?

Hmm, sounds like you need to cut out part of the chassis to access the bolt, then you can put on a new nut and weld it into place and then oil spay inside the area and weld back on the piece you cut out.