ericem

Internal or external leak?

Ya I guess your right, I will continue to beat the crap out of this auto 16psi next week.

Ones from a wrx should fit pretty good. So try out w/e subaru mats they have and see which fit best.

Probably easier to just replace the tranny the trannies don't fail often either.

This has been annoying me for a while all my trannies do this but I really hate it. Wondering if this is a issue regarding the throttle position sensor or the engine isn't outputting enough power. Were talking about a 94 Legacy Turbo auto. The torque converter does lockup high, but between the 2-3k rpm range when the TC is not locked can't really accelerate it's just a free rev then I have to jump into boost it gets very annoying. Really looking forward to a 5MT swap soon! Suggestions as to what causes this would be awesome. I am thinking it might be the motor not outputting enough power for issues such as BPV not closing, vacuum boost leaks etc etc. Right now the car has been fully tuned up (plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, cleaned MAF, tried TD04 with 06 IC). Just annoying how it seems difficult to maintain speed. Wondering how the MAF sensor could affect this as well as I think it got worse when I touched the MAF sensor (might have dropped it as well).

Why not just buy the gasket? They do sell a gasket for the transmission oil pan and there is a reason for this.

I drained the fluid looked fine a bit dark and came out like water if it matters? Put in some new stuff seems like it's better also seems like the awd has less delay if any. Also going into reverse it engages faster etc etc. SO far so good! It is sooo damn difficult to read the dipstick though! I still think it needs more but I don't think I will ever be 100% happy unless I know the dipstick is showing correctly. I am doing it with the car on level ground engine running. Problem is there is parts were it is solid red, and then nothing, thin line, its hard to tell what level it is actually at!

Rad is pretty new like year old?

Hmm, oh and yes it is auto and I am talking about the transmission oil not the front diff going to go outside and check the front diff oil.

Hey guys, I am thinking the worst, and no I am not looking at my differential dipstick. I thought it would be either red or black, no yellow though... Either way smells like tranny fluid and doesn't smell burnt. I am going to get some tranny fluid and do a oil change I didn't even think to check my diff fluid. It is possible for the diff fluid to mix with transmision right? Car is 94 SS on the 3rd tranny

It's a sedan the tires are definitely very wide and with the run flats the sidewallls are SOLID! Going to replace all the links in the rear with newer wrx parts, and the steering rack bushings. Then go for alignment. I hear you I am now running td04 with 06 ic even at stock boost if I gun it at times I really need to be ready. ESPECIALLY when it rains! Took pic before I installed the rear h r springs if some people are wondering.

Hey guys, this problem was alot more significant after I changed to 17" rims with low profile tires and they are run flats. So far what has been replaced ball joints, struts are pretty new(GR2), top hats(wrx), springs (hr), rear control arm lateral bushings (STi). I have to still get a alignment but how important are the rear links and there bushings? The rear ones look pretty bad pretty much all the bushings for every link. Could the rear cause the front to pull all over the road? Also have poly steering rack bushings. Any advice? It is pretty annoying this issue. Car is a 94 Legacy Turbo.

The inner cv always had play I find on the stub itself. If you have noises check suspension like ball joints.

Could be waterpump had the same sound. After a month or so waterpump seized. Long story short did a waterpump, oil pump, timing belt and idlers in a random parking lot. Those cars can go a very very long time. So if the body is good condition and all it needs is maintenance parts should be solid.

yup

Nope here you go! http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html

I remember doing a clutch job on a 04 wrx was going nuts trying to seperate it. Spent a good 3-4 hours!!!!!!! Then my friend looked into it and said to remove the clutch fork luckily the screw used to hold one of the covers worked and the shaft came out no issue. When I put it back I lubricated everything.

Hmm that's true. Only time I had enough of a oil leak that I cared was when it was dripping from the oil pump o-ring......

Sure it's not your exhaust squeaking? Mine does the same thing...

Wipe the sight glass on the drier and when the a/c turns on see if there are bubbles. There should be minimal to no bubbles.

Do you turn the cap till it clicks? Also do you continue filling AFTER it clicks?

Wait you won't have heads ?

Have you checked the oil? Was it towed to a mechanic any diagnosis?

Technically any N/A SOHC block SHOULD be fine. Just preferably ej25. I am sure a ej22 could work though.

I had a friend with a 99 forester he bought it with the engine knocking. I don't recall if it was down on power, I do remember it idled perfectly though. So we removed the timing covers and found the tensioner had broke and it was bouncing around and of course there was no tension on the belt. He drove the car for a week like this! Replaced the idler or tensioner and it was all fine! Might want to look into checking out the timing belt.