ericem

Honest to god you should look under my 93 legacy with 330k all original seals and hoses. haha, it is basically a bit sludge ball on the bottom. Still didn't catch on fire though LOL! Car is going to the scrapper though so won't have a chance to further investigate, but the heart and muscle will hopefully be going towards another Legacy but rust free. I would not be worried, it will just burn off unless it is pouring out steady, don't loose any sleep

Best bet, get a hose and a friend. Stay inside the car while while someone sprays in various areas why you wait to see if water starts dripping.

I would not be to worried about it. There are many people who probably went as far as 150,000 EVEN 200,000 on the original belt. It is just a matter of risk. Do the coolant flush, thermostat, and rad cap change all at once if you really think it is neccesary. I think age is more important then mileage with coolant.

The front's should be the same, not 100% sure about the rears. I would have sworn it is the same though. Just don't take my word for it check out legacycentral for more info.

EXACTLY same problem with my car. Mine is a 94 SS but I put new brake pads. I noticed the issue right after the caliper seized. When I replaced it, I got the rotor cut, and I sanded the pads since they were a tad bit glazed. After driving for a bit started doing exactly the same thing. It is extremely annoying!!!! I suggest you make sure the sliders are fine and the pads are not glazed. Honestly I think I will get some nice ceramic pads. There was one brand I think it was ATE they were great ceramic pads. Extremely quiet, minimal to no wear after 30,000km, extremely grippy, and best thing was little brake dust!! PS: Welcome to USMB!!

Put it in 5th gear. If your clutch is slipping you have a new thing that has to be replaced. There is a access hole under the TB you will see a little rubber cap. 100-140ft-lbs should hold. Did you put a bit of oil on the threads to?

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ Look at the timing belt FSM set all the sprockets to the correct marks and put the idlers and tensioners in the order shown. It is very easy :s

Maybe you have a TPS sensor issue. Might need to be readjusted.

I run 91 octane and always have. Also has a new knock sensor! I am going to go with the MAF sensor possibly being the issue. I find even at idle like it will be dipping sometimes and engine shivers, but when its raining, seems really nice and smooth the idle! When I pulled the MAF I accidentally touched the element at the end, although i was not sure if it was enough to damage it. I don't really have MUCH of a comparison since I cleaned it all the first day i brought the car home.

Hey guys, it seems like the motor is much smoother when it is raining or VERY humid outside. Things I have done so far, air filter, pcv, wires (not new a few months old), coil pack, plugs, CTS. Seafoamed the motor including the IAC, cleaned the intake. Everything is OEM except for the air filter.

lol don't worry about it xD main thing is he will get the message

Reattach the balljoint back to the control arm with the nut and hammer on the control arm. The pinch bolt needs to be completely removed as the balljoint is grooved so even if the bolt isn't tight it will not fall out. Also in the pinch bolt hole, spray a bunch of break away or some sort of strong rust freeing spray. Goodluck!! I would like to jump to the magic tool but the rubber seals and such would bother me.

Oh and forgot to mention I also tried replacing the top hat and it still makes the noise AND there is 0 play in the wheel...

Your story sounds EXACTLY like what happened with my 93 legacy. Except mine only did it when I made a right turn on the front passenger side. When I broke the pinch bolt head, i just left the ball joint and drove it like that till I got my 94 SS. I put the same struts from my 93 legacy on my 94 legacy and guess what it still makes the exact same noise when I turn. Ended up being the stupid strut instead. Time for KYB GR2's, or AGX's this summer. I am done with buying crappy used suspension...

Sounds most definitely like a spark plug wire issue. Did you use OEM wires? It is very important that you do and they are not expensive like $30? Also what is the airbox oring you speak off. Only other thing I would suggest after verifying the wires, is to dump a bit of seafoam via the IAC tube and just hold the throttle open so the engine doesn't die.

Did you try replacing the PCV valve just out of curiousity? Either way if the engine needs to be yanked might as well do a overhaul on the belt and a bunch of seals. Even the water pump if it makes you feel better.

Maybe you should run some seafoam in the oil for 10 minutes keeping the revs up to clean things out, then do another oil change, and suck up some seafoam via where the pcv hooks up.

In a house you need the filter though. if you don't run a filter you will blow out the motor alot sooner. i guess with our cars the motors are sealed.

Maybe your rings are actually shot? You covered the basics really. Maybe it is time for a oil change? Try a thicker oil like 10w-30 if your running 5w-30. I always thought blue smoke was oil btw :S

What about us guys with older cars that don't have cabin filters? Do our car's have a bit of a different design not allowing as much dust to enter the cabin or something

The metal gasket does go on dry though FYI. Just torque the bolts to correct spec.

Ya try those flexible magnetic grabbers. They have the claw ones to which may work if the magnetic one is not strong enough. I bought a magnetic grabber though and i am pretty sure it was strong enough to lift the weight of a extension. Sucks to hear though. Although I am wondering if you could remove the flywheel access plate under the motor? If you look closely you should find it . With my car it is missing I noticed. If I recall it is only 2 bolts. I am not sure if you can access it without removing the crossmember though.

Before next oil change I am definitely going to dump a bottle of seafoam and drive around for a bit then do a oil change.

which totally makes sense! I do not see how they would not reprime themselves unless there was something obstructing oil flow to them.

Did you already try replacing your transmission fluid?