ericem

Did you check the oil level currently? Check it on level ground. You never know could be as simple as them not filling up the oil correctly.

Get some silicone spray. First I suggest you wipe all the seals clean, THEN spray all the rubber seals, and the hinge and latch. Do this for all the doors, I guarantee you, on a below 0 F day the doors will open and close without a hitch

The car is still under warrenty right? I am sure it wouldn't hurt to go to your dealer if it REALLY bothers you. I am the same way if something isn't perfect (aka raddles, vibrations) really annoys me and I want it fixed right away.

Maybe a loose heatshield? Wait till things warm up a bit and the ice melts see how things go I guess.

Thanks for the replies. To clarify I meant 323k kilometers. Now I did just replace the PCV valve, after that there was definitely less oil leaking. I ran into a issue before with the plastic T in the PCV valve system cracking. I ordered a few spare pieces so I can pull it apart and clean it up. Somone on legacycentral said my oil could be overfilled. I looked and it is indeed overfilled. So I am going to drain it a bit and recheck on levelled ground. It is to cold for a powerwasher. I do not like the idea of going to those carwash places either. I want to powerwash the motor with the engine cool.

Here are pics. I am thinking ill try and snug up the 3 bolts? Probably make it worse? Already pretty bad anyway... I am going to put a hose clamp on the wet hose, it is more wet near the top of the hose, then the bottom. Other side isn't to bad. It's funny though my 93 legacy non turbo with 323k km doesn't leak like this, it is very clean, I believe I snugged up the bolts once actually and that stopped it now that I recall? This 94 SS has 190k km drives amazing though.

I have a 94 Legacy SS, and this is my cd player setup. I was extremely surprised to find that a CD-R 80min disc WORKS! Going to try a CD-RW next.

Hey guys. Well found a issue with the 94 SS which is probably the reason why the guy wanted to sell it, but looks to be a very minor issue. I am sitting stopped and then the interior fills up with smoke. Looks like the passenger side header as a hose hooked up above it. Seems like that is what is leaking so significantly. I don't think the valve cover seals would leak THAT bad would they?? My question is what does that hose attached to the passenger side valve cover do? I am going to stop by the dealer and get a replacement hose anyway, don't like seeing smoke inside the car..... Update: called the dealer they can not get the hose unless I know waht it goes to. Which I have no clue, because it just goes to another nipple.

I had no clue it just came out, mine was pretty hard to get out, so I figured something inside is in the way. Since it can come out like that, then you might as well try that first.

I have a 93 legacy and 94 legacy and they are both backlit on the letters and the little light. I did have the bulbs in the 93 go bad at one point though.

Just get a new one from the dealer. It's only like $20 and its pretty easy to run, just difficult getting your hand up into the area where the speedocable needs to hook up if you have big hands, going in from the bottom without removing the tach. Comes with the rubber grommet seal, heat shield, etc, fully greased up!

Not sure what I am looking at, but check your ABS unit as well for leaks.

ya lol I put it together, seemed odd, because I have pulled calipers soo many times. For the first time I noticed there is a copper washer on each side of the fitting! It was always stuck on the caliper side. That's ok I guess I know now surprised I didn't loose one? Maybe I did?

Hi. Recently I aquired a 94 SS. Been doing a few things to get it certified. Decided to paint the calipers. Will probably peel, but w/e. Anyway I noticed two washers on the bolt that holds the brake line. Is it simple on on each side of the brass fitting? Just odd because I don't recall two washers.

Did you try just lifting each wheel at a time, and checking for play just by shaking the wheel in and out and all around? That can give you idea where to look. Could be as simple as a balljoint, but I have balljoints with alot of play and do not experience any vibration. I like the idea of rotating the wheels, could be broken belts.

He did say 110,000miles................. Definitely could be the turbo. I wonder how likely it is to be the PCV valve? I really suggest if you want to drive it, that you check the oil and make sure it isn't burning at a HUGE rate. Just make sure the oil is full before going to the dealer. Hope all goes well!

You should only use a OEM PCV valve. It is like $7 at your dealership. Same with the o2 sensor, but as long as it is bosche it is OEM.

I would start with the airfilter, plugs, and wires.

That usually indicates a broken bushing in he wiper assembly. I had the same issue, but not that crazy, really odd.

To be honest I would be sure to get him a auto car. Less things for him to concentrate on. All he needs to concentrate on is throttle brakes and steering, vs throttle, brakes, clutch, gear, steering.... First gen N/A legacy is my suggestion, cheap insurance, very safe, reliable, fast enough.

Then my interior lights run! Annoys the crap out of me lol. Particularly because the radio will dim when the headlights are on.

Indeed! Funny the dealer locally said $68. Cheaper than online, now thats a first.

Found the culprit was hitting relays and realized the lights started flickering. So I found this relay and it was filled with water and when you shake it everything was loose. (was not mounted on the mount was on the floor so it got wet) anyway so I am trying to find the part number. Typed in the one on the top of the relay on Subaru Genuine with no luck going to call the dealership.

So if I understand what you are saying. You mean the car is running fine, no overheating issues, but the heat out your vents is not coming out unless you rev it up. I ran into the same issue after putting in my new radiator. At the same time I also replaced my thermostat (only use OEM and get a gasket) and my radiator cap, which are important parts and can give you symptoms you are getting. The following day re-bled the system with the car parked(be sure engine is cold obviously before doing anything) on a uphill slant, engine running, and open up the radiator cap, squeeze the top hose a continously to get out any air and continue adding coolant untill it is filled to the top of the lid actually to the first notch so you can put the lid on obviously. Watch it, the fluid should stay at the same height and this way know it is filled and there is no air in the system otherwise keep pumping that top hose. Also be sure to put the heat on with the temperature on the hottest side and fan on lvl 3-4. Clean up the cap to, there might be some crap on the rubber. The issue should not occur after this as long as the temp gauge sensor is working correctly. There have been other discusions and someone suggested the heatcore could be clogged. Lets not jump to conclusions though.

You will probably need the bulb sockets as well as they are usually damaged.