ericem

What?????? fast idle control??? are they talking about the IAC valve?? That is crazy you could have probably just sprayed some throttle body cleaner down the IAC tube and the problem would have been gone. Other thing is vacuum leaks as mentioned. After they replaced it was the problem worse or better? At $500 they better fix it.

Then you say Thank God I bought a Subaru Ya but today was bad. I got over 50cm in my driveway. Mainly because the snow drifts all to my house...... no biggie though.

Oh great now the forester is #1 ranked by Dog Associates :-p It is also one VERY fast car. The turbo ones do 0-60 in like 5.3s and quarter mile in only 14s thats crazy!

I would look at changing the fluid a few times first. It could also be a bad TPS sensor or speed sensor. This car FWD or AWD?

I think it would be delayed if the transmission isn't warmed up am I correct? With a auto it should be instant.

Could most likely be the tires being out of balance or worn out.

Look for torque bind, and look at your fluids. Does the engine knock? How is fuel economy?

Hopefully its just a broken timing belt though.

I think you can just swap over all the stock like heads and alll good internals and make a non turbo ej22 into a turbo motor. Just don't run high boost.

You can get a ej22 for cheap.

I never thought about that! would that be to prevent a vacuum leak?

Can't do it with my legacy the locks are flush not at the top. SO I don't see how a rod or coat hanger could get it. I don't even see how you could pry on the glass.

Does it have a automatic transmission?? IF it is VERY loud I doubt it is just sticking lifters. You could try changing the oil and dumping seafoam in the oil and gas tank. Also dump some into the pcv valve. Check the oil though.

Take it. Go to a yard and grab the strut, possibly will also need a a-arm and cv. Shouldn't cost much to fix if it is indeed just that.

Someone on teh board did it. He went to the yard tested it (supposedly) and after putting it all in he starts up the car and once again he found coolant coming out hte vents what a mess I am sure. Eventually he ended up just getting a new heat core. Some tips I think he suggested removing the seats. You need to pull the entire dash. I suggest getting a new core as well. Not worth the hassle of reattempting to do the job.

Yup I saw it at the auto show as well. I wasn't very pleased to be honest. It was like a mitsubishi with a suzuki rear end. Subaru lost there unique good looking design (IMO). I am sure it will drive well though.

Give it a shot. Tell us if you gain some MPG.

Oh great I knew it was to unbelieveable to be true. Should I drive the front of the car on ramps so I can angle the tranmission furthermore maybe?

Hmm. Well verified the problem. Front cv's. They are about to explode lol. One more boot broke on the front and I am guessing it is that one creating the issue. Seemed weird though. Sometimes it sounded like it was coming from the rear. Once my friend in the back verified. There was no noise in the back. I found all the parts I need so I should be good. Reason why it is FWD is, because my transmission is ******* Going to get the new transmission, cv's, and all motor mounts, and rebuild the gaskets on the motor this spring. Should drive like new. All I need then is struts.

Hey. I have a question. Sometimes when you make the slightest adjustment turning right the rear knocks. Not enough though that the suspension would chaange. Not sure what I should do. The rear CV's don't have broken boots. There is 1 CV that is still original in teh back on the right side (car has 307,000km) and there is 1 original bearing in the back as well. What should I look at? Now it is pretty rough just seems like it is soo loud for such a slight adjustment in the steering wheel. The car isn't even working in AWD so the rear wheels aren't being powered.

I had the same problem. I just took it out. Drenched it in contact cleaner. Then hit it a few times. So far has been a few years, and no abs relay sticking This better not jinx it

Thanks guys. I think I will try the method with the wrench extensions. Then try the method with the screw driver before I pull out the motor. How difficult you think it will be to get the tranny engine out together?? I am assuming it is as easy as remove all the engine and tranny mounts bolts and braces. Then remove some connectors. Then I will get my dad to vacuum out the A/C gas if there is any left anyway then he can unplug the A/C line. Remove the rear axle, and undo the pins for the cv's in the front. Is there something else?? Or it just won't be this easy? All I plan on buying is this to work on the motor. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=32916 and this to pull the motor. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93840 I already have the toher tools i need. Like impact,torque wrench and socket set.

Well I have the pulley holder. Still though just bothers me. I think I warmed my rubber a bit using it last time. OR my shaft is warped a bit because when it is idling it is not 100% straight i can see it shiver in and out like 2-3mm. Maybe I can make the tool myself??

Hey. Getting ready. Decided were going to fix up our Subaru legacy after all. Also no the head gaskets aren't bad. I found a decent deal got all the CV's, transmission, and a radiator(mine is leaking) for low mileage (under 50k) $500 need to go get them. So far fixed up the rust sanded all the spots and painted it all well. Just need to get the windshield done. So anyway found the engine crane, a engine holder or w/e you want to call it to let me turn the engine upside down, spring compressor, already have impact tools. Now I need to find the tool with 4 bolts that can grab the harmonic pulley. See how it will grab the pulley.

They don't just I took the pic threw glass without flash