ericem

Oh ya forgot to ask do I need to remove the disc on the other side and make sure they are the exact same thickness or it won't really matter just one disc will obviously wear out faster?

Ya got the caliper out. One piston is totally seized, broken seal. Rust indeed! Also found the slider to be stiff, and my disc looks messed, but it is straight now warped. Will get it spun and make sure it is perfectly smooth. The pads were fine though! So I think I found a few people locally who have a caliper. Should be fine I guess. This time I am going to bleed my brakes with atleast 2L of brake fluid to make sure there is no moisture in the other brakes. Thanks for the help guys!

Actually it probably was dragging, I remember sometimes it wouldn't really move to well, other times it was great. I am confused though, how do the brakes actually release? Tomorrow my dad will probably pull out the the caliper and see whats going on. If the piston is damaged is it pretty visible? This is what I noticed, if I stop lightly at a light and release the car rolls a tiny bit. If when stopped i push the brake hard and release the car will not roll and when you take off you can hear the brake grabbing. Should I just replace the O ring and gasket and keep going? I remember the gasket for the piston did not look so great. Didn't think it was very important seemed like it was just dried brake squeak flaking.

Hi, Just did all 4 rotors and pads on the 94 SS. It seems like this is my issue with the shimmy and really bad fuel economy. After driving downtown the brakes smelled HORRIBLE. My dad checked out the temp of my brakes with a inferad gun and read the ONE wheel was 560F and the passenger side was around 100F. The rear brakes were only like 60 F. So I remember when I installed the brakes that driver side brake that is overheated actually moved pretty smooth and I greased the sliders very well, the sliders looked like brand new as well good boots etc. Used anti squeak on the back of the pads if that matters as well? When I bled my brakes, I did it in sequence with a brake bleeding tool. I remember with my wagon when I did this since I had help I just held down the brake, and my dad would close the bleed valve. This time I didn't do that had the bleeding hose in a tube which was submerged so no air could be introduced. Is this really neccesary? Anything else I should look at? Thanks guys!

Cornering isn't really a issue, just driving it feels like something is dragging. I recently did all 4 discs and calipers, and greased up the sliders well they all looks perfect too, the steering does not pull either. I found a set of impreza rims with the stock bridgestones, for now ill use them, and later Ill get some new tires. Atleast it will have 4 of the same size tires Thanks guys!

Hey. Trying to verify a issue with my 94 SS. I am going to get new tires during the week. Right now the car has newer tires upfront then the rear both the same size, but I did not actually measure them and the are different brands. Now this is what I notice, the car does not seem to roll as well as my 93 wagon does. Seems like something is dragging, and sometimes it feels like something is causing the car to surge when driving at the same time I get vibration in the steering wheel. I am thinking maybe one or w/e tires are damaged, and since there are two different tires, the surging is from the rear wheels and front wheels spinning at a different rate as well as creating drag since it is a AWD car. Does this make sense? Overall the car does not seem like it is getting the fuel economy it should.Anything else I need to look over? Also my one of my front axles seem to be clicking sometimes, but no broken boots. 94 Legacy SS 192,000km 93 Legacy L 324,000km

You guys sure you replaced the correct temp sensor? Dumb question SOMETIMES.

Do all turbo cars have this? Where would it be?

Sounds like alot of the issues were do to people not doing preventative maintenance of replacing the PCV valve or getting a proper oil change as well maybe?

Be careful with that bolt. When I removed mine, the damn bolt snapped. Still need to drill mine out. Been driving with no bolt head and a bad balljoint with a broken boot for a little while now on the wagon. The bolt basially sits in a contoured part of the balljoint, but I guess it does pinch it as well.

Ya I wouldn't jump on it unless he is more flexible on the price. You can keep your eyes open on the parts shed at bbs.legacycentral.org though.

your not touching the throttle or brake are you? That can disable the cruise. Have fun with the car!

haha lol!!!!! Doesn't he need collision to.

Disconnect the alternator maybe? and try again with a full battery.

The one in my N/A wagon is good recently replaced. Going to swap it and see how it runs. I remember the knock sensor was cracked on my N/A and figured I should replace it but there was no code. Made pretty well no difference to be honest. Was looking at fuel economy savings more then anything. I am just hoping it is not a wiring issue, but it doesn't seem to be since if I wiggle the wire etc it doesn't go away only like i said if the engine is somewhat colder then completly warmed up or I am on the highway it is fine.

Oh I checked that. When we bought the car. The guy originally wanted $1200. Then I said the AWD wasn't working and figured oh maybe the FWD fuse was in but didn't want the salemen to see this. So he said OK fine $650 taxes in and its yours! I was totally hooked I figured even if there is a AWD issue it can be repaired, and considering the car was rust free and drove like a brand new car bought it right away. The guy did rust proof it hint no rust in a salt belt. Anyway the fuse wasn't in though lol. Really impressed with this thing, turbo is really amazing can't beat having boost. Now I don't drive the N/A except if it snows alot since the AWD works to SOME degree and the tires are alot better on the wagon for snow.

Hey guys. I thought my knock sensor was the reason for the code, but I removed it and inspected it, and saw no cracks, and the connector looks to be the newer updated one, looks clean like a new sensor. There was a MAF sensor code too. Need to check again though. What could be the issue most likely if the check engine light goes out at a steady pace, and when the engine is cool? I have a spare MAF sensor, it is the one N/A's use. Think I should pop it in? Anything else that can cause a code like this? Thanks guys! Forgot to add when the check engine light is on, the rpms like to surge, like if i hold my pedal at once place, it will fain rpm's but like surge, and my idle surges up and down. Would a knock sensor do this?? Car is a 94 SS

Oh perfect thanks alot . Looked on google but I searched "subaru auto transmission pressure test" lol.

This car I bought has been sitting for a few months thats for sure. Lately I have been driving it more often. Fluid looks very good though otherwise. Going to recheck the code maybe I am getting a speed sensor code instead? First time I checked it was just a drive solenoid c code.

What trips the code? I thought the solenoid not working would make it torque bind. I don't really notice the awd working, tried on snow and all nothing kicks in. SOMETIMES though the power light is not flashing on startup. Car: 94 legacy SS 191,000 km. Changed the fluid recently to.

Don't think there was a power light in 99.

Hey guys. Last time I was at my subaru dealership, the mechanic noted how my awd has a delay. He said to get a pressure gauge and hook up to the spot on the rear of the transmission to see the valve pressure. Where can I get this gauge and the proper fittings? Thanks! Need to do the same with my 94 ss as sadly the awd does not work at all with it Pretty odd two subaru's no awd xD

That looks extremely familiar. I remember it hooking up to a motor, was the main fan motor and it runs the vent air through the motor for cooling purposes.

Check all the CV boots, maybe one axle is bad. Even a driveshaft bearing could be bad.

try genuine subaru parts. https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html