ericem

Also with those 'napa' axles I have heard alot of cases where they come clicking already. I think it would make me feel better knowing I have OEM axles that I know will last then some axles made by a random company.

Maybe you THOUGHT you put it in D before, but instead it was in N.

With my calipers had to take out the best weapon. Took then out in no time Untill I get my new ones I just cleaned them up with grid sand paper, and greased then VERY well with brake synthetic slider grease.

Also verify its not a rack and pinion leak. My car has on the bottom is drenched in oil in various places yet I do not notice much oil loss.

Can't anyone clean the injectors in some acohol? How do I remove them to begin with?

Must be with my car I don't have any though. I think its because my dad always got a car wash in the winter and would rinse out the engine bay.

Thanks alot porcupine73! I had to fill up the hose with throttle body cleaner(said for IAC valves as well) and plugged it back in then just started the car and held the gas down wouldn't work if I unplugged it. But WOW after the 2nd shot in the tube it made a worlds difference no more low idle if I tap the gas. ALWAYS went to 500 rpm's after the 2nd shot of throttle body cleaner before if i tapped the gas really quick in park the engine would almost die. Car is like WAY more responsive and smooth as well, this seems to have made a worlds difference! Thank you very much!!

Try and shake the front CV's inner and outer if you notice quiete a bit of play, that can definitely be the problem my 93 is the same way and my inners have alot of play.

Glad to hear your fine! Those impreza's are pretty much just as good as previous impreza's just bland styling IMO but eh if it suits you go for it.

Hello. Trying to find this IAC valve. I saw many pictures but I don't know exactly what I am looking at. Anyone have a clear picture of the engine bay with a picture? Reason why I ask is I am noticing low idle sometimes. Thanks. BTW I ordered the seal for the IAC and can I use throttle body cleaner to clean it? or do I need use seafoam?

Yes I am using plugs specified in the manual(same NGK partnumber) the wires are a little over a year old I believe, rubber looked good. Got a wire dremel bit and cleaned it up then blew it out. I believe it coroded because of me. Last time I cleaned the motor, water got past the wire somehow and the water was in there for a bit and I got misfiring but ignored it. Then I sprayed contact cleaner while the motor was hot. SO 2 possibilities where I damaged the wires. XD

My wires look to have some corrosion on the plug side. Should I clean them up or just replace them?

I have cleaned it before. First time I cleaned it with brake cleaner but was told that isn't a good idea, then redid it with some contact cleaner. Not sure if break cleaner does damage. Going to test it tomorrow thanks.

The PCV valve is OEM Just replaced the ECU temp sensor. Same result. Car runs alot better when its cold though. Still thinking about replacing the MAF sensor.

Thats a good point actually

Thanks for that link. I would describe my plug as. Dry and Wet Fouling Although there are many different cases, if the insulation resistance between the center electrode and the shell is over 10 ohms, the engine can be started normally. If the insulation resistance drops to 0 ohms, the firing end is fouled by either wet or dry carbon.

Lots of hesitation, that I do not beleive was there before.

This is usually how they come out without the rust.

Well a vacuum gauge showed 21 in-hg and the car doesn't burn oil. Just replaced PCV valve, and the plumbing still same thing :-\

Hi I want your opinion on what is wrong. I have replaced the plugs 3 times in 15,000km and they always come out looking the same way with a lot of carbon on the plug. Tried NGK g and v powers with same result.

Hmm interesting. I wonder what will happen if I spray febreeze or lysol all over my wheels and put scented candles in the rim's.

I guess they figure its faster to remove and install the wheels. Also faster to torque down correctly and evenly.

Definitely still could be. Think about the way a tire is balanced. Do they just spin it fast and apply pressure to certain areas? Maybe the same thing is happening when you go over the railroad track.

Yup I did replace the knock sensor. Still need to solve the issue with my spark plugs getting all carboned up with less then 4,000km.

Hi all. Today going up a hill noticed the engine struggled and hesitated close to dieing. I have replaced many sensors and injected pleanty of cleaning aids (seafoam through out everything) now I think I must change the MAF sensor. Any other sensors I should look at or things all together? Thanks.