ericem

not asking for 14v. I don't thing 11.7v at 2-3000rpm is normal. The max it would get up to is 12.4v at 4000rpm.

Oh and by the way the ECU does compensate idle for voltage as well. With ac ONLY on im at 700rpm's or less. When i turn on other accesories like the wipers it goes up to 1000+.

Um ya one sec, ill show you them tommorow its on a paper in my dad's truck.

ECU was upping idle to 1000+ trying to get the voltage up. And even at 3000rpm's didn't go past 12.5v. But in my dad's truck at idle of about 500rpm's had radio blasting max ac exact same test the voltage did not budge AT ALL. and the idle stayed the EXACT same.

Woot its 30 months. They better not charge me to check it

Hmm, did another test today. Got 11-11.7v with wipers on, radio, lights, high beams, max fan and mac ac. Nothing aftermarket is in the car. Going for a official test to find out if its the battery tommorow at subaru. Does anyone know what the warrenty usually is for Subaru batteries?? The dealer installed it. Has been ALMOST a year.

Ya i got 13v at 500rpm idle.

Well replaced the alternator. Is 13v good with lights, high beams, and max ac on with highest level fan?

Forgot he mensioned he replaced the ac compressor. Maybe he forgot to tension the belts properly.

you probably overfiled it. If you used the same refrigerant you don't really NEED to vacuum the system. It is alot more difficult to spin hte ac when its overfilled so the clutch engages then just disengages when it feels it is to difficult and putting to much of a load on it. But i guess when it is reving higher it will keep it engaged.

I don't know its just corrosion lol. Moisture and metal eh? Get a screw remover. Or grab the bolt with pliers. You sure your using hte correct socket??

they sell it?????? You should have just got it off of https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html I paid $60 for it and our conversion is pretty close to the same.

you better. I didn't and had to get a shop to weld in a brand new panel and cut out ALLLLL the deep deep rust for $2000. Worth every penny though

I love those steelie rims They look real good and I wouldn't need to worry about if i hit a curb or what not

Don't feel like it today. So your all going to have to suffer waiting.

had lights on radio turned up, defrost on, wipers on, max ac on and max fan. Don't knwo what else sucks the battery?

Well the alternator is still under warrenty. So might as well find it.

Sorry to hear.......... My dad got into a accident when he was in his toyota tercel which effected him alot he got serious whip lash i believe? He used to always look like he had a cold AND ALOT of complaints about his neck and ALOT of advil. Now hes better after about 10 years later. Things just happen though.

Ya because my dad was thinking the ABS was drawing to much power. I remember the relay used to stick, but I just sprayed some contact cleaner on the relay and all connectors. Then it stopped sticking. Now I just hear the abs randomly come on then following a ABS light. But it doesn't keep the pump running.

I thought it was no more then 14.4v?

Could it be the Battery? Terminals seem fine getting like a .1 v difference between the battery and alternator terminals.

Well this is the second non-oem replacement, and before it still had light dimming at idle. I just did a grounding mod with a wire going from strut tower to strut, to neg of battery. Another wire from the block to the neg terminal as well. Haven't driven at night yet after I did the mod, but the car seems to shift better, and idle unnoticeably, but i still got a ABS light, its weird see when I hit the brakes sometimes I hear the abs kick in on light braking keep in mind on drive hot asphalt, then the abs light just turns on. I know one CV boot is torn a little still need to get around to replacing it, and the front rotors are warped a bit, as well as the brake fluid still needs to be changed, brakes are very mushy, and can't lock the brakes, as well as worn pads.

Well, i got my battery replaced a few months ago with a OEM battery. But i replaced my alternator with a non-oem alternator. Now I get 14-14.1v with the lights off. but when i turn on the lights and the max ac, at level 3 fan, i am at 12-12.5v on idle, and at 1-4,000 rpm's max i get is 13.1v. Could this explain my hesistation issue, light dimming at idle, ABS light at times and inconsistent fan speed? What do you think I should do get a OEM alternator? or find another rebuilt, i think the one my dad got doesn't have enough amps.

thats a good point lol. Not much selection though in 1.5DIN.