mtsmiths

If you look at a Cherokee, there is the same basic profile as the EA82 body style. There's some differences, but if the flares are fiberglas (I don't know if they are, or ABS), you could easily make fillets to make the stiffening crease lines match up. The thing I like about the Cherokee flares is the squarish shape which matches the overall body style better than a pure 1/2 circle. Just a th'ot, haven't measured or slapped one up against my wagon or anything. Should be pretty cheap at junkyards, God knows there's enuff dead Cherokees around.

mine went south years ago , but the local muffler shop only charged $15.00 to do the bypass surgery. You weren't at a national brand name shop were you? You may hear a bit more exhaust 'rap' and the occassional mini backfire with the resonator gone, but it's not loud or obtrusive.

It looks like someone put Whitefish into one of those little glass balls and shook it up real good. Both 'Roos are studded, the woodbox is stocked, got brandy and coffee or hot chocolate and peppermint schnapps ready to brew, and the hottub is cranked up to 104 ... hope it keeps it up all night! After I get the driveway shoveled, tomorrow should be fun. I think I'll drive up Big Mountain and check out the X-cntry skiing while the Pretty One goes to work.

http://usmb.net/gallery/mtsmiths/driveway1 Now the winter camo 'roo looks right at home, DA TOVARISH?

Unless you have a real floor mounted caged spring compressor. I wqould find a good local tire/suspension shop and deal. Forget the nationals like Pep boys and AutoZone. That said, we have almost 150,000 miles on our '00 Legacy wagon, and I just had our struts looked over by my local tire guy when they had the car up swapping the winter wheels/tires on. He said no signs of wear yet, so I ddon't think you need worry for a long-long time.

The speedo on my '87 waps all the way over the 130 now and then. Doesn't affect the odometer count. It always stayes there until the car comes to a stop. Next time it moves it may settle down to normal, or go back up to hyperspeed again. My indy mechanic says it's a bad seal on the tranny letting gear lube up the shaft, and is too much trouble to fix. If so, I don't know why it comes and goes, it's not a function of temperature or miles driven. Mysterious.

My bet is that legal counsel has advised to never sell a whole car; in order to limit their liability when someone wrecks a salvage car from them and then sues for 'negligence' is selling a 'defective' product. Ahhh, life in modern America!

And was it Subaru powered? have a Spezio tuholer (pic in members album), but its a Lyc O-290D. There's a couple other EAA types that hang around here as well. Welcome, and have fun with your next project.

You told them no dealer emblems on YOUR car. They violated the agreement. take it back and demand an unaltered vehicle, or at a minimum swap the bumper off one that has not been drilled. You DID get the agreement in writing? No, well threaten them with small claims court anyhow. If you live in a rear license only state, there was no reason for them to drill holes in the front of your car. Personally, I wouldn't have driven it off the lot, I would have said that's not MY car, mine has no dealer modifications.

Door to door. Everything from warm window down sunny weather to frozen slush on hte road and hoorizontal snow in the air. Other than my dumb trick of leaving the gas cap on top of the car somewhere in Ohio, the trip went fine. Glad to be home in Subaru country.

And will that alone raise it just a bit ... not a 'lift', just enought to get the airdam above curb height ... or, teach my wife to stop a little sooner.

But I can't WAIT to get back to Montana (and my bedwarmer). 2,300 miles of interstate and 150 miles of mountain roads between me and Whitefish. Tell, ya all about it when I get back and my box set back up. Toodles

"Stealership"

?

The local tire shops won't balance my wheels 'cause they say the tires are too worn. I will be swapping into my winter studded tires/wheels as soon as I get home and don't want to buy new tires here, but also don't want to put up with vibration for the next 2,500 miles. Comments, name brands, and sources are solicited. THANX Smitty

... since it has no suspension on it now and mounts forsame will have to be fabricated and welded on the frame. Use the whole drive tain from a 4WD 'Roo, engine up front, lift it high enough for the drive line and exhaust to run under the pan and recut the rear for regular suspension and rear drive. It would be high enough, and almost zero overhang. Should make an awsome rough country car. I want a 'beach car' for Hawaii (Kona Coast, Big Island). Some of the best surfing and camping spots are tow or three miles across lava fields. 'Roads' consist of white coral rocks set along the black lave to indicate the most likely route. When you get to the coast there may be a mile of soft white sand beach to cross. You pick your spot in the cocoanut or keawi groves and set up camp. So I want a car that can crawl across the gullies and ravines on the lava, and then cross the sand without having to throw sand all over the place (you t'row san' in some momona* mokes face, you gonna get plenny pilikia**) like a sandrail or dune buggy would.

I could swing by on the way home and throw this thing on a U-Haul trailer.

Will also take smoke smudge off window glass, clean burned pans (soak overnight and the stuff wipes up), makes a good tire dressing (don't rinse off), and, of course ... ...irraddiate your tightywighties.

But for longevity and ease of repair (once you get used to the quirks) nothin' beats a Roo. I'm currently in MD from Montana. Drove out here at 70-75 nonstop in an '87 GL 4WD with 205,000 + miles on the clock, with NO problems. Heading back to Montana this weekend, same car. I average 26-29 mpg on the interstate, 23-24 around town (I'm a traffic leadfoot). Try that in your average american SUV. Find a good indie mechanic (stay away from the Subaru Stealerships), where are you? I found a good mechanic in Glen Burne by calling a foriegn car parts store and asking for a recco. I had a wheel bearing going out; dealer $385.00 and two days, ol' George $185.00 and six hour in & out. Get a pre-purchase inspection, if it checks out good buy it, you'll love it, and you can learn all about it right here! ANd remember Subarus like revs, and can take it, so wind up before you shift.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2441377346&category=6235 A Model T frame is just two parallel rails with cross members. Full Subie running gear, adapters for the wood spoke wheels ... talk about GROUND CLEARANCE!

... mtsmiths wants to know the same info for a 2000.

Go to your wifes' laundry room and steal a handful of Bounce sheets. Use hot water and the Bounce, and the sap will wash right off. Also bugs, road tar and they're great for cleaning plastic headlight covers. As long as you don't let the grit accululate (rinse frequently on a dirty surface) you won't harm the paint or plastic, and the nasties will clean right off. I even do my airplane plexiglass windows with no harm (always back and forth, never in circles). Learned this from an old biker who figgered it out for his show bike, so you KNOW it's gentle. Kinda makes ya want ta rip off your underwear don't it!

Subject to closer scrutiny and measuring: 1. Dump all the VW junk. 2. Full Subary running gear EFI (turbo?) and auto 4WD. Engine/tranny and suspension mounts so the driveline and exhaust can run under the pan (it's gonna have PLENNY ground clearance. 3. Move the roll cage top sidebars to a doubled center, a'la T-top. 4. Rework the rear engine compartment into a frame for a pick-up bed. 5. All the goodies to make it a street legal cage car (including wipers ... a must in Hawaii). 6. I'll do the body skins (I've got some wild ideas on that one). So, would it work and how many bushels of money might I need?

and clamping it to the e-brake at night too ... but that's for ME!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2440800905&category=6737&rd=1