Jadu108

Update after a couple weeks: Took it out camping this weekend out in Marcola Oregon and While i was finding a place off road i ran over some clear brush and my front tires started spinning with no such action from the rear... It would seem that my awd js not working. There seems to be no torque bind when tight turning etc

I caught my alternator harness before it caught fire, quit charging during a drive, tried to jump it, and then we noticed the alternator stud over was weirdly bulging away from the stud, pulled it off it was a short fire waiting to happen... so i walked to Ace Hardware and bought some electrical wire, electrical tape, etc and re did my own line from the alternator back toward the fuse box to get home, the next day i took a OEM alternator from the junk yard as well as that harness... I didnt use the alternator, or harness, but i have them for backup, i ended up doing a really solid job on my my make shift harness, and i replaced the stud and part of the housing etc... but still... this isnt an uncommon problem i believe.

you could maybe call the company the imported engine came from, or i imagine subaru might know.

and if he ever needs junk yard replacements the junk yard on 33 just west of the Interstate

there a couple places in Murray and West Valley i used to go to... My friend used to take the car he gave me to guy on near the Subie on State St, around 3300 s block... ill ask if youd like... good price as far as i remember.

Fair enough. Not intended as a slur, just a short hand that I will be sure to refrain from. My apologies to any offended. And i meant it as a joke more or less about hating USDM market... But realistically lets look at what the USDM market doesn't get compared to JDM or even AUDM

its because Jap car companies hate USDM market :\

Alright. I will probably delay doing this for awhile, perhaps when i decide to do timing or something... The tick has quieted itself a bit and is less frequent so im not going to be concerned about it further. Thanks for the input guys... If i do this in the near future I will update what i did and if it solved the issue.

noted. you think the bags of ice will remove enough traction?

of course!!! Especially because here in Eugene we dont have the widest roads, or longest driveways :(, not like where i was in Florida :P. I think IF i decided to do that, I would maybe just let the gas off just enough until I could feel the car start to push, or i would not feel anything and the AWD doesnt work... I would also maybe do it along the curb, or the nearby HS parking lot which is mostly empty for the rest of the summer now

Duralast stuff is pretty junk, ive had better luck with used junk yard replacements tbh. Steering rack i dont think so, though it could be i suppose... but i feel like you would have noticed loose and free steering wheel, shaking and feedback in the steering wheel when turning, and even a loud vibration in those tighter turns. Get the car with all 4s in the air and start turning stuff by hand...

is this something that would have been done part of a valve job(or should have been). My friend who gave me the car had a valve job done within the last 30-40k, maybe more like 20k ago, about 2 yrs or so

i guess another thing i could do is jack up the front just enough to remove most the pressure on the front, and see if the back moves me forward :/ seems kinda dumb to do, but i dont think im gonna have much wet grass soon (i dont think my people want me to tear up the yard). what would i do with soapy water, my driveway is pretty course, so im not sure that would work?

No stethoscope atm but i can say for sure i hear it more in the passenger Wheel Well than the top side

So Ive followed the recommended reading, and it appears i should have had all 4 tires spinning, especially when i switched to 1st gear and blipped throttle, because when the shifter is in 1, the ecu automatically ups the hydraulic pressure to send more torque and power to the rear. Perhaps i misunderstood something in the reading, but what im getting is my MPT is staying disengaged...

changed oil today, tick is still there, although more intermittently... I will do MMO next, but im starting to lean on the screws on the oil pump as i have a small drip coming from bottom of the timing belt cover, creating a lower pressure... Driving and performance is otherwise unaffected... Sound is towards the back of the right side head, facing the car.

handbrake was first thing i checked... honestly i have no idea, ive just heard mixed things about how the auto awd works, but mostly it seems it does work differently from the manual... Personally it IS indeed my first AWD subaru, i had a FWD 94 impreza before, and ive worked on plenty of others, just never with the trans and awd system. Ive heard some say the rears wont engage in the air, and its only when car detects that it needs it through the trans does it engage, and ive heard other ppl say it should regardless at least a little bit :\. IDK... Honestly ive noticed no change in the cars behavior since the texas thunderstorm, and if anything my gas mileage is a bit better since i recently did bearings, axles, and struts. I was 24 to 25 before hwy, now 25 to 26 hwy. Its just something that intrigued me when i noticed it and theres not a lot of clear info on the auto awd...

Autozone can clear the codes with theirs, or just disconnect the battery and switch the car on to discharge the system is what i do

i hope you guys dont mind, but i will be linking the relevant info from LegacyGT. Its a lot of info, but id bookmark it or copy it, a lot of it... And even though most of it info for legacy, its going pretty much pertain to you as well, maybe with some slightly different year ranges or whatever. But still, this information will pertain to you just the same as you basically drive a shortened Legacy Brighton Wagon. Enjoy, Read, Reread, dont just throw a damn turbo in your car and call it done. General Turbo FAQ: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3506948&postcount=2 The main thing to take from this link is this... 2nd Gen Legacy Engines(Which you are also using):https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/second-generation-usdm-legacy-engines-219372.html... however buried a couple post down in the second link is anothing thing i thought was really interesting and had a nice attention to detail despite being a general overview, In short, its going to be a lot of work, a lot of time, and a lot of money to do it right, and its not worth it to do with the NA EJs... a cheaper alternative, thats much easier to do, and to do right, its consider swapping the heads on your ej22 with heads from a ej20, youll get more compression, and itll be more bang for the buck by a significant margin.

just a spit ballin here, but i had a honda civic that did the same thing, similar CEL code... turned out the fuel filter was pretty clogged up, sooo changed that, fixed the problem, light went away on its own after a couple hundred miles of driving. So, i would guess checking your fuel system if your current line of investigation doesnt lead you anywhere.

... um... touching postive to negative is a good way to fry everything in the car.

i got all season with about a half a penny of tread or more, ive already taken it through some nasty thunderstorms through north texas a month or so back, there was like an inch or so of standing water on the freeway, raining so so hard, and i was probably one of the only cars managing to go above 50... it was just recently i had it on stands though, tryin to diagnose a few things and i noticed only the front wheels engage in any gear.

Good to know. I get no binding in tight turns, and sometimes i take them a bit more spirited for the fun of it. I guess when i actually notice something during all weather driving and tight turns and ill consider it an issue. Until then ill stop worrying. Thanks.

that is a good point, honestly sounds pretty spot on considering as the car warms up, the oil becomes more viscous and doesnt have as much pressure as cold thick oil.

I typically agree, but where im at, subarus in junk yards are numerous, and considering strut components swap up until late 00's depending on model of the donor(foresters and wrx), its not a bad way to go for me... i found some shocks barely worn in for 100$ on all 4... for a free car with dead struts with 240k on them. id say its a good fix for now