oczuk32

It's getting to much air, don't really want to mess with the choke. It should be open when engine has reach operating temperature. That once I put my hand on the intake it levels out.

Update… Got the fuel tank cleaned and reinstalled. The wagon fired right up on a cold start, but once it warmed up, it stalled out. Still more work ahead. I’ve been reading up on how touchy and finicky these Hitachi carbs can be. I’ve got a feeling the old varnished fuel left the carb internals gummed up, and that’s what’s causing it to run rough. To be continued…

Thanks, I'm in California I could just imagine shipping cost. The radiator shop I found has good reputation on repairing fuel tanks. From low budget to high end customize fuel tanks. And I'm going for the low budget repair.

Updates... Was able to get it started again. Yes it's the old varnish gasoline that created that slick coating on the cylinder. Reason I know is cause I drain the 4 gallons of gasoline and filter it back to my Suzuki Samurai to burn it off. The next day I went to start my Suzuki. I got the same slick no start issue. Took some starting fluid to crank the engine on. Crazy that fuel would cause that. Gave me reason to take a trip to the mountains to completely burn off the fuel. The Subaru fuel tank has come out and discover a huge layer of sludge and rust. Drop it off at a radiator shop and see if it could be saved.Updates… I managed to get it started again. Turns out the old varnished gasoline was creating a slick coating on the cylinder. I figured it out after draining 4 gallons and filtering it into my Suzuki Samurai to burn off. The next day, when I tried starting the Suzuki, I ran into the same slick no-start issue. A little starting fluid finally got the engine to crank. Crazy that the fuel I added just days prior could varnish so quickly! At least it gave me an excuse to take a mountain trip to burn it off completely. As for the Subaru, I pulled the fuel tank and found a thick layer of sludge and rust, so I dropped it off at a radiator shop to see if it can be saved. Bushytails you were smack on on the that issue.

Everything is turning over and getting spark. It cranks, but then stalls out. Based on what someone mentioned, the old varnished fuel may have damaged the valve seat seals or piston rings, causing a loss of compression. I drained the old fuel from the tank and blew out the fuel lines with compressed air. Then I added a couple gallons of fresh gas along with a treatment. I suspect the treatment is doing its job by breaking down the varnish in the tank—but that might be sending residue into the engine. I’ll monitor how it performs over the next few days.

Tried starting the engine this evening and it sounded like it completely lost compression. Any thoughts?

Cold idle startup is solid. Ambient temperature was 89°F. After revving the engine to transition out of warm-up, the idle RPMs drop very low. I adjusted the carburetor idle screw to raise the RPMs above 700 and set the timing to just over 8 degrees BTDC. It's improving little by little. I'm currently running a cheap Amazon fuel pump until the correct one arrives from RockAuto (shipping from New York). I can still smell remnants of the old fuel coming from the exhaust. Once the new pump arrives, I plan to add fresh gas to the tank and see if there's any improvement.

Yeah, it's all California emissions junk. I'm pretty sure it's robbing some horsepower. Honestly, it'd be way easier to slap on a Weber carb and call it a day. But I must comply with laws.

I learn something new every time from you guys in this forum—really appreciate the insights. The solenoids are a bit noisy, and I initially assumed the ECU was causing the chatter or there was a bad connection. Interestingly, when I unplug them, the engine runs noticeably smoother. But when they’re connected, it feels like the engine is starving. I’m planning to clean the carb a bit more and take a closer look at the O₂ sensor. According to the manual, the solenoids operate based on readings from the O₂ sensor.

Got the wagon running after being parked for 13 years. Who knows why the duty solenoids are chattering. Who could explain the reason it's why the solenoids are doing that.

Its was a ebay sale from. https://www.ebay.com/str/mazdaphilsrotaryproductsrubber On this link they have the whole glass with the seal. It would probably be pricey to ship.https://www.autoglasswarehouse.com.au/subaru-leone-10-79-to-7-84-4dr-wagon-rear-windscre

I purchased for my front windshield on Australia website. https://www.autoglasswarehouse.com.au/subaru-leone-10-1979-to-7-1984-and-brumby-1-1982-t For rear wagon hatch glass I got lucky and found it on Ebay Australia.

Update! I discovered that the transmission modulator vacuum hose had transmission fluid in it, indicating that the diaphragm is likely failing—since there shouldn’t be any fluid in the hose at all. Fortunately, my local O'Reilly Auto Parts store had one in stock, so I swapped it out. Now, the transmission shifts through all three gears properly. However, I’ve noticed a new issue: if I come to a complete stop and then try to proceed, first gear doesn’t engage. The only way to get it to engage is by shifting to Neutral ("N") and then back to Drive ("D").

I know swapping it is the ideal route, and I’ve got the whole parts wagon ready. But I think there’s still a bit more life left in this 3AT. It’s not grinding or making any weird noises. I pull out the good old service manual and run some tests this weekend.

Well, I think the inevitable has happened to the 3AT in my wagon. I took a 100-mile Memorial Day road trip from LA to Oxnard down Pacific Coast Highway, and it ran great as usual. I parked it while we ate at a restaurant, but as soon as I started driving back, it began slipping in first gear. The fluid level is good and doesn’t smell burnt. I was able to manually engage first gear by shifting into first and then back into drive. Where should I start troubleshooting? Transmission vacuum modulator Band adjustment I want to go through some diagnostics and see if it’s something simple. Or is it time to bite the bullet and swap in a 5-speed manual with dual range? The car has 111,000 miles on the odometer—14,000 of those were driven lifted with 27" tires

Great work! I’ve been dreading changing the intake gaskets on my EA81T, mainly because I suspect that’s where air is escaping into my coolant passages. But it’s great to see this write-up—definitely helps me prepare for any issues I might run into.

They do move up and down but they do not come off. I just had my wife sew on the head rest cover and seat cover.

Reviving this post cause my wagon is starting with the same issue. Has anyone come up with a solution or the cause? Currently, I unplug the and plug the wire harness to get the ECU to work. Then when it sits for a while like the next day. The wagon won't start until unplugged and plug the harness to the ECU.

So my 84 wagon turbo is foaming up the radiator and running hotter. I'm 80 percent that its head gaskets compression leaking into the cooling system. What is the best head gasket that has been used with good results? I've seen MLs (MULTI LAYER STEEL) head gaskets for newer subaru's but not for the old gens. Or should I just go with the Felpro permatorque head gasket?

Installed nee seat covers. I wasn't able to remove the head rest. So I had to slice a hole onto the seat covers and had my gf sew them back together.

I blew my left front strut on my GL wagon by hitting a huge pot hole in Utah, and we all know its impossible to none in finding the front struts. Who has has used a alternative strut or suspension set up on there GL wagons?

Does your brat have the center high beam?

New drill slotted rotors, ceramic pads and extended braided brake lines.

Calipers are out of stock. Thats on every online autoparts site.

Yes I've look at Rock Auto and does not have boot. Only the caliper pistón rebuild kit. The hunting begins on those rubber boots.