TheBigJ

Phycotron, if you are still reading this thread, I have some more info about the car that you might have forgotten when I sold it to you. I had to have the wheel bearings replaced and packed with grease by a machine shop because at one point I had not tightened the axle nut on tight enough. I was using a 12" adjustable wrench at the time. I am pretty sure this happened on the drivers side. After this was done, I had to do some other work, and after some time I had to have the hub replaced because the splines were wearing down - again, axle nut not tight enough. The hub was replaced by a great mechanic in Jackson WY and he looked at the bearings and decided there was still plenty of grease so they were not regreased at that time. Fast forward about a year. There was some popping noise coming from passenger side and it was because the axle nut was loose. My conclusion is that the car has a solid history of having axle nuts come loose on both sides. I think this is because of the washer and triangular ring/cone fitting between the axle nut and the hub. You should try to get those replaced with new ones and see if this takes care of the problem. If not, then it might be time to repack or replace the wheel bearings on one or both sides. Unfortunately you have to take the whole assembly to a machine shop and have them press out the bearings. No way to replace them yourself. You should also check the ball joints. One was replaced in Jackson WY but the other one (passenger side) could be going bad. This can cause a popping noise but usually only when turning. Good luck.

When my oil seal O-ring was leaking, I had a good coating under the whole of the engine. The pic you posted showing the smoking area indicates (to me) that the smoke is almost definitely coming from the cat, which probably still has a good coating of oil on it and can take a while to burn off, especially if there is still oil on the oil pan, tranny, etc. Before you tear anything else apart, make sure you are still leaking oil by cleaning the engine. Then you will also know where the leak is coming from. Any of the engine brite or other brand products will help you get that oil off. You could have pools of oil on splash guards and/or control arms that needs to be cleaned up too. Get yourself a bunch of rags EDIT: did you really clean off all the old gasket material on both the block and the oil pump? With something good like brake parts cleaner?

I forgot to mention, there is no "oil pump gasket" for this car, eg no paper or cork gasket. Just the grey silicone.

yeah, they'll have it, but when I got mine I had to sort through a bin to find the one of the right diameter and thickness. They did not have in their stupid computer which was the right one for my car. Be sure you take the old one with you. Mine was 3/32" thickness but I don't remember the diameter

I did this mess myself a few weeks ago. I had the same problem. I checked and double checked the timing belt install and everything lined up fine. My problem was the crank position sensor. This is a little metal can installed in the top of the oil pump housing with some wires coming off it. It MUST be installed for the engine to start. If you are getting no spark (I wasn't) this could be your problem. If you are super anal like me I doubt you got the timing belt off, but it's worth checking.

I had this same problem recently on my 90 legacy. Once you get the timing belt cover off you will probably be able to see where the oil is coming from. There are two cam seals (L/R) and one oil pump seal - sometimes called the crank seal depending which parts store you are in. If you get the timing belt and covers off and the oil pump looks basically clean, it's probably the O-Ring in the oil pump that needs to be replaced. I recommend taking out the 7 oil pump bolts and pulling the oil pump off the crank - this makes it much easier to get the seal off without damaging the crank or oil pump housing. There are detailed instructions in other threads about how to remove this seal with a prying tool but this is unnecessary IMO if you are removing the oil pump itself. Use grey RTV - you'll notice the package says "superior oil resistance." I can get you the O-Ring size or mail you one if you want, I have extras now.

I just did this myself, here is what you are looking for: the 2.2L engine has 44 tooth on the passenger side and 40.5 teeth on the driver side the 2.5L DOHC has 54.5 teeth on pass. and 51 teeth on driver side. This info is from the Haynes manual for "1990 to 1998 Legacy" Dunno if they have changed it for the 2.5 liter engine since 98, but I would say that the 44/40.5 refers to the 2.2L only.

Well you don't have to drill the whole thing out necessarily. You can still drill a little hole in the center of the threaded rod and use one of the screw/bolt extractors that looks like a reverse threaded screw. As you screw it in it grips tighter and tighter because the diameter increases slightly, like a pin reamer.

Ok... in the name of keeping the information here accurate, the 1/4" refers to circumference, NOT diameter or radius. While it's true that front tires wear out faster for various reasons, you are supposed to rotate them before the difference is so extreme. If you are just replacing two tires (for whatever reason, although not recommended) try to find some that are the same size and have similar wear as cookie said. If you are forced to get some with more tread, then putting them on the front to wear them out faster might not be a bad idea. There might be some reason not to do this I haven't considered. Johngenx: tread depth variations are changes in radius (NOT diameter). Therefore a 1/32 difference in tread depth = .03125 change in radius, or .0625" change in diameter. That's why we are multiplying by 2 pi, not just pi. You can multiply change in diameter by pi if you want, but in that case, your 9/32=0.28" is really a change of 18/32=0.56" in diameter. IMO the 1/4" is conservative and slightly exceeding it is no big deal. But there's no reason not to follow it - if you are considering running mismatched tires because you can't afford new ones, you should reconsider your vehicle of choice. Get something that's 2WD. New tires (not great ones, but at least all the same size) can be had for around $200 for a full set last I checked.

Thanks for the tips guys. I am halfway through the job (lots of interruptions) and I've noticed a few things. It looks like my crank sprocket was off the mark by about one tooth with the marks on the cams lined up. I plan to turn it back and try to get all 3 in line. I had noticed some shimmy in my crank pulley when I bought the car. Once I got it off I notice the effect (or cause, not sure). The lower half of the pulley has worn right through the timing cover from rubbing against it. Big hole there. The L/R timing covers are messed up too, I had to pry them off as the bolts were spinning in the threaded part on the rear covers. Was able to find the inner/outer covers for the sides for $15 each (x4 = $60) but that sounded high so I didn't get them. Couldn't find a center one anywhere. I guess I am leaving them off for now. My leak is definitely from the center and not from the cams. I'm wondering if I should do the O-ring as well as the seal here or just try the seal and maybe save some time? I have to reinstall timing covers anyway when I get them, so if the seal doesn't solve my problem, then I can do the O-ring. Or will I need yet another seal if I do the O-ring later? The "front crank seal" I had so much trouble sourcing in town appears to be the "oil pump seal" that I was able to find. It fits around the crank in the oil pump assembly. Is there another crank seal I should be replacing? A couple shops say they had crank seals at $20-30 each. Any trick to removing the oil pump? Seems like it's got a nice layer of RTV back there and I wasn't able to pry it off before dinner.

Have you verified that the newly installed thermostat is operating properly? If engine temp is up to 245 and coolant in the radiator is still the temp of outside air, something has got to be blocking coolant flow. Either air pockets or a defective thermostat. Easiest check is get a temperature probe (eg your hand) in/on the upper radiator hose and see if it heats up with the engine.

So after doing some more research I am really concerned about scratching something like Blitz did. Appears that after that one F-up he learned how to do the other seals but I am hoping to avoid the F-up. Blitz: if you're out there, have you noticed it leaking? If anyone who has made one of these tools can send/post a digital pic that would be awesome. I am thinking I will wrap it with electrical tape or bike handlebar tape to prevent scratching at the fulcrum, but I haven't even taken the thing apart yet so I don't know what I'll be looking at. I'm also wondering about using an apoxy and pieces of a coat hanger to cement some handles onto the seals and pull them out that way. Maybe too oily for epoxy to stick? Maybe too risky to get a drop of epoxy on the block wall? This would be like the drill/screw method but without the risk of abrasion. It looks like I will just replace everything while I'm in there including water pump, seals, T-belt, unless anyone thinks I have good reason to leave the T-belt or water pump or.....?

I have read some of the other cam/crank seals threads but didn't find the answer to the following: Is there any real danger to driving the car with the seal blown, provided I keep oil in it? Seems like the answer is no, except the timing belt might slip, disabling (but not destroying) it. When I bought the car the previous owner said a mech told him the cam seals needed to be replaced. He didn't know much about cars so he may have meant crank seal. Anyway, I am convinced that one or both of these is now pretty much gone. My car recently starting leaking much more oil in the middle of a 500 mile (round trip) vacation. I had to drive it home, and I made sure oil was in it the whole time. The puddle on the ground is small but the underside of the engine is pretty well coated, leaking out of the timing belt cover, apparently from all along the bottom of the cover. I hope to get to this job this weekend, and I plan to replace: whatever seals are leaking (cam, crank) timing belt oil pump or seal (which?) water pump The car has 260k on the clock but supposedly it had a transplant at 200k with a semi-used engine. Maybe 30k. No records on repairs and I doubt the previous owner fixed anything unless it was broken. Thanks!

I would agree that it sounds like your clutch is not engaging. Your car *might* (I am not sure) have a hydraulic activated clutch so there may be no cable to adjust. You might have to add hydraulic fluid, or replace a snapped cable depending on your system. My car has a similar problem - the clutch engages at the very top of the pedal throw and slips if I mash the gas pedal. It's probably not engaging all the way and I need to tighten the cable so the clutch engages lower in the pedal throw (and hence, has engaged fully when my foot is off the clutch, so no more slipping). I haven't had time to adjust it but there is a nut/bolt setup near the pedal to tighten it, or so I hear. Mine is a 90 legacy BTW.

I hate to be capt. obvious but.... My 90 legacy whistles at idle too. Once I start moving it goes away. However, it goes away when I turn the interior fan off! You guys mention AC... but what about the regular venting system?

Do what I did, buy a set of stock WRX wheels with tires on them and upgrade to 16s. Looks great There is only about a 2-3% difference in size, so your speedo won't be too whack. I got my set with decent tires on them for $200, and you can sometimes get them cheaper depending who is selling them. If you are set on getting OEM size with your wheels, bridgestone is actually running a mail in rebate offer. For the 950s, you get $75 back on the set. Here's the link to bridgestone site/store locator. This deal is also available at tirerack.com but they only have the blizzaks in the OEM size. http://www.bridgestonetire.com/index_bs.asp Credit for the rebate offer goes to cyrus4u on slickdeals.net

I don't know how far away you live but it's very noisy. I would recommend a tow but that's just a recommendation. I drove it to and from work which is like 15 mi each way in this condition. Oh, and I was driving VERY gently and slowly - we're talking 35mph in 5th! It has the pushbutton 4WD on the shifter knob. When I was recently shopping for my new ride I never saw any dual range 4WD newer than like 1984. Most people selling 4WD drive subarus didn't even know what the hell I was talking about when I asked. But they weren't members of this forum either.

Well I'm not "sure" because I never bought the O2 sensor to replace it and noted that the parts matched, so I guess it could be. However, I did replace the O2 sensor on my 88 and it was installed in exactly the same place and at the same angle into the cat as this thingy is in the 82's cat. Is it possible that this is something like a glow plug to help the cat burn excess fuel? Of course I can't go look at it now because it's sold but this makes me all kinds of curious. And why would they install a temperature probe in the exhaust? (obviously to see how hot it is, but why would that matter?)

Yeah, I will be able to get the filter off somehow. On my 90 Legacy I actually had to drill through the filter and stab a screwdriver through the hole to get it off, so I will find a way. I was just in a hurry to get it out of my garage that day. But it's a good point and I have an extra filter sitting around anyway. Compression is low on one of the cylinders. I'm pretty sure I was getting the same compression when I bought the car so that was a pre-existing problem - I think unrelated to the noise which appeared suddenly. Is it possible that a crank journal slipped off and the piston rod is slapping agains the crank? Yes this is the car on craigslist for $300. Interested? I am negotiable of course The clutch I did notice feels "gritty" when I push on the pedal. It grabs hard, I think harder than before this happened. I was wondering about a couple bent fingers or something. Ok, say the oil pressure IS low. Given that my compression is "ok" could it be anything else besides the pump (or a gaping hole somewhere)?

upon closer inspection I am pretty sure it was the engine that was replaced, and I am pretty sure it's not an EA82 Y-pipe because the down pipes are not the same height (on the pass. side there is a bracket mounted between the block and the down pipe, driver side there isn't). I was told at a subaru-only junkyard that this was an 82 special (1982, not EA82) and that all the other soobs were different. If it were an EA82 exhaust on an EA81 engine, what would the other end of the wire go to? Anyway, phychotron bought the car and I hope it gives him many happy miles:D

That is totally weird. I assume this is the original exhaust on the car because of the rust induced leaks that were present when I bought it. However I went to the junkyard looking for parts and found a complete exhaust, with the cat, so I bought it. This is unusual because it's illegal for the junkyard to sell used cats. Anyway, there was no place in that exhaust set up for an O2 sensor. It didn't fit on my car so I used it for scrap. I do remember that the car I pulled it from was a 4WD model while I have 2WD. Is it possible that only the 2WD drive cars of this era had the O2 sensors? It is carbuerated BTW

I sent you a PM with phone #

Thanks for all the help everyone. I did pull the engine and gear oil and found no bits of metal in either (possibly something in the bottom of the oil pan which I felt with my finger, but no metal splinters like I was expecting). I couldn't get the oil filter off and couldn't find the filter wrench (embarrassing) so I just replaced the fluids and put in some Lucas stuff to no avail, the noise is still there. Last night some creepy guy came over cause he thought he wanted to buy it. He said it was definitely a rod and he wasn't interested. I realized after he left that this is an OHC engine so there aren't any rods (right?). I will check the oil pressure as recommended but I dunno - wouldn't my oil light come on if it wasn't pumping? Cause the oil light is definitely off now that I filled it back up again.

Well, there is one. Sorry but you're misinformed. It looks more like a spark plug though, the wire is not attached to the sensor, it plugs on almost exactly like a spark plug.

This is really funny to find this here cause that's MY ad - I am selling the car. I didn't put in the ad that the previous owner bought it when it was 3 yrs old and owned it for 16 years. He took good care of it (mechanically) and I did a few more things to it since I bought it. Since you're obviously doing your research, I'll give you some more info about it. When I bought this car I started using it to deliver pizzas. Ok, so pizza delivery can be hard on a car, right? Well I always made sure it had oil and coolant and I never had a problem. Regular oil changes too. It had an exhaust leak when I bought it and I drove it like that for a while, recently I had the leaky part TIG welded (thank you craigslist) and now it runs quiet again. While I was on said road trip, there were many days I traveled 350+ miles stopping only to eat or go swimming. Again, the car was fine, and it didn't overheat when I was driving from LA to vegas and it was 122 degrees in Baker, CA. You can easily find CHEAP parts for these cars at the Pull-A-Part junkyard in lynnwood (or everett). I got those brake calipers there for $6.50, axle shafts are $18.50. Basically I think it's a solid car and cheap too. I'm flexible on the price, I expect to haggle whenever I buy or sell on craigslist. Anyway... you're all entitled to an opinion, but if you're interested in the car just come test drive it and see if you like it. PS the O2 sensor is basically ON the cat on this car. If you aren't a mechanical guy just buy the part and I will install it for you pre-sale. I'll haggle a little less, of course :-)