RallyKeith

http://www.endwrench.com

Turbo cams in a Non-Turbo engine gives you less power. Let me give you some background. A normally aspirated engine works on a Scavanging effect. What happens, is that as the piston is being pushed up to let the exhaust gas out, the moment before the piston reaches the top, the intake valve opens. This is what's called overlap. What happens is that the air rushing out of the exhaust valve acts like a vaccum and pulls the fresh air in from the intake valve, thus allowing more fresh air in for combustion and more power. In a turbo car you are forcing the air into the cylinder chamber. So, as the piston is moving up and pushing the exhaust out of the open exhast valve you don't want to open the intake valve. If opened the intake before the exhaust valve was closed all the turbo boost pressure would blow through and you would lose pressure. That's why turbo cars feel so dead before the turbo comes on. Their cams are ground with little to no overlap, so until the boost comes up they don't get the scavanging effect and therfore less clean air to burn, less power. So putting a turbo cam into a non-turbo car would give you noticabaly less power. Like calebz said, delta cams are the way to go. http://www.deltacam.com/ Keith

Not one, but TWO TSBs on the general subject. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ClutchInfoWin04.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ClutchPedal.pdf They were published mainly because when this happens the pedal can stick to the floor and has to be pulled out for it to function correctly, but if read the articles it also talks about the spongy feel. They seem to heavily blame the hose and the slave, but also say you may need to replace the master. Also, from what we just went through two weeks ago, it seems the dealer is the only place to get parts. Keith

Wow! That even looks like one in the picture!!!!! I think I know what I'm doing.

NEPA has been running up in the back parking lot of the Frackville mall for few years now. Next event is sunday the 22nd. http://www.nepa-scca.com/solo2schedule.html Duryea Hillclimb is a Solo 1 event (Copetition preped cars with roll bars and what not) and is held in Downtown Reading. Race starts at the base of Duryea Drive, races up pas the Pagoda, and finishes at the Fire Tower on Skyline drive. http://www.pahillclimb.org/Courses/Reading.htm Keith

http://www.mcmaster.com search for "left hand thread screw" and you'll get some options. I don't think that you are going to find something like that at a local store. Keith

You can always use more grip, but on the surfaces you're running on (Hello Frackville!) going to a more traditional autocross tire would only eat away at your wallet. The biggest thing is really just good traction and being smooth. Try playing with the tire pressures to get better grip. Going up in pressure is usually the way to go, but at some point you will hit a wall. FWIW, When is the next autocross up there? Alos, next weekend is Duryea Hillclimb in Reading, and my brother and I will out in our Impreza Rally Car. Keith

Sorry, but I think there are legal issues such as copyright. If you made one for yourself I'm sure no one would care, but selling it makes it a problem. If you want one yourself, just cut a piece of sheetmetal to size and paint it blue. Then find an image somewhere of what you want and take it to a local graphics shop. They should be able to make you a sticker any size based on that image that you can then apply to your painted metal plate. Simple, isnt it. Keith

The tranny you found should work fine. The only thing that change around was final drive ratio. This was copied from another thread and supplied by Legacy777 90-94 MT non-turbo trannies had 4.111 final drive ratio 90-91 AT non-turbo trannies had 4.111 final drive ratio 92-94 AT non-turbo trannies had 3.900 final drive ratio 91-94 MT & AT turbo trannies had 3.900 final drive ratio Keith

STOP DISCUSSING THE RIGHTS AND WRONGS OF SEATBELTS! People, we all have our opinions, idea, and sources of information. A discussion on wearing seatbelts is not for this forum, nor the question that was asked. If you want to argue about please go do it in off topic. As for the questioned problem I can't help, and it is simply because I don't know and not for personal reasons. Respecfully, Keith

Any model and Year Legacy, Impreza, Forester, or Baja will fit. They all have the same lug pattern and offset. Lots of people put WRX rims on because they can be had cheap. Keith

Exactly what he said. You car exerts a certian force on the tire. The tire pressure must then be set, based on that force, to the correct pressure to give the tire the correct contact patch for max performance and tread life. Keith

What kind of car is it?

This kit is something you buy at the dealer?

Um Nope. I have a 93 Impreza with the EJ18 in it (first year for the motor in the states) and it does not have a distributor. Keith

Ah ha! See I had no idea they had such a thing. I've never even touched a newer automatic. Everything I've always had was stick other than my old FWD GL. As for that filter, I take it they have lines running to the radiator so just cut one and add that in? Keith

The first time I met him, the other guy who's name slips my mind right now, I asked him for a part that Mark gave me a price on and told me it was in stock. He told me that there was no such thing and even if so they didn't have it. He wisened up after that, and now he knows when he sees me that I know what I'm talking about.

Mine drives a Loyale Station wagon. He's had that for about two years now. Before that he had a late 80's coupe. That's why I love my local Subaru dealer. Steve Moyer Subaru. Talk to mark in Parts about the older cars and he knows what you're talking about. Keith

Well then. Now that I know that there is just no excuse for not changing the fluid on a regular basis. The "dealer" we bought the car from doesn't deal specifically in Subaru, but he got help starting the buisness from the local dealer ship. He said he changes fluid in the subaru tranyies every third or fourth oil change. If it's a simple as the manuals I'd have to agree. Cheap insurance for something we all know can be problematic. Thanks, Keith

Uh, unless I'm missing something there is no such thing. I believe the filter is located in the trans and is accesable by dropping the pan. It should look like this. Thanks to the folks @ http://www.thepartsbin.com for which I've linked the image temporarily. Keith

Isn't it amazing how good WRX Wheels look on anything but a WRX? I have a set on my 95 Legacy Wagon and it just makes a ton of difference. Looks good! Keith

So, We bought this 93 Impreza sedan for my step-father to drive, and it has an AWD 4EAT. It runs good, but it has 134,000 miles on it. I'd like to change the filter in the trans to be safe, but I've never worked on one before. How hard is it to replace, and what other parts might I need other than just the filter? Thanks, Keith

You mean these? :-\

Having good grounds is always a good thing. As for creating more power it's possible, but not probable. Some of these grounding kits add grounds that weren't originally there. The idea is to create the shortest, and least resistive path for the engine to get to ground. That in turn should allow for a tiny bit better spark, but nothing that you would feel in the seat. People commonly install these kits and claim to feel a difference, when in reality simply cleaning up the existing dirty and rusty grounds would have given the same effect. I think what you've already done is plenty. Keith

Nope, EJ22 Has always been SOHC to the best of my knowledge. I know from the begining until at least 97 they were all SOHC. The EJ22T may have been DOHC, but I've never really looked at one. So the question still remains, what internally changed if anything? I've noticed that in stock form my car really has no pull past about 5250, so maybe it's a practicality thing. Keith