555Ron

2nd fuel pump is near the passenger side rear wheel arch. If you poke your head under the drivers side rear wheel, in front of the wheel... look driectly across and you will find a filter there. This is also where the pump is. There is a guard for the pump so it is a little hidden. A torch will be your ally, use the force and goto it. (this is on my EA82... i think your car will be the same.)

Sounds like an excessive charge. I would be reading it its last rites and getting rid of it. Some of the cheaper batteries will fail quickly. Also, when leaving the car for extended periods the battery should be left fully charged. It might have a faulty cell which means the charger and alternator will work non stop to recharge it... though it never will.

Clogged Carbie Jets/fuel line - Replace fuel filters Fouled spark plugs/worn spark plugs and plug leads Check Dizzy cap, rotor and timing. Thats all i can think of...

If you took the cam tower off, the cam tower O-ring 100% must be replaced. It's a high pressure O-ring so you will be losing a fair bit of oil. An OEM Subaru O-ring is a must as is a suitable high temp sealant around the cam tower. Then don't overtorque the cam bolts too much that the sealant squeezes out... ...my $0.02

Hi there, I'm from Maitland:). Never thought i'd find someone this close to me. Does it run smoothly on the unloaded but rough on the LPG? Anyway, i have NFI... I just wanted to say hello. Yeah, Brats = Brumby, XT = Vortex, Loyale = Leone, Legacy = Liberty, from what i have worked out.

I put some Bi-Tron additive in my car which made similar claims. Biggest bunch of tossers ever to deal with (half order, was promised things which 2 months later have yet to arrive!). Put it in my engine, you know... noisy tappets (2). Well, after the treatment they are all noisy. I have a gearbox treatment and an unused engine treatment i got spare also. I am so pissed with their "customer service" and attitude + the product didn't work... it won't go near my Sube... heck not even my whipper snipper! If anyone wants it - you pay postage and its yours. Additives are risks imo. Just do it right, rebuild if necessary. The oil manufacturer has done the job to lubricate the engine... nothing else is required. But Bi-Tron made big claims it was worth a shot, now my mind is made up. 100% pure oil in my crankcase and trans! http://www.bi-tronaustralia.com/page3.html - Heres a link if you want to figure if this additive if different to the XADO. P.s. its nice to have a company rep here helping us out... but marketing is all about making you think you need products you really don't have a use for. Sure, if it worked... sign me up, but its going to take a lot of arse licking to get me there:cool:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=8 Its a metallic tick... right? Get a screwdriver, stick it on your engine and hold the plastic to your ear to track it down. It may be piston slap or something real bad... but hopefully its the tick of death.

Here's a list to start you off. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32721 I personally wouldn't recommend using the injector cleaners as they can do more harm then good. The MAF sounds like a good place to start, check the computer (?) see if it can shed light on the situation. Does it run nice when it warms up? I'd love an A/C... why are you going to get rid of it? Check the front timing belts haven't jumped a cog or been installed incorrectly, the plugs, plug leads, rotor, rotor cap... anyway, that thread should keep you busy.

Get a thermostat in there ASAP. Running your engine cold will wear your engine more then running it too hot. Oil needs to be at the right temp before it flows and lubricates correctly. I would recommend you get a working thermoswitch and have a automatic fan. Don't skip on the cooling in these cars, its just not worth it.

Are they on a commission? Unless you know them real well, i wouldn't trust parts guys. I've worked with them, they sometimes would tell half truths to get things off the shelf that weren't first rate imo. Best idea is to ask a mechanic for advice. They're qualified to have an opinion.

Take the distributor cap off. Check the cap, the leads... turn the engine over and see if the rotor moves freely... check the condition of the rotor, replace the cap. Report your findings...

:lol:Older generation refers to older Subaru's. (L-Series) Welcome to the board. You will find like minded people in the New Generation section of the forum with your car.

Remove distrubutor cap, crank engine. If the rotor doesn't move, you have broken the drivers side timing belt. There are peep holes in the froont of the timing covers you can look through.. but it could be stripped which won't show up so well. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=24 You will have to be sure the drivers side is installed correctly so that piston #1 fires roughly at top dead centre. I believe it would be possible to install so it fires between valve openings... which will make it shoot flames out the carb. Just take the #1 plug and make sure the rotor is in the right position to fire at tdc

How much rego? An 82 Wagon, dual range four speed is worth $800-$1700 depending on condition and mileage. You can only ask him what he wants, haggle him down then figure out if its worth it. You can take the plates back in to the RTA and get some money back on that if it has rego on it.

Hi Russ, congrats on the new Sube. All those noises sound like a CV joint. You can tell if its an inner or an outer by the types of noises but i personally can't diagnose it. But it looks like that boot has been left too long, water has got in and now it will need to be changed. Get a new CV joint, not a refurbished one. They are pretty cheap these days. I believe the newer EA81 engines (after 82 or something) don't require the valve seating to be adjusted. It's probably the lifters that are noisy. You could try using an additive to stop noisy lifters, then doing an oil change. The Brumby's are all OHV engines. The tappets will be inside the block of the engine, either side of the camshaft journal. You can't adjust them, they do it themselves. The can get clogged up if you don't change your oil frequently enough and become noisy. I have an old Gregory's manual here. I lost it and bought another, then found it. If you want it... i can get it to you pretty cheap rather then buying a new one ($40)

Hi, i am wanting to paint my car also... i just found these two articles that might be of assistance... http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14930 http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15695

Oil Seals - much better quality not a must - waterpump, oems fit better

If you follow your transmission lines they will goto a heat exchanger in the radiator. If you car is running hot and you're giving to to the transmission (which you will in 4wd) then, personally i wouldn't be concerned (well, i would... but i would expect this imo). Since your car is running really hot then the radiator is going to struggle with the transmission and may even heat the oil. I'd think if you fix the radiator up, the tranny will be fine in the future. It'd be my first step, definately. I'm no expert on the matter... but this might shed a little light on the subject. You could also go a transmission cooler if it continues to do it in the future. This is just a radiator for the transmission fluid. Someone might have an opinion on this? The loss of power may be it going into fail safe mode. I'm not sure what you're ECU can do... ...Also, the Wagon i was talking about was actually my brothers (84GL Auto). He overheated it carrying wood up a mountain in 4wd... it had non Subaru parts in the cooling system which i was unaware of being my first Subaru. It took him a really long straight to get up to 60mph... so it was a big load of wood he had in the trailer. So, he boiled it... and the AT Temp light came on... he didn't know what it meant, so he kept going. When he got back the thing wouldn't shift into third. Well, he had taken it up there with low oil. Refilled it and it worked like new, but only when hot. So we had a service on the tranny, and the bloke said he had never seen so many metal shavings come out of a gearbox. Turns out my cousin, the previous owner had put it into Reverse while going 60mph accidently. He said it made quite a crunch. That car really impressed me... it was bloody tough little nut to crack (though it never did - sold it and the bloke took it across the desert of Aus...) p.s. I like to sit on the fence when i'm dealing with someone elses car incase you can't tell. Again, i'm no expert...

Oil temp? Is that the AT Temp light?

After reading do it sidewayz post, would it be advisable to pull the sump off and check the pick up for sludge? Though i would think this would result in low pressure?

Are you getting spark? It should threaten to run or backfire if your plugs are sparking. Check its connected to the coil and there is no shorts.

Bad luck with the timing belt... and having to drive a commodore. The part numbers for new belts (gates) is t299 and t300. They're about $80 (trade). I got a pair of Subaru belts for $100 (trade). So if you can get your Subie dealer to give you trade... because your mate gets stuff at trade (15-20% discount) - you could order in from the U.S. though postage is insane in most cases I just bought the majority of the oil seals + timing belts for around $220, if thats where you want to go. The water pump is not big deal to do later if the bearings are travelling ok. Get a dealer one though, i bought a powermax one and it just doesn't fit in snug with the timing covers like my old Subaru pump did. You also might want to do the PCV valve while you're doing this kind of maintenance. Last time i asked for one it was a 6 week order from Japan so you might want to get onto it quickly, though it won't be a hassle to do with the engine in the car. (if they can't find it tell them to look under the anti pollution section, it took them ages to get it for me) Good luck with it, hope its back on the road soon...

Change your oil... not your engine:cool:. Use quality products and your engine will reward you with a long, hassle free life. Good luck with it. I'd like to know what the dealer thinks.

I think Gen 3 heads refers to the third generation of EA82 heads. There was a tendancy for the heads to crack around the valves so they may have been modified to help avoid this...

I wouldn't say this is normal, but i do not own an EA71. My EA82 goes out when the engine starts. There are two things i can think of that may cause this. A low oil level, pop the bonet on level ground, get the oil dipstick out, clean the oil off, replace it back into the engine, pull it out and check the level. Its its low top up immediately. The other would be a cheap oil filter without an anti drain back valve so when you shut down the car all the oil drains to the sump, so it takes a while for the pump to suck the oil back up from the sump and get pressure through the system. An OEM oil filter will work best. Thats all i've got, someone else might know more... but its a start.