555Ron

I believe I have seen that some North American Brats came out of the factory with hill holder. (could be wrong) I have a hill holder unit out of an L series. I have the gearbox out of the same car to go into my Brat - so I have a clutch fork to suit. However, I don't think any Brat in Australia came out with the hill holder installed from the production line. So, is there anyone out there that has done it? The Australian Brat has the brake booster and master cylinder on the opposite side to the North American model. It comes out with three lines - with one going into what I assume to be a proportioning valve with two outputs. What I am hoping to do is remove this and install the hill holder here as it has one input and two outputs. But I'm not sure if it will have the proportioning valves to suit my car. The local brake shops don't really know how the work and I don't want to play with my brakes if I'm doing something that has not been done before. Cheers...

Has anyone used Milea Auto Group Parts? SubaruPartsForYou.com won't deal with international customers whereas Milea will. Or, alternatively another online store that is reputable and will post internationally. Cheers, Ron.

Idasho - they're the UK/Aus term for wrist pins. I have them all out now thanks.

A bit of googling and i found Subaru make a special tool to do it but it's uber expensive. I ended up bending the tip of a long flat blade screwdriver 90 degrees and with a lot of prying got #1 and #3 out. Hopefully i'll get #2 and #4 out tomorrow and split the block...

Is there any trick to getting the gudgeon pins out? Couldn't see any in this thread. Mine are being very stubborn. I have removed the front pins out of pistons one and 3 and can't get either to move. I stuck a pair of long nose pliers up the center and pushed them apart to try and grip it but they don't want to budge. Sprayed heap of lubricant in there too. This whole motor has been mighty stubborn!

dry radiator means there won't be any smoke. Dry radiators will also rust because they dry out and the anti rust chemicals are no longer there. Rust = blockages. So, lets say, new radiator, New HG (possible cracked head - new head...), couple new tappets, engine reseal(oil pump) and well , you may as well whack on new timing belts. $450 sounds like a lot of money for a trashed car that needs work. Just my $0.02.

Hi, replaced my pcv a couple of weeks ago, now i want to put some Subaru cleaner through it. Does anyone have a pic of which hose to put it in? Or do you just shove it down the carb (don't want to do that myself)? Is it recommended you change the oil after cleaning, if so, how long? Thank you.

Any decent Subaru wrecking yard. I have one here... but it goes with the car, and its priceless! (86 Leone) Not a lot in it, anything you want to know? Or do you just want to complete your car?

Is this carbed? My 86 has a manual choke on it. If you press the accelerator before starting it will rev high when you start it, to disable it after you have started it, just tap the accelerator again. Can't explain the 4k rpm though unless this was after starting?

Ahh... she'll be right.

Hi, just to clarify what is written above. The ea82 is referred to as single overhead cam. It does have twin cams, one each sitting above the heads on the side... but there is only one camshaft operating the 2 valves per cylinder. Subaru calls this SOHC... as it is equivalent to a sohc on an inline 4.

I can't past the the security on ausubaru. Either its a well designed security system (it keeps me out:)) or there is something wrong with it... Its the second one i think. Running zone alarm, NAV2005, Mozilla firefox.

Newcastle, NSW. Stock Leone:rolleyes:

Umm, that pinging is detonation. You might want to run Premium gas, and have the timing adjusted back asap. You will kill the engine in no time if you don't fix it. It is a rapid, uncontrolled detonation of the fuel, it is like a big hammer hitting the heads, it is very hard on the engine components and will melt valves etc as it is much hotter then a normal fire and controlled burn. I think your head gaskets are fine. Heads is cracked is more likely - would fit in well with the pinging.

Don't be silly, you have my respect:)

Just to add to the post of Subarian, check your hoses. There are 5. The two on the radiator, one bypass on the pump, and two hidden under the spare tyre that connect to the firewall. Find leaking coolant = a white powder. If you find the leak, you solve your problem.

Got to agree with Indrid here. The garage you went to is the root of your problems. The waterpump issue is amazing, and they should have worn that! They do make a tidy little sum on the parts they supply (buy at trade - sell to you at retail), maybe this is why things needed replacing - $355 might have been minus the margin on the parts. Maybe is time to start wrenching yourself. Some times it can be fun, others a pain in the arse, but always rewarding - and much cheaper! Here's to a more prosperous 2006 for your Subie, good luck!

Misfire/missing on one cylinder every now and then??

around the 180 mark

I am contemplating buying a 4wd gen 2 touring wagon (4wd). I am thinking i should do the EJ swap just to see if it can be done. What parts do i need to do the swap? What sort of budget am i looking at minus motor, and how much work? I am getting laid off in a couple of weeks and thought this might keep me entertained for a while. I am wanting to do the EJ22 swap, will the turbo EJ22 fit. I'm old gen Sube at the moment, so i'm not sure if the ej22 is dohc turbo, single ohc turbo or available in both. Will they all fit? Does the air conditioning and powersteering bolt in between ea81 and ej22? And i want a manual transmission, does this come from the donor vehicle, or do i use the gen 2 box? I was hoping for a full time 4wd (With the Aussie dual range they sell in the outbacks), am i kidding myself? I wanna drag off honda civics in my old beat up Sube! Finally, i know you have to make your own (i think engine mounts... or flywheel?) parts, what is involved with this. Are plans available on the internet? Thanks in advance. Tomorrow i go Sube hunting:cool:

A girl that can weld, just what i need!

Ok, i'd get the 87, but its a personal choice. TOD - tapping sound of ea82 (85-94 old generation subaru engine) hydraulic lash adjusters/oil pump/general lubrication system tick that tell you that the lubrication system is on its way out. They will still run forever like this, once you hear it you will know it, its a metallic tapping sound. EA71, 1.7L ovh engine, used to 1984 in Subarus. EA81 =1.8, ea61, = 1.6l etc. EA82, 1.8l ohc engine, used 1985 - 1994 in old generation style vehicles except for utilities which used the ea81 in all years. Legacy, impreza are classified as new gen or MY series, and use EJ** class engines where ** is engine capacity in litres. Its an Ohc engine with one timing belt (ea82 had dual belts) and fuel injected (all australian versions are, overseas may be different)

Its been done before. You should be able to search for it. The overwhelming favourite was the ej22, lots of power, no hassles. I don't see why any other ej bar the ej25 would cause issues, as long as its a pre 1997 vehicle.

The firing order is different on a boxer to an inline (i think). The motor is 2 banks of two cylinders at an angle of 180 degrees., kind of like a "vee" engine but the motor is flat. This means the exhaust system is very different to anything else, which goes part of the way to the distinctive sound.

The heater core is on the left in the Aus model. If you take your spare tyre out of the hood you will see the hoses going into it. If i was you i'd put a heavy duty coat in the car and bypass the heater permanately... i've not done it and i would rather die of hypothermia then change the heater unit. I have a gregory's here i could mail to you for a lend to do the job... purely out of sympathy. Its right under the dash, looms here, hoses there... sorry to sound pessimistic, the job can be done.