555Ron

I'm always amazed at the labour rates in America. In Australia my mechanic will charge me $45 an hour (Aus$ - say $35 American) and at this rate i do the work myself. We are currently having trouble getting people to take up trades, i bet if they could charge that much they wouldn't. My 20 cents is fix it yourself, its a weekends work and $100 worth of parts. Taking the timing covers and belts off is no big deal.

Do a compression check. You must have stuffed the installation of the rockers or something, maybe you will have to tear it down again?? Thats really strange...

Sounds like wheel bearings. Does it change or clunk when you turn? Go from full lock one side to full lock the other and listen for noises.

If you want the part no. it is for the one on the left it is: 15066AA000 I have the sucker in my hand with the Subaru logo on it. You can't go wrong if you order that one.

Have you broken a coolant hose? I wouldn't drive the thing. They have a water temperature sender - no water - no warning... and you'll be after a new engine in no time. Smoke is a bad sign. Check all fluid levels (trans, diffs, oil, coolant) and the colour of them.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/subrepair.htm

The boxer engine first appeared in Subaru's parent companies planes. Forced to be split apart after Japanese defeat, 6 of the companies formed together (6 stars) and created the 360. Hardcore Subaru fans will never admit the car was copied off the VW/Porsche... well, at least i'm still in denial.

Well, i'd say just get an ea81T and drop it in. I can see you spending thousands and not getting the performance you wanted, or not getting anything.

Yeah, you could start a big argument on break in procedure. Don't ever give it revs when its cold. I'm fairly sure prodrive (Subaru's rally car producers) use a normal break in procedure, so i'd stick with that. You do (imo - and most others) want to load the engine up when it is being run in (when hot)... so high gear, high acceleration, steep hill... and keep the revs below... say 3000rpm?? The extra force of the high energy explosions help seal the rings while not putting too much force on the engine that high rpms will give. The better your rings are sealed, the better the mileage. You could always buy a motorbike:drunk:

Yes, they have a prototype similar to the Prius, but its a very small car. Can't recall the name. And then there is this... http://www.subaru.com.au/news/?newsid=12316

Hmm, i have an 87 Loyale 2wd. What sort of cars can be donors (wagons? XT's?, XT6's?, SVX's?), what parts do i need, and how much work is it to get the handbrake cable on the rear?

That got me thinking. I decided after looking at the photos he meant ea82, not 1982.

I have an Australian Leone. It's the handle below the vent that is causing the problem. Flick it up like he said, if you keep getting outside air then the mechanism is broken. It will source air from outside without going through the heater unit I love this description:cool: Make sure you look after it, all my friends bag it... but i absolutely love it and use the most expensive parts i can find. Only the best for my car:)

Absolutely none. Non interference engine. You get a new belt on it and it will go better then before! Just make sure 1. piston 1 fires at the correct time. 2. the belts are installed so they are 180 degrees out from each other (1 dot points up, other sides dot points down)

Sounds like an air lock in the cooling system. If you haven't changed the coolant for a while - perhaps a head gasket. Do a full service of the cooling system first.

burocracy:rolleyes:. Camelwagon is also trying to find out where that hose should go. Someone has put it there to block the pipe. I think it may be the pcv valve... can anyone confirm this and help him reconnect it?

Yeah, the NGK's are a better plug. Not many would recommend using Bosch. Check the obvious, has one come loose from the pressure. Have you got the leads in the correct order? If not, go buy some regular NGK's. These don't need platinums, they're used for engines whose designs require a days work to change the plugs because of poor design. Making them the very much cheaper option.

It has to be on the car. Local laws dictate where it is located. Pop the bonet, open it. On the rear wall of the engine bay there may be a plate similar to the one displayed above.

A bubble wouldn't be unusual after a flush of the block. I'd think your HG are fine. Don't bother with a pressure test. If the water only has water, the oil only has oil and your not burning too much oil... keep driving. Basically, just keep an eye on it. I wouldn't stress at all. Everything seems to be easily explainable now you've sucessfully flushed it.

I'd recommend replacing the thermoswitch if it is the cause. Its better to run the engine at the correct temperature, the combination of a thermoswitch and thermostat do this very well. You may also want to connect the fan directly to the battery to see if the motor is still good in the fan. I've had one wear out.

Thanks for that. I did a flush on an older vehicle that does, so i assumed the Subaru would have one on the heater unit.

A nut near the exhaust y pipes on each head. I think you need a hex bolt to undo it. I took the thermostat off, did a reverse flush of the block. Turned the heater on, disconnected the hoses and did a flush of it. Worked well, but i'm not 100% it would completely flush the cooling. I think it could be a HG, but as a last resort!

OEM Subaru by far. If you do your research you can find the manufacturers of Subaru's parts and get them a little cheaper if money is tight. IMO, non genuine parts are not worth the money you pay for them for my experience. My waterpump is 1/8" too small for the timing covers. Subaru parts are the only thing to go onto my car from now on.

Really? My owners manual suggests 5w30, but says it is not recommended for continuous high revs/loads/temps. So i put 10w40 in mine

the filter is on the passengers side near the tank, under the car. Car off - clip it out, note direction of filter, undo lines, insert new filter lines noting the arrow direction, reclip... test drive. Your done. EA81's will have another filter in the engine bay.