555Ron

Nah, the SVX is the SVX in both countries. Its something you won't miss on the roads. Vast amount of glass and a not so typical Subaru look. I don't think they made it into the double digits in Australia, so you gotta be lucky to see one.

I like the challengers. I have seen something very, very similar on an XA GT alan moffat replica. They look very nice in the flesh.

A gen 2 Loyale. Call them Leones in Australia. and the Vortex is an XT, i think the turbo model is a vortex XT... not sure though.

Have you changed the plugs? My fathers Mazda was making funny noises and not going to well. The plugs were the original and had done 120,000kms. Problem solved.

Hi, if you send me a PM with your email address, i will email you the three pages going over the drums to you. I have a Gregorys manual, which i think is twice as good as the Haynes... but its an Australian book. The FSM is worth its weight in gold, but i don't have one. If you don't PM me, i will forget. It's too late to think at the moment. Hopefully this might fix your problem...

It's a cam to head O-ring gasket. And the oil pump can be a source of the noise as well as a cause of noisy lifters. More info, which is great read for anyone interested... found by someone on the board and bookmarked by me:drunk: http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/ea82_hydraulic_lifter_fix.htm

My old Ea81 Subes digital dash shut off twice while i owned it. The fix was to hit our steep driveway in reverse with a little speed and everything came back on.

Thanks guys. I'll do it at home this time and know where everything is, give the bolts a thorough clean up unlike last time. I've got an old school torque wrench, i'll give it a whirl. I'm using loctite aviation gasket sealer on the gasket. I'll get the inner cover off tomorrow and see whats happening. I'm a little concerned it might be the HG where the water is coming from.

Hi, a few months ago i installed an aftermarket waterpump. After completing installation i find i have folded the bottom of the gasket near the belt tensioner. Ok, no worries. Back to store, ask for another gasket. "Ohh, we don't sell them, we only sell pumps" Can't you just take a gasket out of one of the pumps and ask the supplier to give you another one... "No". Ok, over to Subaru for a gasket. Installed it, but now i find coolant dripping from the covers. I've removed the two sides but i don't have a socket to fit the main crank pulley to get the middle cover off which obscures the view. When i reinstalled the gasket, i used a gasket remover but it wasn't perfect. Should a get some sand paper and smooth it out. I mean, it was pretty darn good. The other thing i did was not tighten the bolts too much, maybe that? Or dirt has become trapped in the gasket...? The other thing i thought was maybe the pump doesn't quite fit the gasket (I can see the gasket poking out above the pump), as it doesn't fit in with the timing covers. I am very seriously considering buying a genuine Subaru pump. I am a little pissed at the mob who sold me the other pump.

Higher elevations have thinner air, so maybe this richened the mix and helped it run a little better.

oh, ok. My bad, sorry.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37207 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24203&highlight=ea82t+4000 Those were the topics i was speaking about

Of course it qualifies for old gen. Its got a loyale clutch in it, couldn't you tell? This bloke has been making custom projects for 20 years. He has no degree, just some know how and great ideas... and no text books getting in the way. He built it all so he could drive it on the road, but when he applied they said it was too crazy to drive on the road, i think he was a bit pissed off. It's a one and only, though he is thinking of making another that is for gravel for the race to the sky hill climb. Awesome machine... i really want one. It was actually at a World Rally round in NZ, the creator was they're talking to the WRC drivers. I bet they were both jealous of each others car:drunk:. I would have tested them both out to get an unbiased opinion of which was better.

The air suction valve can also be a cause. If you look at you two cylinder heads, where the exhaust joins there will be a small 1/2" pipe. This will be connected to the ASV. This joins to a black plastic silencer then to the air intake. This injects air into the burnt mixture to get air into the cat converter to help it burn hydrocarbons. If it is too rooted it will put too much air in and let air flow in both direction, causing a backfire. You can buy a genuine one from Subaru of America for $14, a replacement costs >$300 if you replace it with the original, but the cheap one will bolt up easily and work and last better. Only carbed, non feedback systems have this feature. Check it out first and PM me if you want the part number. Also, one of those things i forget the name of that hold the carb open after hard deceleration are meant to help also. The long manifold means the fuel can take a while to reach the cylinders and there is no air because of the closed carb so you have a very rich mix. Not sure how on the money this theory is, as others say it shouldn't backfire if the exhaust and engine are all working correctly

That is an absolute bargain! You could put 10 times the price on that and some noob would buy it

Hi, check for a blocked cat. There was another member with the exact same problem, and there was a lot written on the troubleshooting and theories. Do a search and you should find a wealth of info. Who put the EA82T into the brumby? Sounds like a deadly machine!

Mine does 110km/h in 2nd. Thats the max speed limit in Australia so it couldn't tell you how far past 140km/ it would go. But i would think faster then that, though the autos do go faster then the manuals, they just take longer to get there.

It should, but older cars tend to lose their grounds. Run a wire to somewhere with a good ground, like the water inlet pipe one the engine. I don't know what voltage the compressor clutch would like though... but try a ground first.

Welcome to the board. Have you tried the wreckers? Yes, car parts are expensive, you will learn that very quickly... but these cars don't need too many spares:cool:. This is the right section for you car.

a new driveshaft because of a torn boot? Suprised you didnt get the engine replaced because of the oil leak:-\. I'd find another mechanic... he seems to be taking you for a ride... and your paying big for it too!

This is why your car will run "hot" when you 4wd. It doesn't get so much air flow so it runs itself up to normal temperature. Then the thermo fan kicks in and this is what your car should run at. Running it cold isn't at all desirable, get a thermostat in there (maybe a 180) and get it running at the right temp.

I think it was around $11,000, no higher. Maybe if you fully optioned them up, but this is about the mark...

http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 This is the Factory service manual. It has the lubrication part, but it is not complete. A oil pump reseal may fix the noise. Its probably cause by oil pump sucking air, lifters not getting oil or clogged by bad oil, and there is a bolt/spring in the head that can go bad and cause the tick. You may have to take apart the lifters or run some lifter free up flush through it to fix the problem. You can only try...

What about the basics? Switch the spark leads around (on dissy and plugs!). Check rotor to cap connection on 1. Then check the valves by feeling for them while turning the engine slowly. From there i think it gets complicated.

Whats a refrigerator? How come you call them that? ...sorry, cultural barrier:banana: