TomRhere

I agree with heartless on the method of repair. Mines going to take much much more steel work to fix. That Black sound deadener stuff on the inside of the floor comes up fairly easy if you take a small hammer and just tap at it. May need a putty knife or simular tool in spots though. But for the most part it comes up easily.

Yeah, the low price told me something wasn't quite right, then the core charge threw up even more alarms. I had done a search for your post telling of price & no core charge, along with what the axles looked like and how tight the joints are. It won't be a pretty sight to behold if I go to get them and they aren't what they aree supposed to be. I'll give the horn pad another try during lunch today.

Okay,,, over Christmas weekend I swapped in the other steering rack. Also swapped steering columns so I can now have a key to start it instead of screwdriver. Pulled it out of the garage, then backed it back in so to let tires settle back in from being off the ground. Used the afore mentioned string method to somewhat align the front end. Put another set of tires on the front, again used ones but good ones. Took it out for a spin. Did have to pop the steering wheel off and re-center it as it was off a bit. BUT, the "I want to go left" thing is gone. I can relax my grip of the wheel and she goes straight on down the road. Been driving it to work this week, and she seems to be hella-better. Doesn't want to pull left, doesn't wander in the lane. But, it does feel a bit loose. It may just be that I've been driving the XT6 for the past few weeks, and I'm used to how it feels. Still waiting on a couple reaction rod bushings to arrive. Then I'll change those and the control arm bushings. Once that's done, it's tire and alignment time. Ordering both front drive axles thru Auto Zone, going for the GCK's that GD recommends. I can get them for $67.xx and $15.00 core each, or so the counter dude said. Believe me, they had better be what I'm paying for, and I told him that in a not so Mr. Nice Guy way.... I don't really like dealing with AZ. Do have a question here. How do you get the horn push pad back onto the steering wheel? I just cant seem to get the top spring clip to go on. What's the trick????

Thanks for the info on the Checker Relay, GD....... We now return this thread to your regularly un-scheduled Subaru problem. A couple other things I thought of today, Have your parking lights "on", and have an assistant hit the brakes. Do you "lose" either or both tail lights? Ifso, points towards a bad grounding of the light assembly(s). Actually, any "that light, shouldn't/should still, be "on" right now" type thing would point to bad grounding. In other words, any wierd lighting of lights = problem. Possible corrosion/bad connection in one of the connectors in the wiring heading back to the rear, and there's a few of them on a BRAT. 1. Behind the PS kick panel where the wiring leaves the dash. 2. Behind the "B" pillar trim panel on the PS. 3. Is found if you remove the PS rear lamp housing, the wire loom splits here to go to both rear lamp housings. 4. PS lamp housing. 5. DS lamp housing. Both #4 & 5 would only affect that particular lamp housing, or rather should only affect that side. Don't have color code for what wire is what , but I can get it. Got a spare wiring loom from an '86 out in the garage.

Check your fuses, check for battery voltage at the switch on the brake pedal. One side of that connector should be "hot" at all times, other side goes "hot" when pedal is depressed. Do you get the "Stop Lamp" warning light on the dash? That should light up if you have either one of the brake lights burnt out, or a bad connection to them. Just went thru the bad connection thing on mine when I swapped out the broken DS housing. Not real sure as to how it works, but there's a Stop Lamp Checker Relay in the circuit. Possibly something is amiss with that, but again, I don't know how it actually monitors the circuit. That relay is located behind the trim panel of the rear cab wall, and not real easy to get to.

quote Is there a web site that will match your bodies paint color and send you gallon or 5 cans of paint? I will spray the parts myself after I have mustered up a paint booth. end quote Any place that sells auto paint should be able to match the color, even make it match the sun-faded old paint look. Color code for paint should be on radiator support.

What I would do is remove the tube intirely from the engine, just so I could get a better look at the threads in the head. "If",,, they're not to messed up, you may be able to use a narrow straight-blade screwdriver to "chase" the threads. Patience is a requirement, slow and easy is the method. You are trying to remove the burrs on the original threads put there by the cross-threading. Once you have most of the burrs removed or smoothed down, try to start the fitting in. Baccaruda's suggestion of some down-force on the nut could be of benefit. Just be sure you have it straight with the threads, or you'll be right back where you are now. I have done that to threads in steel and in cast iron, so it should work on aluminum. Just have to be patient, and be mindfull of what you're doing, Can't be in a rush, nor can you go at it like you're chopping wood.

Been a couple years since I pulled the engine and related items out of a XT6, but I think I remember things right. All of the sensors are on the engine with the exception of the MAF on the air filter box. There's 2 big harness connectors under the hood, right behind the engine. Follow the engine side of those, and you'll find everything you need under the hood for the engine. I cut the main altenator wire at the fusable link box, thinking the other alt wires are in the main engine harness. You have to rip the PS and rear seat out to get to the ECU wiring. Wires run under carpet, and the fuel pump wiring is there also. Thinking the AC unit has to be pulled to get to where wiring goes thru firewall. There's some wiring that goes to the dash for things like check engine light, oil pressure, water temp, ignition and fuel pump relays, ignition switch (starter wire). I just followed the wires as far as I could from where they split off at the firewall pass-thru and cut them. You'll be splicing into those anyways. You'll need 2 relays and their connectors for ignition and fuel pump. There's a few of those located under where the console meets the dash Not sure right now which one is what, but it really don't matter as they're all the same, IIRC.... The wiring diagram shows a diode in the circuit(s) for the ign and fp relays. I don't know where it's located in the dash wiring, so I can't help you there. Adam, and subarubrat aren't using the diode in their rigs, and say they have no problems with running.

Other than the age factor, I don't think you would need to change the vent hose(s). One definately wants to change the supply hoses over to the FI rated hose. The return line hose(s) shouldn't really have any pressure on them, as the fuel is returning to tank and is just flowing thru the lines. Again, the age factor comes in on these as well. As for the question on the steel lines and how they run thru the vehicle... They pass thru the firewall, snake down the inside of the footwell area and run under the trim on the door sill on the lefthand side of the vehicle. The lines exit the interior under the back seat, or thru the backwall on BRATs Left rear brake line is there also. Right rear brake line runs down the rightside of vehicle in the same manner. I've ripped those lines out of an '86 BRAT, an '88 XT6, and an '86 Sedan that I've scrapped, all were ran the same way.

I agree.... Around here, that $230 might get you the intake and assorted goodies attached to it.

I replied to the other thread, but here you go. Prices don't look to bad to me. Found a listing for some parts here, http://www.1autobodyparts.com/productlist.cfm?model_id=622&make_id=41&browse=tru e&type=all

I'm thinking a partialy plugged heater core myself. You say that you flushed it, but it still could have some blockage. Get the engine up to temp, put heat setting on high, and fan on high. Feel both of the heater supply hoses. Should be somewhat cooler on the return hose, but not alot cooler. If it is way cooler, you have a blockage in the heater core. To slow of a flow of coolant thru the core will allow it to cool off to much, hence the not so warm heater. Both my current '86 BRAT and '88 XT6 run right at the 1/2 way mark for temp, even on the few cold days we've had here, temps in the high teens. In my old '86 BRAT, (RIP), after installing new 2 core radiator and T-stat, I could see the T-stat open/close on the gauge while driving down the road on real cold days, temps near 0*. That was kinda freaky when I 1st noticed it, like WTH is going on now???? Still had good heat out of it though. My '82 BRAT had an EA-82 engine in it, had good heat out of it too, even before having to swap in a new core due to old one springing a leak. Not a fun job.

Can't tell from the pic that GD posted, (just can't see the bracket clearly), but is there enough steel at the 2 mounting holes to slot them so there's less twist on the rear mount rubber? And GD, looks like you lost a nut in that pic....

There's a "T" fitting on the HH bracket, that's for one circuit of the brakes. I left that "T" alone, other than un-bolting it from the HH. I took another "T" and put the lines from the HH to that. I can snap a pic of it on Saturday if you want one. I still need to fab some sort of bracket to hold both "T"'s, but it's a simple fix.

Sounds just like my '86 BRAT, stock ride height, tires, ect... Shimmy happens around 55-60 MPH, plus I'm wearing out PS tire. Tie-rods, ball-joints are new, can find no play in control arm, or radius rod bushing. Had Son move steering wheel while I checked things out underneath. Found play in PS inner tie-rod, not a lot, but it's there. Has to be cause of shimmy. Waiting on a couple parts to arrive, then I'll be swapping in another rack. Inner tie-rods are available for replacement, but I have never done one, so can't say how easy/hard that is to do.

My oldest Daughter went thru something like this recently. Heather ran into a a guy, wasn't paying attention to the road. Anyways, a couple weeks went by and this guy starts claiming of neck pain, and that his car is not capable of being driven due to the damage from the accident. I took a picture of Heather's car, and found the guys car sitting at a local bar. Can't be driven, yeah right!! Got all the info from the Police report, so I had his addy and such. Took a pic of the rear of his car, and a wide shot of where it was sitting. He he he!!! Needless to say, he changed his story after his insurance company got a copy of the pics along with Heather's insurance, and my Lawyer. Only damage to Heather's '96 Pontiac GrandAm, was a paint scuff just above where the Black plastic grille inserts are. Didn't even crack one of those, and there brittle as all get out. Was some crumpling to the rollpan under the bumper of his car, but nothing to "keep the car from being driven". So yeah, pics and Lawyer are in order. Even if you just talk to the Lawyer to get a bit of help as to what to do now. And "crash bumpers" are only meant for parking lot type accidents, hence the name of 5mph crash bumpers. They don't do squat above 10 mph, 'cept bend.... If you didn't re-inforce the area of your vehicle where the bumper attaches, it's no stronger in an above 5mph accident than a stock crash bumper would be.

No, I didn't have an alignment done, as I was waiting to get new tires all around and do the alignment at the same time. I just cracked the lock-nut loose and spun the ends off, then the new ones on. Should've been the same as it was, but that don't mean it was right to begin with. Went back out to the garage and just sat there thinking on everything. Had Son come out and move the steering wheel while I watched everything move. Think I found my shimmy, and another reason for tire wear. Seems there is a very slight amount of play on the PS inner tie-rod where it attaches to the rack. Found that while holding both tires as Christopher moved steering wheel. Got a spare rack here, I'll check it out and swap it in if it's good.

Added update to 1st post.

Coolness abounds..... Thanks GD!!!!!

#1 cylinder is the front one on the passenger side of the engine, or front left as you stand infront of the car looking at engine. Pull the spark plug on that cylinder, put a finger against the plug hole, and bump the starter until you feel pressure on the finger that you have blocking the sparkplug hole. You are now at the compresion stroke for #1 cylinder. Turn engine over BY HAND until you see the timing marks, align the 0* mark on the flywheel with the indicator on the bell housing. Pull the distributor cap and note where the rotor is pointing. It should be pointing to the back of the engine, just to the right of the rear cap hold down, if it isn't, you have the disty in 180* out of time to the crank. This really sounds to me to be your issue, along with the fact that you are looking at the timing marks on the flywheel and thinking the disty should always be at #1 when the marks are lined up. Not true... Disty turns 1/2 turn to every turn of the crank.

Just finished cutting up a 2WD , and got a good look at that tube. Yeah, it un-bolts from the body, so repairs "may be" easier if you remove it. Then again, if rust caused that, maybe you won't be able to get the bolts out that hold the tube in.. When I 1st looked at the pic, I thought it might be a weld seam that broke. But looking at the one here, it don't look to have a weld in that area. As mentioned in previous post, weld some angle iron to the tube for a temporary fix. Just be mindful that the gas tank is right there too.

Just got it pulled out of the garage. Having a well deserved beer before taking it for a spin around the block. Both inner DOJ's have slop in them.... Holding axle(s) with one hand and inner stub in other, I can get a good (not really) twist in both DOJ's. Can't really distinguish any play in the outer CV's, but I know that atleast one is bad from all the clicking during tight turns. DS inner boot was blown, and I have a good coating of nasty stuff all over that side of the BRAT, atleast it'll help deter any salt accumilation this winter. Didn't look real hard at PS inner boot, but I didn't see any ucky stuff on that side either. Did notice that the DS tranny stub has more free-play in it than the PS one does. Hope that ain't a sign of bad things are going to happen here in the near future. Did have a DO'H moment. When one pulls the front "drive" axles out of one of these vehicles, it does help if you put the "range selector" in 4WD before you try to drive it out of the garage. Just doesn't seeem to want to go anyehere if you don't......

Hey GD, You happen to have an AZ part number for the front axle. Just did a search on AZ site and they don't list boo for an axle. Tried all EA-81 years, same return, not available, and some wierd un-heard of brand name.

Yeah, I was thinking DOJ just from reading different posts on here. Just seems to fit.. But the low-speed clunk had me thinking possible ring gear too. Just now got BRAT into garage, letting snow and ice melt off it a bit. Been out there since daylight finishing up cutting apart an '86 EA-82 Sedan. I'll be heading back out there in a few and see what is what. Got an AutoZone just down the road, but I know they won't have an axle on the shelf. Store is only about 10 years old, and older Subarus are a rarity in these parts. I'll check out their web site and see what I can find.

Years ago, I knew a guy that worked for Ziebart. The stuff works, BUT, only if the vehicle is totally free of rust to begin with, and properly prepped for the coating. Any dirt, or existing rust, will just lead to rusting, hidden rust at that.