TomRhere

Sub-frame and crossmember is sturdy enough to handle that engine. I would up the front spring rate a bit though, just to offset the extra weight.

Pump was ordered thru Dealership, https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html and it didn't come with any seals. I'll see about cutting my own gasket. Thanks for the replies...

Did the search thing, came up empty.... Okay, got a new oil pump for the '86 BRAT. Just my luck, no seals or gaskets to mount it. Grrrrrrrrrrrr......... Ordered a gasket set for it... Got the small and large o-rings to use where needed to install oil pump. DIDN'T GET, the paper flat gasket though.... NNgggg!!!!! Question(s) is/are; Do I "(NEED)" the paper gasket, or can I just put a bead of RTV in the proper places? Does the paper gasket serve as a shim to set proper depth of the drive sprag? If so, Does anyone here know what depth I'm looking for? Thanks, Update; Cut my own gasket and installed oil pump today, (also installed new ball joints, tie rod ends). Did 3 attempts at setting the proper lash for the Hydro lifters, I'm close, but not there yet. #2 is dead, thinking I have the exhaust a bit to tight, I'll play with it more tomorrow. Getting these lifters adjusted is a real PITA. I have a copy of the FSM procedure here, so I "think" i'm doing it right. Took me a few attempts on the '84 Auto BRAT I had awhile back, also. Not 100% sure yet, but the more I play with this engine, the more I think it's not the original, just little things here and there that I've noticed. I've swapped many engines in various vehicle makes, and can spot an engine swap fairly easy, this one just strikes me as one that been swapped. Guess I need to un-yuck the engine ID number and check it against the ones on here in the engine number sticky.

You did.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=492791#post492791

Nice BRAT!!!! For getting rid of the mouse smell, try Murphy's Oil Soap. I've used it with good success myself. Just wash-down everything inside of the BRAT with it, using the hottest water you can stand to put you hand into.. You'll also will want to pull the heater blower motor out and clean it and the ducting good. The mice like to build nests in the heater system. Not sure how they get into the cowl area under the wipers, but that will let them into the heater system.

This trick doesn't always work, but I've had some success with it. Get a prying tool behind the bell-crank for the throttle cable, be it a screwdriver, prybar, jack handle, hammer claw, ect., ect., ect.... Apply a small amount of force to the area that needs some help, and slowly turn nut off. Keep a watchfull eye on what the nut is doing, and go lightly with the force at first. May take a couple of tries to get it to turn off straight, may take a bit more force. If it looks like it still wants to come off crooked, tighten it back up, and try it again, maybe with a bit more force. Just be patient in doing this, that is the key to it all. Sometimes though, you're fighting a loosing battle from the get go....

I'll 2nd that.... On the upper radiator hose. I found that the hose fit when doing the EA-82 carb intake swap with Weber on my '84 BRAT. Had same issue you did GD, with the hose being to close to the fan shroud. I just bent the lip of the shroud to clear it, making sure I didn't cause it to hit the fan blades either. When I did the same swap on the '86 BRAT I'm driving now, I had more room at the shroud for some reason, and didn't have to do any modding of the shroud. Maybe a difference in Manufacturing of the hose, don't know. Just gotta love the Lego-ness of these cars.....

Sounds like you have the T-belt/cam gear out of time for the PS. Easy to do, so don't feel bad about it. The pics and text in the books are misleading, as they show both cam gears at the top for timing, but you need to rotate engine 180*. If you didn't mess with the DS T-belt, bring the 3 lines on the flywheel back around so you're on the center one. These lines are seperate from the ignition timing marks and look like l l l . Check position of the DS cam gear. It should either be at 12 or 6 o'clock. You need to set the PS cam gear 180* opposite of the DS cam gear. If you messed with the disty, you'll need to re-time it. This is where you set it to TDC on #1, and check to see if rotor is pointing towards the #1 tower on the cap.

Look more for uniformity than a set number. But 110-120 would be a good range, some have reported more. Can't remember right now what mine where when I did a test on it. If one side is way lower than the other, chances are you have the T-belt off a tooth or two for that side.

Well, apparently,,,,,, I have the wrong rotors, but the right calipers. Was wanting to work on the BRAT over the 4th, but Mother Nature and Father Time conspired against me. Anyways, driving home tonight, I gets about 1,000 yards from my drive and hit the brakes for the Stop sign there. Sudden jerk of the wheel followed by a couple of clunks, and the sound of something tinkling down the road. Meanwhile, brake pedal is heading to the floor, FAST, and I ain't slowing down. AaaaaUuuuuuuuGggggggg!!! I quickly hit 1st gear and let out the clutch, bring me to a fast crawl. Luckly, no other cars on the road, so I made my right turn towards the house. Got in the drive and killed the engine while in gear. I stopped 3 feet from the front of the XT-6. E-brake was non-functional... Not good.. Did a quick look-see of the front wheels. I have no outer brake pad on the passenger side. Oh Joy!!!!!! Haven't pulled wheel yet, so not sure if inside pad is there. No brake fluid showing anywhere, so that's a good thing for now. Means I didn't blow the caliper apart. Looks like I'm stuck driving the XT-6 for the next few days. Darn.....

Try this fix by Skip 1st... Gotta scroll down the page a bit. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51716&highlight=starter+relay

No real clue on origin of brake parts. Bought/traded things for this BRAT, and this is what I have. Been sorting things out as I go, and this was the 1st, "that ain't right", thing I've come across. 86subaru, (Jim Wood), is who I got it from, and he got it from somewhere on the Easternside of Ohio. Jim didn't do anything much as to wrenching on it. I don't think that the person he got it from is a Memeber on here, so I can't ask questions of them. (edit) How would I go about finding if these are vented/not vented calipers? Can someone give me a measurement to go by, as in space between the "U" of the calipers. Brakes have been iffy, (but work), on this BRAT. They're not like the '82's or '84's were/are, they just could be better in my opinion.

Had to swap some different tires onto the front of the BRAT due to a belt busting in one of the "old" tires. When I pulled the tires off, I found that the brake rotors were solid ones vs slotted like my other '86 BRAT had. Hmmm. I thought everything from '84 on had vented rotors on the fronts. Got some new slotted rotors here, along with new brake pads for it. Now, do I have to change calipers also? I'm thinking yes here. What about the mount bracket for the caliper? Am I thinking right that someone said that EA-82 brake parts will fit on the EA-81? (Got an EA-82 Sedan here that I'm striping out). I remember reading of things on this, but I couldn't find what I wanted using "Search". Probally not wording it right. Been collecting new parts to rebuild the frontend on this BRAT, just waiting on balljoints now. Need to know if I need new calipers also. Thanks......

So I should swap the pedal mount assembly in my '82 then? I had issues of the clutch slipping at times, and was thinking the PP was weak. Maybe it was just the cable binding and not letting it engage properly. The BRAT is gutted right now, and I have an assembly out of an '86 BRAT. Might as well, eh.

MAC's Radiator Cleanser, (found at NAPA Stores), is some real good stuff for flushing/cleaning any enclosed water system, Be it your vehicles cooling system, or a portable water chiller like we had at my old job. Stuff works!!!! Plain and simple........ Directions say to let it circulate for 20 minutes or so, but I have left it for a couple days on some real nasty looking systems. Looks almost new inside when you do the final flush of the system. Ran it in one of my cars for a week with no problems. Man, you should of seen the gunk that came out when I flushed everything. Ucky to say the least......

Me thinks you have a very dirty carb there. A rebuild is in order. And yeah, there is a float level adjustment. Can't say what it is at the moment though, but I may have that info out in the garage. I'll look for it in a bit.

Thinking more along the lines of clogged jets myself. Possibility of float level set to low causing it to run out of gas, comes to mind also. Does it only do it when running down the road, or will it bog down when you free rev it in neutral also?

PM sent to you Brian.

Yeah, they send the wrong bolts, (to long), in the kit. But a trip to your local hardware store takes care of that issue. I didn't like the "stepped" look and feel of how the adapter pieces fit the manifold, so I used a grinding stone to "blend" the port opening in the adapter and manifold. Don't want to remove to much from the front of the manifold port, or "you'll hit water" as they say. Gotta be mindfull of the water passage there.

Sorry about that... Sure thought one could resize the pics if they were downloaded. Yeah, I think I can do a .zip file. I'll give it try after work tonight. Just got back in from Chicago, (left Sunday), need shower/shave and get ready for work. When I have the .zip file done, anyone that would want to host it on their site can send me a PM.

Thinking I have all of the info right, so it's time to let everyone see the write-up I did for swapping an EA-82 carb intake and a 32/36 Weber carb onto an EA-81 engine. http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/ Seeing as photobucket resizes things, you may have to download the pics to be able to read some of the text. The BRAT runs way better, MPG is 30 or better, and room for improvement there as I have some front suspension/steering issues to take care of, parts for that are here, just need time. Enjoy...

You may also want to look at this. http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59487 Scroll down to reply #12, tells of things needed done to put EA-82 into EA-81 vehicle. With the Turbo, you'll have to mod the engine crossmember to clear the up-pipe. Or, find the crossmember for a Turbo EA-81 and swap it in, those are sort of hard to find really, but they're out there. You won't have to worry about the flywheel stuff in that post seeing as you're going with the 5 speed.

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/weber.htm Should find what you need there.

Thanks Shawn. Was trying to get a good show of things related to this thread. Using the OSB was the best contrast I could think of at the time. Also don't like hogging space on the Board, so I got the photobucket site to do things like pics on.