TomRhere

Yes, the HG's can be done with engine in car. I prefer to pull engine myself, just because I do all seals and gaskets at the same time. Easier to see that you've gotten all old gasket material off of the surfaces. Besides, you're only 6 more bolts/nuts away from pulling engine anyways. As to how to do it with engine in car, I'll defer the answer to that to ones that have done it that way.

I like the looks of it myself... Also liking the looks of that FORD Falcon Ranchero sitting next to it, guessing a '65 or a '66 on that, but me likes.... Can't say as to how body parts would line up, but it's definetly giving me ideas. I have an '88 GL-10 Wagon and an '88 XT6 sitting here. Gotta do some measuring and what not. Thinking it's doable though, maybe not real easy, but doable.. Making it a 2-door might be a real challenge, but hey, they've done it on other cars so why not.....

1st thing I can think of is fuse or fusible link went. 2nd thing I could think of is the connection at the steering column.

Yeah, the XT6 front pulley and T-Belt covers are marked to time disty and cam pullies. Do believe that the the Spider intake equipped 4 cylinder engines were set-up the same way. Or atleast the crank pulley is marked and there's a pointer that attaches to the engine. Haven't seen a Spider set-up in quite a while, so memory is a bit fuzzy.

You could try emailing Allen, allen@alfaparts.net to see if he can make what you need. I sent them various parts of a BRAT a few years back. I haven't had time to work on mine, so I haven't ordered anything from them. Don't know if they still have the stuff I sent them either.

That be the item you're looking for.. Small wire from battery + goes to it, just to help you find it. Cover has some lock-tabs that hold it on. May come off easy, may have to argue with it some, I know I've had to on a couple vehicles.... And just because they look good, don't mean they are good. They can/will burn and not damage the insulation covering them, may dis-color it some but not always. Best to use a meter to check them.

Un-bolt the fusible link box from inner fender and look at the wiring underneath it. Lost most of the power in my old '86 BRAT, found corroded connections under the link box. One of which had corroded to the point of breakage. As to the radiator leak, It "shouldn't" bother the wiring harness wires themselves, but it won't do any of the connectors any good, as it will lead to corrosion on them.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/EA-81EA-82Manifold2.jpg In that link you'll find the EA-82 manifold infront of the EA-81. EGR is the piece on the back of the EA-82, to the left of the carb port. On the EA-81 it's directly behing the carb port.

True, it should have one, but it ain't the greatest.. I have used aluminum roof flashing to make heat sheilds. It's cheap, easy to work with as far as bending it to shape. With some fore-thought in making a shield, you can leave some extra "tabs" bent to stand the shield off from the pipes and use radiator hose clamps to attach it to the pipes. One should wear some heavy gloves when working with it though.......

Is the layout of the dashes the same between an '86 and his '87? I have pics here of where everything is behind the dash of an '86 Sedan.

Haven't actually measured for gauge, but I'm thinking, just from cutting up a couple vehicles, Body skin = 20 gauge Floorpan and frame rails = 18 gauge Some areas of the framerails are multiple-layered, mainly between engine x-member and tranny x-member. Tranny tunnel is double-layered at the forward section

Would not the Turbo engine crossmember have to be swapped also?

Yes, cat's are directional. The O2 sensor is on the inlet side, wouldn't work right being on the outlet, least not on our Soobs. As far as exhaust size goes, it's been batted back and forth on here many times. Consensis is to use 1-7/8" ID pipe from the heads to the cat, then some go 2" ID others 2-1/4" ID back to muffler, then maybe 2-1/2" tailpipe. If that cat is 2" ID inlet, then 1-7/8" ID pipe should fit inside it as it's basically a 2" OD pipe. Note that I said "should fit". I think you'll be alright with the 2-1/2" outlet, as it's mostly the pipes from the head ports that are the critical ones for size. Would probally be of good benifit to make both header pipes the same length leading to the cat. You'd get a better balance of exhaust flow that way. Think it was Phizinza that did an equal length header pipe on his, looked good if it didn't improve anything else.

Aye, the 6's are set up that way. But, so are the EA-82's with the Spider intake on them.

What parts do you need exactly? I may have some extras laying around, but no seats here.

I don't have any wrenches that go below 8mm, so I can't say what the MM size would be. But I use one the wrenches out of my Ignition wrench set, thinking it's a 9/32" but I could be wrong with out going out and looking at it.

Me wants the precious!!!!!!

Pull #1 spark plug, put finger over plug hole and turn engine by hand until you feel pressure on your finger. Remove finger from plug hole and continue turning engine until the 0* mark is aligned with timing pointer. #1 plug tower on disty cap is the one nearest the rear hold-down clip. You want the disty rotor close to that area. The rotor will turn slightly as the drive gears mesh. You may need to re-pull disty to adjust how it finally aligns with cap tower.

Tranny swap info, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49952 Rear disc swap info, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49975

If, it is a quad light system, your DS high beam is burned out, or there is a wiring/connection issue. As Skip said, swap bulb side-side to see if it follows bulb or stays with that side. A volt meter would be a nice thing to have really. One could check for proper voltage at connection and for continuity of the lamp filaments.

Nah, 'tain't nothing wrong with you Lassie, 'tis perfectly normal. Mostly has to do with the "Yee Haaa!!!!!!!!!!!!" factor of the XT6...... Bucky probally has more "get-up-and-go" than my '86 BRAT, but switching between the BRAT and the 6 is 2 different worlds of driving. Love driving the 6, but miss driving the BRAT after a day or two. The 6 is going to get me a ticket one of these days, I just love pushing the envelope while driving the 6. Do the rear brakes and keep Bucky around. Nothing wrong with having 2 (or more) Subarus in the driveway.

You've fixed it but, I have a 4" pair of vise-grips that really work well on FUBARED brake fittings. Nice to have in the toolbox and they come in handy for other jobs as well.

Quick check for bad booster is; engine "off", pump brake pedal until it firms up. Hold foot on pedal and start engine. Pedal should "fall away" from your foot. In other words, pedal should move towards floor as engine vacuum works the booster. If it doesn't, bad booster. Diaphram has a hole in it is most likely cause there. But I would check thehose going from intake to booster for cracks also. If the pedal is stiff feeling after letting car sit for a while, chances are checkvalve is bad, or as above, booster diaphrem is holed and not holding a vacuum like it should. A good booster should hold vacuum for 3-4 brake applications without the engine running. If the pedal is wanting to go towards the floor every time you push on it, chances are you have air in the lines, or the Master Cylinder is worn.

What he said!!!!!!!!!!!!