TomRhere

No screw to adjust for anything above say 1,200 RPM. There's just idle speed and idle mixture. More likely you have a fuel flow issue as in a dirty filter or your pump isn't putting out enough flow. Could be wrong jets, or float level adjustment too.. The Weber flows more air, therefore more fuel, than the stock carb. Your fuel system may have been capable of staying up with the stock carb, but not with the Weber. Just some "of the top of me head" ideas..

I'd be hunting up another starter, just incase................... Cold weather is coming, that will put added strain on starter...

I have used that Gore-Tex stuff in the past, mainly when a piece of equipment needed repair and we didn't have all of the seals/gaskets on hand. It's some good stuff, comes in various width/thicknesses. Some things repaired seen air pressure of 150 psi, others seen fluid temps over 260 * F, with no leakage. Probally was a bit tricky following the seal area of the cam case. But if you got it on properly, it should seal up with good results.

Nice Hatch!!!! I'm really liking that tire carrier...

Just to ad to this incase one finds an engine that's no longer in a vehicle; Angled corner on valve cover = large valve. All corners rounded = small valve.

Welcome to the USMB!! Nice ride, I so want one of those.......... I too have been infected with that disease. Currently only have 5 Subarus, but the desire for more is strong. Other half says, "NO MORE" though.......

I would swap the 155's for some 175/70's myself. The 155's sound like to small of a tire to me for a commuter. Maybe ok for a rally car, but to get MPG's up, you'll want a taller tire and 175's should be in the "stock tire" range. Carbed (weber) EA-82 in '82 BRAT with D/R-4spd, running 175/70-13's got consistant 30 MPG, highest was 31. That was running country roads and some hiway miles on trips into middle Ohio.

steel plate 1" thick is 40.84 pounds per square foot.

Is your steering wheel centered when the front tires are pointing straight ahead? If not, there lies the problem and you need to re-clock steering wheel. You can't change where the turnsignal cancels otherwise. Switch has 2 arms that sit close to steering wheel, wheel has a piece that hits those arms when switch is in the turn position and moves switch back to off position.

The turn signal switch itself is at fault here. One of the cancelation ears has broken off or is otherwise misaligned. I don't think you'll be able to repair it without replacing it.

More than likely it's a bad connection or broken wire in the charging circuit. I don't have anything here as far as wiring diagrams to go by, just a thought on it is all.

MPFI has 2 intake runners per side, no work on EA-81. Seeing as you're in California, the SPFI swap would be better than a Weber swap due to emission testing. Rear disc swap is easy. Three bolts to remove drum stuff, along with brake line and axle nut. Disc stuff bolts on with 3 bolts for backing plate, 2 bolts for caliper, steel hard line on the BRAT gets twisted slightly to align with hose of off caliper. Bleed brakes, install axle nut and wheel, test brakes and enjoy.....

So maybe my idea of doing the t-case mod to one of the BRATs isn't a good idea after all?

Nice looking '85!!!!! (even with the rust issues). There's a couple repair methods listed in the USRM for shifter slop. Had to do that repair on my '85, shifter is nice and crisp now. As for the sycro problem, try some Rislone Engine Flush in the tranny. Drain some of the gear lube out, pour in the Rislone and drive it for 50 miles or so shifting thru the gears, drain and re-fill with gear lube of choice. Should help it, but it's not a "fix-all". Dextron ATF will work as a cleaning agent also.

Need some good pics of the DS ASV plumbing. Mainly, from the valve up to the air cleaner can. The '85 BRAT has the one on the DS plugged off at the small exhaust tube fitting, valve and associated plumbing is gone. I have replacement parts, just not sure how it all goes together. Pics I have aren't clear enough on what goes where. Thanks

I'd swap the PS axle first before heading for the tranny. The DOJ, (inner axle joint) is most likely toast.

Ok, sorry about that, just thought I'd read that somewhere. I claim senility here............

And now he has clean aluminum and clean cast to take to the local scrap yard.... Done a few aluminum engine blocks and/or heads that way. Beats trying to get all of the bolts, plugs what have you out of them. Just build a nice bon fire, get a 12 pack or two, sit back and enjoy......

If that carb is for an EA81, it won't fit the '87 you have listed, as it's an EA82. Different bolt spacing for carb mount. But I'll put in my dibs on it for the '85 BRAT, it needs one......

Nope... Different bolt pattern/spacing.....

That'll definetly make you have a "part-time" RWD vehicle......

Best way to determine driveshaft length is to slide the tranny end in until it bottoms, then pull it back 1". Measure from center of bearing cap of the tranny yoke to the flange on the rear diff. Take that measurement and driveshaft to the shop doing the work. Tell them how you determined length and they'll make you one. Done it that way many times for various vehicles.

Didn't think one could get just the bushing, and one would have to get the whole assembly. I have the complete rear unit out of my old '86 BRAT, I looked at that mount before starting this thread. That bushing is bad also, but I got a good picture of how it goes together/comes apart better than lying under the '85 BRAT. But $160.00 or better for new is way to much in this ones opinion.

The '85 BRAT has just over 111,794 showing on the odo, not 100% sure if it's actual but believe it to be. I need to get some pics taken and put up for all to see..... If someone wants to grab one of those mount bushings for me I'd be greatful. Won't have any "extra money" until next paycheck though. I'll try that urethane on the one I take out, maybe put it in the '86 BRAT. And Gary, maybe I should've worded that different. As in "you ""don't just"" remove bolts" instead of "you ""just don't"" remove them" But you hit that nail squarely on the head........

I'll look into that 2-part stuff. If I go that route, I'll be sure and post on the outcome of it. Not to sure Wife will go for me baking it in the oven though. "But Honey, I'm fixing your BRAT doing this" This BRAT is from Nevada via the one I bought it from, originally from Arizona so I found out thumbing thru the owners manual the other day. So maybe those bolts won't kick my butt when I attempt to remove them. You just don't remove bolts on a vehicle that's seen road salt all it's life.....