TomRhere

Sounds like bad inner axle joint (DOJ).

Yeah, you'll need to re-bleed system. You haven't expelled all of the air out yet. Happens to the best of us sometimes. Start at the Master Cylinder and work out from there. Have your assistant slowly pump the pedal a couple times, then hold pedal as you crack the line/bleeders loose. I've lucked out and not got air in the system a couple times when changing calipers out, (I do still bleed system afterwards just so you know). Other times I've wore out my Wife's legs, (She be my pedal operator), trying to get all the air out.

Well, looks like it'll be Friday before I get it home. Made some calls today while at work, and had a tow home all lined up for after work. Get to the guys place and he ain't there, Hmmmm.. Head to the Bar after leaving info where we're at, and tried starting the BRAT again. Same deal, turns over just dandy, but won't fire off. Got juice on all plug leads, so I know spark is there. Got gas squirt when I moved throttle, so fuel is there. This ain't looking good...................... Get call from Jim, (guy with tow truck), that he's on his way and should be there in a few. Finish our Beers and head outside to get BRAT in good spot for loading. Hellacious racket can be heard coming down the road, so I goes out to curb to see what it were.. It be Jim, he blew something in the truck. Tranny, transfercase, PTO unit, diff unit, don't know, but something broke..... So his truck is now resting beside the BRAT, at the Bar. Rich took him home while I had another Beer and started to make more phone calls..... Stuff occurrs, and it sucketh,,,, bigtime.............................

'86 BRAT. Not sure yet as to what happened, I need to get it towed home before I can do anything as far as diagnosing it. BRAT is currently about 25 miles from here, dead......... Was heading home after work yesterday, when she started to loose some power. Quick check of gauges showed everything to be normal for this BRAT. I looked in the rearview mirror and saw what appeared to be a cloud of oil smoke behind me. Cloud wasn't disipating, so I really thought oil smoke instead of steam. I was still getting heat out of heater. Nursed it to a Bar I stop at occasionally, engine died as I turned into the parking lot. Popped the hood and looked things over. No evidense of coolant under hood, so no bad hose or things like that. Then I noticed that there was no real heat coming from engine, there should've been. I had driven about 5 or so miles from work at this point. So I started touching things, any place I could get my hands to on the engine, it's barely warm. ?!?!?! Touched the radiator, it's cool for the most part, but warm near the bottom. !?!?!??! Slowly removed radiator cap..... No pressure!!!! Pulled cap off and coolant level is way down, OH Great!!!! Decided to go inside an have a beer, let things cool abit before anymore troubleshooting. Came back out and added water to the radiator, tried to start it. No go.... Engine turns over just fine, but it won't start. Pumped the gas a couple times while spining it over, still no start, but it did spin faster like it wanted to start, just wouldn't fire off. Went back inside and called Wife to let her know what's going on, and that we may need ride home. Had another beer, and then tried to start it again, no deal. Called Del again so she could come fetch me and the oldest Son. BRAT is still setting at the Bar, and I'm trying to find some way of getting it home. I'll let y'all know what I find once it's here...... Head gasket change or engine swap was not on my planned "things to do" list this weekend.......

You need a key "on" 12 volt to the choke connection. Follow the choke wire off of the Hitachi to it's connection, that's the terminal you need to use on the vehicle side of the wiring. Most Webers don't have the anti-deiseling valve, so nothing else to wire up electrical.

No screw to adjust for anything above say 1,200 RPM. There's just idle speed and idle mixture. More likely you have a fuel flow issue as in a dirty filter or your pump isn't putting out enough flow. Could be wrong jets, or float level adjustment too.. The Weber flows more air, therefore more fuel, than the stock carb. Your fuel system may have been capable of staying up with the stock carb, but not with the Weber. Just some "of the top of me head" ideas..

I'd be hunting up another starter, just incase................... Cold weather is coming, that will put added strain on starter...

I have used that Gore-Tex stuff in the past, mainly when a piece of equipment needed repair and we didn't have all of the seals/gaskets on hand. It's some good stuff, comes in various width/thicknesses. Some things repaired seen air pressure of 150 psi, others seen fluid temps over 260 * F, with no leakage. Probally was a bit tricky following the seal area of the cam case. But if you got it on properly, it should seal up with good results.

Nice Hatch!!!! I'm really liking that tire carrier...

Just to ad to this incase one finds an engine that's no longer in a vehicle; Angled corner on valve cover = large valve. All corners rounded = small valve.

Welcome to the USMB!! Nice ride, I so want one of those.......... I too have been infected with that disease. Currently only have 5 Subarus, but the desire for more is strong. Other half says, "NO MORE" though.......

I would swap the 155's for some 175/70's myself. The 155's sound like to small of a tire to me for a commuter. Maybe ok for a rally car, but to get MPG's up, you'll want a taller tire and 175's should be in the "stock tire" range. Carbed (weber) EA-82 in '82 BRAT with D/R-4spd, running 175/70-13's got consistant 30 MPG, highest was 31. That was running country roads and some hiway miles on trips into middle Ohio.

steel plate 1" thick is 40.84 pounds per square foot.

Is your steering wheel centered when the front tires are pointing straight ahead? If not, there lies the problem and you need to re-clock steering wheel. You can't change where the turnsignal cancels otherwise. Switch has 2 arms that sit close to steering wheel, wheel has a piece that hits those arms when switch is in the turn position and moves switch back to off position.

The turn signal switch itself is at fault here. One of the cancelation ears has broken off or is otherwise misaligned. I don't think you'll be able to repair it without replacing it.

More than likely it's a bad connection or broken wire in the charging circuit. I don't have anything here as far as wiring diagrams to go by, just a thought on it is all.

MPFI has 2 intake runners per side, no work on EA-81. Seeing as you're in California, the SPFI swap would be better than a Weber swap due to emission testing. Rear disc swap is easy. Three bolts to remove drum stuff, along with brake line and axle nut. Disc stuff bolts on with 3 bolts for backing plate, 2 bolts for caliper, steel hard line on the BRAT gets twisted slightly to align with hose of off caliper. Bleed brakes, install axle nut and wheel, test brakes and enjoy.....

So maybe my idea of doing the t-case mod to one of the BRATs isn't a good idea after all?

Nice looking '85!!!!! (even with the rust issues). There's a couple repair methods listed in the USRM for shifter slop. Had to do that repair on my '85, shifter is nice and crisp now. As for the sycro problem, try some Rislone Engine Flush in the tranny. Drain some of the gear lube out, pour in the Rislone and drive it for 50 miles or so shifting thru the gears, drain and re-fill with gear lube of choice. Should help it, but it's not a "fix-all". Dextron ATF will work as a cleaning agent also.

Need some good pics of the DS ASV plumbing. Mainly, from the valve up to the air cleaner can. The '85 BRAT has the one on the DS plugged off at the small exhaust tube fitting, valve and associated plumbing is gone. I have replacement parts, just not sure how it all goes together. Pics I have aren't clear enough on what goes where. Thanks

I'd swap the PS axle first before heading for the tranny. The DOJ, (inner axle joint) is most likely toast.

Ok, sorry about that, just thought I'd read that somewhere. I claim senility here............

And now he has clean aluminum and clean cast to take to the local scrap yard.... Done a few aluminum engine blocks and/or heads that way. Beats trying to get all of the bolts, plugs what have you out of them. Just build a nice bon fire, get a 12 pack or two, sit back and enjoy......

If that carb is for an EA81, it won't fit the '87 you have listed, as it's an EA82. Different bolt spacing for carb mount. But I'll put in my dibs on it for the '85 BRAT, it needs one......

Nope... Different bolt pattern/spacing.....