TomRhere

Thanks Skip.... Did about a 5 mile drive in it Sunday, all appeared to be normal. Got real brave and drove it the 64 mile round trip to work yesterday. Seems all is good with repair. Looked back thru the repair log I have on this here BRAT. It's been a shade over 2 years since I did the manifold/Weber swap. So. it made it for awhile before the screws backed out. I'll be digging up another intake and doing some mods to it, then swapping it onto the engine. As I said earlier in this thread, "I really don't want to go thru that again"..

For that 90* hose from waterpump to heater supply line, a Gates 28466 hose will work, just trim to fit. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/7b2961db.jpg The old hose in that pic is from an EA-81. But I checked new hose against an EA-82 engine here and it'll work on them also.

Two things that come to mind is; Dirt in the carb, Vacuum leak. Either one would cause a mis-fire or backfire due to the fuel mixture being lean.

You don't really "bend" the line, atleast I didn't have to. Just twist the end of it so it points up somewhat, and then the flex line off the caliper attaches to it.

It's not an absolute requirement to use a bottoming tap, but it's advisable to do so. Reason being is the hole isn't really all that deep, so use of bottoming tap will allow for a couple more threads to be cut in the hole. As long as one doesn't over-torque the fastener, it really won't be a problem if one uses a starter tap, (tapered point). Myself, I use both. Starter tap to start the threads, bottom tap to finish cutting them. Starting a bottoming tap by itself in a blank hole is not always the easiest thing to do, especially lying on your back working overhead.

Nice score!!!!

I've pulled 2, EA-81 dashes, but it's been a couple years since doing so. For me, the hardest thing to do was to get the top 3 bolts out. Those are under the grille for the defroster vents. Getting the plastic keepers out of the vents isn't easy, then you need either an offset Phillips screwdriver, or very thin socket/ratchet to clear the winshield. There's 2 bolts per side on the lower part of dash, right near the doors. You need to disconnect the cable for the heater shut-off and the one for the center vent. Then you have all the wiring connectors to un-plug. Drop the steering column. Some duct work for the dash vents will probally need to come out also. Like I said, it's been awhile, but that's what I can remember.

Usually, if coolant is leaking inside of the vehicle, one could smell it inside the cabin. Doesn't always mean a bad heater core either. A loose hose clamp, like you found, can let coolant enter cabin by following the tubes of the core. I would reccomend replacing the heater hoses along with the smaller coolant lines found ontop of the engine, radiator hoses too.

I don't know the Legacy, but the EA-82's have a switch on top of the steering column that turns on the parking lights seperate from the light switch. Maybe that's same with yours.....

IT LIVES!!!!! Took some doing to get it to fire off, but it runs again. I had to swap in a fresh set of plugs before it would start. Apparently, drowning NGK's with coolant don't do them any good. I had cleaned, re-gapped them, but it wouldn't fire off, even after cranking engine over with no plugs in it to dry out cylinders some.. Wouldn't even fire with starting fluid. New set and she's good................. Did a pretty good imitation of a skeeter fogger for about 20 minutes. Quick blast up and down the block, and letting it idle for about a half hour cleared up the exhaust.

I don't think those 2 would work well together. But a small chunk of aluminum heli-arced into that hole would be the ticket...... Believe you me, another intake manifold will be re-worked properly and swapped on, I don't want to go thru this again. I'm just glad it was a small leak instead of a major gusher. Hydrolocking an engine while running down the road isn't a good thing..........

That hole under the carb also leads into the coolant passage that is in the lower section of the intake manifold, so just blocking the hose won't do. It would be best if I could heli-arc the hole over, but I don't have means of doing that right now. If that hole was round instead of squarish, I'd just tap it for a pipe plug and be done with it. Not to easy to tap a square hole, and the way the manifold curves under in that area precludes drilling it. Probally wouldn't be able to get tap in far enough either. Waiting for the Sun to rise.........

The EA-82 rear drum set-up will also swap over to the EA-81's. Just another option for you to get back on the road.

Do you get any spark at the plug leads? If you have spark, double check the disty install is correct.

Yep, starter will work on yours. So will the flywheel and clutch, 90 Amp alt is an easy swap to yours, tranny will swap if you should want full time 4WD, then there's all the stuff to do a 5 lug swap for better rim selection.

Yes there are 4 holes for the exhaust flange. EA-82 uses only 2 as far as I know. 1 carbed,1 SPFI engine here so that's what I know. MPFI or Turbo may vary. EA-81 engines use all 4 holes, 2 for the ASV adapter flange, the other 2 studs go thru the other 2 holes and mount the Y-pipe. And DUDE, get thy backside down here then!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bring your Subaru too, don't want people to get the wrong idea here.......

Got a late start working on finding what was wrong with the BRAT. We won't go into details on that................. Pulled plugs in prep for doing a compression check, when I just happen to notice something not quite right in #4. So I grabs the flashlight and looked into all of the cylinders. THEY BE FULL OF COOLANT!!!!!!! Well, not full, but one should not have coolant laying in the cylinder, 'specially all four of them. Ok, drain radiator, start pulling the Weber off. I hit water just as soon as I pulled the carb. That ain't right....... Coolant laying in the intake manifold too. Work my way down thru spacers and adapter plate to find the EA-82 manifold to Weber adapter is culprit area. Seems the front two screws that mount the lower section of the adapter had backed out, allowing the gasket to go places other than where it was supposed to be. I'm waiting for the JB Weld to cure right now. I dug out the old stuff and re-did a new "water passage under the carb" plug. It's less than 30* F. out right now and I have a lamp resting above the intake for heat source. Hopefully, stuff the cures and problem doesn't re-occurr. Believe you me, I'll be putting a bit more uuumphh on the screwdriver when tightening those screws again.......................... Maybe even some Blue Loc-tite for added peace of mind.

Sounds like you got the Y-pipe for a FI engine, as they have no need for that heated air. You may be able to just swap the heatshielding between the two so you can hook that hose back up.

Gotta love those easy fixes.....

I repaired a Toyota that had a blown head gasket between cylinders. Owner drove it that way for quite some time, as it had a wash-out in the head where the gasket had blown. Not good........ Had to replace the head. Not advisable to drive it that way.

I agree with both Shawn and GD. Heli-coil or timesert would be best method of repair. However, one may not have stuff on hand or money in pocket to do the repair the "proper" way. So the use of a 7/16" bolt/stud is a quick and reversible repair. This repair comes up from time to time and gets argued over. Here's the real deal on thread sizes and drill bit size for them...... From a tap & drill chart for 75% thread in aluminum; tap size.............drill dia. .............decimal equivilant 7/16-14................U...................... .3680 7/16-20..............25/64.................. .3906 10X1.25..............11/32.................. .3438 (standard exhaust stud) According to the chart for Heli-coil insert for the standard exhaust stud one needs to drill the hole`using a bit diameter of .4193 minumum to .4714 maximum which is somewhere between a 13/32" and 15/32" in diameter. A bit larger than the one needed for a 7/16" tap. Then one must tap threads into hole for the insert to go in, removing even more material. One does not need to drill hole for a 7/16" tap, it goes right in the stripped out thread hole in the head, leaving more than enough material to do proper repair at a later date.

Well I got it home. :clap: Just got in from taking truck and trailer back to Jerry, longtime friend and former co-worker. Jerry farms, and he's had his trailer loaded up with farm type stuff. He had some free time of not needing trailer, so I went for it. Used the starter to drive BRAT onto trailer and to get it back off of trailer here at the house. It fired one cylinder, one time, while backing down the ramp of the trailer, but it wouldn't do it again. Further ivestigation is slated for tomorrow, I'll let y'all know what I uncover. Have a good Thanksgiving!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Welcome to the Board!!!!! Quite a few Members on here from your neck of the woods, some closer than others. Most difficult part of swapping in a manual tranny is doing the pedal box. Not alot of room under the dash to work in, pulling the drivers seat helps, 'specially if you take up alot of space yourself, like me......

Michigan totally frowns on towing a vehicle using a chain or tow-strap. Shortest and easiest route home from where BRAT is would take me right past the State Police Post, and not to far from the Hillsdale County Sherriff's Office. So that's a no-go.... No towing on our insurance. Did have that though, many many moons ago with another company. This BRAT has the EA-81 engine, Weber carb on an EA-82 intake. Basically stock otherwise. The '82 BRAT 'had' the EA-82 engine in it. That BRAT is currently sitting on jackstands, some what dismantled, while going thru cancer surgery. I really appreciate the input from all of you. I'm still trying to get it home, but this is a bad week and weekend to get that done apparently. Had use of truck yesterday, but every place I called to get tow-dolly was closing before I got out of work. We shall see what tomorrow brings.......................

No exhaust sound that a cylinder had actually fired, but it does crank over faster with pumping of the gas pedal. Makes me think that it wants to start, just won't for whatever reason. Made more phone calls last night. I may have use of truck and tow-dolly, I'll know later today. Of course, they're forcasting heavy rain for this afternoon. Rich offered to push me home with his '91 Sonoma, but I really don't want to do that. 20 some miles up and down hills, we're on heavily traveled roads for most of the trip. I'd really rather not do that, especially if it's going to rain today, kinda need wipers, headlights, and maybe heater set on defroster to keep windshield clear. Regular tow-truck is out of the equation at the moment. $90.00 just to hook up, plus mileage.