Petersubaru

I did mean a new PVC valve itself...and the pipes are clean with no blockage

I am willing to here why the ej22 is the best...it is worth more then .02 cents to me ...thanks

usually I give people advice on this problem..but I am stumped as to what the real problem is..oil is sitting inside the air filter and the PVC is new and the compression for each cylinder is 159-160psi ...is it possible that the oil control rings are not doing there job...oil consumption is about 1qt.@ 1300 miles when driving at highway speed...is there a method as to tell if there is to much back-pressure

MY hill holder is leaking and I have removed the cable completely, but it still leaks and I was wondering if new brake lines with female -ends could by-pass the hill holder if they can be bought...scrap yard parts are not available to me

all the auto part stores say that my 86 loyale carbed takes either a 11/16's or 3/4" wheel cylinder...is there an easier way to determine the correct size without having to take it apart to measure

I am looking for a used motor and just seeking some opinions here as to the best 2.5 motor...SOHC or the DOHC...I am not sure, but I think the SOHC is newer...are there advantages or disadvantages to each one or maybe they are equally both the same...did certain years have repeated head gasket problems...Thanks

with the proper tool and torqued to specs, in almost all cases there shouldn't ever be a need to re- tighten the belts...but it never hurts to check them from time to time

up to this day I don't know if the OEM belts are really any better than other companies..way back when, my new 86 broke a belt at 15K miles..but those were the days when the belt had to be changed out at 25K mi(Canada)... subaru had to issue a statement informing people about the increased belt exchange intervals (code for a poorly engineered belt)..soon after that, subaru said that they came out with a new and improved belt (60K mi..up from 50K..but these belts were breaking on some cars much, much sooner).. improvements are very limited..you can not make the belt wider, maybe slightly thicker but in reality there is not a lot of room for some real improvement..various specs have been thru-out the years and it is a hit & miss situation...on a couple of occassions I have let the OEM belt break on there own and it seems to be like clock work ( about53-55K mi each time)....I think the general feeling about changing belts is at about 50k mi ( at least by Gates)..I change mine out at 45K mi if it needs it or not .. easy enough to do..both cars in total have about 440,000 mi...

the belts may look good and all, but there is no way you can tell what is happening inside the belt..timing belts wear from the inside out...if the belt needs to be tightened over and over again at various intervals..is it because the tensioner has slipped a little, which is no problem,..but if the belt is actually stretching, it is near it's end

after repairing and taking advice from the write up "tick of death", the car runs real quite now...before doing the job one of my valves would tick so loud as to turn heads on the street....

over the last 20yrs I have never heard or read about any problems as you have described due to any type of subaru engineering...the belts naturally will sit back in very close to the rear plastic backing...if the timing belt tensioners are to lose or have become to worn, this would cause the belt to be shaved down on one side...I recently changed timing belts on my friends car and his belt was so eaten up on the back side and then of coarse broke...the tensioners had come lose from over tightening the pulleys...yes, over tightening..on each pulley was only one bolt holding the small unit while the other two bolts were sitting in stripped holes..no big deal, I had to re-tap and put in a sightly larger bolt..good luck on your search...

perhaps the rear covers were not re-installed properly...slightly mis-aligned...

technical question..What has happened to the block/bolt that would keep it tight so as the break it...those head bolts seem quite thick and strong...or have they been reused to many times

new from the factory the secondary idle jet is smaller then the primary idle jet... from my own experience, if I ran 2 idle jets of the same size it would bog down(getting to much gas in my cause)...I was able to get rid of the hesitation off the line by dropping the idle RPM speed and increasing the timing a bit...for example..timed at 12deg/750-800rpm... idle speed would remain the same at 800..If I bumped the idle speed up to 1000rpm and was now useing this as my starting point off the line, it would hesitate every time..also at times it would back fire up thru the carb indicating a "timing" related problem..everything works very smoothly now in my daughters car....hope this helps...

as I understand the terminology, no reference has been made to the "mains"...we are probably saying the same thing but differently...It might be a little difficult to explain for me, but I will try..the idle jet (primary) located on the front/choke side ...maybe #60....and the "secondary" which is located on the back side of the carb...this jet is usually less in size..like maybe a #50 if you are useing #60 up front...

I just wanted you to know that I haven't changed my mind and wasted your time..

What are you useing for the secondary jet..maybe a 60???...

base is as stated from weber / 2 turns out and is a good place to start..6-7 turns out would mean that the primary jet is to small and possibly needs to be larger..this carb is very difficult to tune "properly" for the first timer...what is the jet size for the primary you are useing / also what is the jet size for the secondary...

GD..you have answered my question and as always you are coming to the rescue...I hope you read my PM on the throttle switches to be added to the list of goodies..Thanks...

in doing my FI conversion I have lost track on where to mount the fuel pressure regulator / also what pipe is pointing toward the fuel pump / and what vacuum line attaches to it....

in the center area, on the back side of the throttle body is a screw (pointing downward /flat head screw driver...turn it either way as desired...I would suggest that you count the TURNS to bottom it out, then back the screw out completely to clean it up and also shoot some cleaner into the plenum...put screw back and take it from there...

PM sent....

unfortunately, in my case there are no doner cars available for many miles around..a good used one as a spare would be the way to go and lot cheaper also...

just wanting to know what other FI fuel pumps will work on my loyale and hopefully a lot cheaper...I didn't want to spend $200-300 for example at Rock auto or Napa

http://www.inengineering.com/oil.html