Petersubaru

a friend of mine a couple of years ago took his ea81 heads to a machine shop and had larger valves installed along with having the intake and exhaust channels enlarged (hogged out) for better breathing and then ended up putting a holley 2 barrel carb on it...plenty of power to move the now....

try looking up in the yellow pages for a "bearing" store or try asking at some industrial place near by, if you can?...in my town we have two of them, but then again we a lot of Heavy industry that requires bearings of every sort...the guy at the store laid out 3 different bearings for me /open/sealed/sealed with a slight difference in the tightness of the beaings....

That's a good point...it's happened to me not knowing any better to tighten those nuts to spec, so I borrowed a friends high rated torque wrench and the noise went away............

I just want to add that concerning, packing the bearings... there is no need to do this if you get the bearings that have been completely packed from the factory and with permanent seals on the sides of the bearing..greatly increases the odds that dirt will never get into the bearing again.....but I can't remember which company it was/germ/jap/swed ??

all I know is what I have owned over the years ..I have had 2- 1985's..carb/MPFI,Non-turbo and 3- 1986's/carb/MPFI Turbo/SPFI...the 3 cars I still have...I believe here in Canada that the SPFI came out for the first time sometime around mid '86 which was the end for the carb models ..............

thanks, that would make sense...now in reversing the original question...would that also be the same(interchangability) for an ECU taken from an automatic to be installed into a manual...would anything have to be done to the inhibitor and parking switch...

both cars are '86 MPFI ..would anyone know what needs to be done to fit the ECU from a manual car in to an automatic..

Yes, I was referring to the debris screen...Although the word filter is often used and also understood to be changed on a regular basis, but why...I have more then one example of people only changing the fluid and driving with 250k on the odom

got 190K on 86 and still no problems...I hardly ever change the filter, but rather do the fluid change when the fluid starts to change color...it is even easier then changing the motor

In my situation I was told that the crank bearings were gone/too thin oil/ old lifers/a bunch of other stories..every now and then all the lifters would make noise and then sometimes only ONE lifter would sound like somebody beating on it wih a hammer...ever since I changed the oil pump...No more problem

this will have to be your call...if you just started to hear the clicking noise, it should last a while longer..if the inside of the boot is still clean, squirt some grease in there and tie up ...maybe both sides are cooked...

I would hold off on the carb rebuild until you know why the dieseling problem is there..concerning subaru, I am Not that familliar with the electrical side of things so in Theory it might be the alternator,...for example:.. with my daughters VW a check of the solenoid fuel shut-off was done and worked fine, but the old carb leaked a little so that may have been the problem / an installation of a diode was needed on one of the wires going to the coil so that when the key is turned off, there is no juice going backward from the alternator to the coil, her ignition timing was to retarded, so we advanced it bit ...a better grade of fuel made no difference because the motor was new and with low miles on it...we changed the carb and everything works good now...Good luck

check the solenoid switch on the side of the carb to make sure it closes off the fuel when turning the key off... now with key On, umhook the electrical plug going to the solenoid several times to hear or feel if it clicks...then it is OK....

I think you need to read www.centuryperformance.com ...they sell the Mallory line of multi-spark units...but more importantly they give you the info/education to determine if you really need one...one of the great MYTHS of the multi-spark units is that you will gain more power ... this is only true if you have still have unburnt fuel in the cylinders after combustion, which in most cases is due to other related areas of the ignition/fuel delivery system...

I am trying to sell it...

don't wait to long..you don't want that thing to blow up on you when you are crossing the road with a semi coming your direction

I would run this problem by your mechanic...could be as simple as a bad thermostate staying closed..

I know one can run 12v from the key and other places to power items under the hood, which brings me to my question...is there a way and enough room under the hood so that all the wireing will not have to be rerouted back under the dash but kept under the hood including the ECU...I would still like to keep the option of reverting back to a carbed car rather easily

my old 86 did that 3 yrs after it was new...

If you are going to use the MSD, I would first phone the MSD people and explain what you are thinking about...you need to make sure that there is not to Much resistence in the electrical path from the box to the plug...to much resistence makes the MSD work harder, thus a shorter life span....there is a host of other problems that can be developed....best to stick with a companies System of spark developement, then mix and match...a good read on the subject... www.centuryperformance.com

hotter,or longer,or fatter or multi or even normal, are all variations of the spark to make sure that all the gas in the combustion chamber is used up

I forgot to include the year of the carbs...for 85-86 1.8 4wdr.are Not controlled by the computor while for the same years for 2wdr do have computor control..this was according to a rebuilder of these carbs...is there any way to make the computor dependent carb work without the computor..some have 4 prongs while others have 3 prongs for the electrical connection..Thanks

I would suggest that you don't use the JB weld since it is only rated and good for low temperature uses...you need a product like from Armeco..good for 2000F deg.. www.aremco.com ...the product is called Pyro-putty and also they have a bunch of different products for all kinds of strange uses...I was able to drive for another 3 years before actually having to pull the head off

my 86 4wdr has the stock carb on it and I would like to use another carb from a 2wdr...I have been told that the 2wdr carbs are computor controlled and would not work...is there any practical way to over this problem so that the 2wdr.carb can operate without the aid of the computor, of which I don't have

it is hard to say if the EGR is the real problem for the pinging...at least once in any subi it needs to have a very complete tune-up...it makes it a lot easier to deal with problems when they come up...less items to check and chase down...if you haven't already, I would try first of all to remove the thermostate completely and drive the car as you normally do, just to rule out any possibility that your car isn't slightly running hot which the temp gauge may not pick-up