Petersubaru

it runs great off idle...I will check the plug wires for proper connection

any ideas as to why my 86 turbo shakes when idleing , but not at all times,.. the car ran well 3 wks ago, during this time it has been sitting without it being started..

seeking some info and ideas on converting to FI..can I install a complete mpfi from a turbo car, but without useing the turbo...will the car work OK with the ECU etc taken from the turbo car...or is it better to get an spfi donor car which is coming up for sale very shortly

if the compression comes up rather on the weak side, but is not so bad that warrants a rebuild...then do away with PVC system and install breathers over each valve cover and replace the oil filler cap with breathing cap...just like the airplanes guys that use these motors to fly...good luck

oil will not come out of the PCV..but if the motor is not breathing correctly as designed, there is every possiblity that it will then come up thru the carb...do the compression check to make sure the problem is not created by excessive blow-by...

I had this apparently same problem with my car... I took care of it by changing the PVC...I had to install the PVC twice because, even when it "rattled" by shaking it, it would not always work properly when under suction..I would recommend checking the hoses going to the PVC for any blockage and possibly leaving the oil filler cap slightly loose to allow any pressure to escape more easily ....do a compression test to rule out poor rings...

would anyone know what a fair price would be for a 1990 Loyale 4wh dr, 5speed manual Single range tranny worth..shifts very smooth

190,000mi and still going strong thru the streets of Detroit..all orginal

for installing a SPFI system from an 90 loyale to an 85 carb loyale...is there anything that one needs to know to avoid any unforseen problems that may have not been mentioned on this site, or even wrongly assumed ideas ...I have the complete FI car so I am thinking all should go well

"a difference in the grounding of a pin"...Is this something I need to be concerned about...for ex.... rewireing of connectors so as to get proper grounding..or is it just a matter of clipping the connector on...

I have an 86 gl-10 turbo auto and I believe that the ECU's between the turbo and non-turbos are interchangable....would this be the same for air flow meters

it's 500-600 $ to have that bolt taken out by a professional...so you know that your time is worth it

How can one tell by looking at the Vin #'s to determine the exact age of a subaru

A long time ago my teacher called me a knob for NOT asking a question...I have been useing now for many years larger filters for all my cars...for example, on my carb 86 loyale.. filters by Mann/Mahle/Napa Gold /Wix..same as Napa Gold...the equivlent to the Fram PH8A("YUK") from Napa (the Napa # evades me now) or the larger diesel filter for the 1.6 VW diesels and for Turbo applications because the wider filter will not fit in, I use the VW gas filter form 1.8 gas motors...this filter is the same dia. but is extended in length...all these filters are good quality with extra filtering elements as compared to the Fram product or cheaper filters.. extra filtering in the diesel one...none of these will come apart

Thanks for that great amount of info...I am strong believer in obtaining parts form the auto wreckers...driving an 86 turbo puts a lot of limitiation in finding one from the yard

does anybody have an idea as to where I can get my ECU rebuilt (86 GL10) and are the automatics different form the manual tranny

"recarbco" ...search with google..they remanuf..not just rebuild...and ready to pass emissions...more expensive, but you get what you pay for

both carbs are from a 1986 loyale,one from a 2wh dr. and the other from a 4wh dr...(any differences)..Thanks

Does anybody now what are the major differences between the Carbs for a 2wh & 4wh drive for my '86 4wh loyal/manual

After reading how to change from a carb to FI, it made me think...( to much knowledge can create problems)..I am seeking to know from experience if anyone has successfully used a N/A block mated to a turbo...my 86 4x4 wagen/ carb/ has a new motor in it with about 165psi , but now that I am driving an 86 turbo I have become rather spoiled to the way FI works...the turbo motor works excellent etc, but the body is rusting away..I was thinking to swap all the FI parts together with new turbo heads into the wagen using the N/A block...with turbo block when new had about 148psi...what possible problems could I experience by increasing the cyl. pressure... I don't drive the car hard and would only be used in most cases for highway driving...are there any mods that might have to be done, for example, how to deal with the extra crankcase pressure, since the FI needs sealed air circulation to make it run smoothly...any input would be appreciated...Thanks

I would flawlessly clean the pistons up and install new rings from Nippon Piston Ring .. they will give you the tightest ring gap possible, providing your clyinders are in good shape...the scatching on the side of the piston is caused from Pinging (the piston vibrates inside of the cylinder when this happens) and the large blotchy marks seem to indicate at one time a blown head gasket slowly leaking without any one takeing care of it...check inside the cyl and make sure that the walls don't look like this...turbo pistons produce less compression and I believe (not sure ) that the piston wrist pins have more slop in them for heat related reasons

the super coil will work for some unknown time?...but the stock coil is designed to work in conjunction with the ignitor located in the distributor which is really responsible for the strong spark that subaru already has.....that is why the spark plug gap is recommended at .044...unlike the older version of cars without the ignitor were the gap is set at about .025...it all has to do with resistence valves(ohm's) in there design...less or more resistence in the working parts outside of stock only cause the parts over the long run to burn out sooner...the super coil sounds stronger,(volts) but only at start up and quickly falls to less then stock once it warms up...remember that it is "current" that ignites the fuel and not "volts"..it can be confusing

after 15 years of driving subarus, I think I can say that it is normal...almost every car does this..with the subaru it shows up on the oil cap..another car I have shows it under the valve cover...some of the newer Toyotas develope this moisture internally without ever seeing it...no matter how you drive it..once the oil starts to cool it will draw moisture to it

75w90 synthetic is what I was useing before I changed to the D4-ATF(good read on their site)..I was at the point of putting another tranny in the car until somebody told me about the redline stuff...the reason I went with Redline is because it is also a gear oil and ATF combined and very thin...the tranny is very liveable now and I am very happy about the outcome...You could try an experiment and just put in some cheapo ATF (about $6) and see if you like the results(easy to do on a sub.)..the honda "manual" tranny oil is a little thicker..Good luck....

sounds like a problem that many of us have had on this site...for many reason, as the car gets older/ shifting problems arise/ I personally use the newer Redline product called D4-ATF (this is not just an automatic tranny oil which they have also.) this fluid is rated as a GL-4 gear oil and auto tranny oil, all in one (the wonders of synthetic oil) this solved my problems...in my jetta I am using the newer manual tranny oil for Hondas...almost as thin as auto tranny fluid..much cheaper and it to worked wonders on my tranny