Petersubaru

still looking for the location...I have read passed posts concerning the coolant sensor for the ECU, but I am still confused as to the info given as to the correct location of the part...I went to an offical Subaru dealer who is not familliar with the older cars and their computer diagrams point to the knock sensor as the coolant sensor and the part on top of the thermostate houseing as some sort of solinoid??(they were not sure and these are diagrams from subaru)...also went to a VW mechanic and the Michells online points out also to the area of the knock sensor...another confused mechanic..he could help me either...my car is an '86 loyale/turbo/2wh,drive/auto/4dr..any help would be appreciated...I have never seen the ECU..is there a lite up number that comes on if this part is malfunctioning

For what ever it is worth...Factory specs for a new N/A EA82 motor is 168psi...my 86 with 200,000mi on it has between 155-160...but then again this car I have had since near new/mostly highway miles/oil changed every 3000mi. I'm looking to buy a subaru, and I am going to compression test it. What is an acceptable range for an 86 GL no turbo with 150k. Obviously, I will be on the lookout for even compression accross all the cylinders, but I want to know how tired this thing is. 125-130 psi?? What is the factory spec. on a new motor? Thanks![/quote

I would love to use a carbed disy if it is possible...Have you any feedback as to why the 86 disy has 4 wires coming out of the ignitor (2 wires to the coil and the other 2 wires to somewhere else???) as compared to carb disy which has only 2 wires running to the coil ...

does anyone know if I can use a distributer from an 88 EA82 turbo for my 86 turbo

if you are useing the newer style (better technology) headgaskets then no re-torqueing is necessary...just re-check the torque on each bolt again before continueing with the assembly...I think the best gaskets can be found at...http://www.corteco-usa.com/

before you changing the EGR, make sure that the passage way leading up from the motor to the EGR is not plugged (deep inside)..often this can be the problem and not the EGR

your mechanic is correct (this is not theory, but basic knowledge for anybody that understands carbs) when he says that the vacuum to the distr. needs to be progressive and this can only be accomplished when the distr. is hooked up to the proper carb port DESIGNED for the vacuum advance... and yes if the vac lines are not hooked up properly on the carb, it can pull to much gas thru the carb.. it is hard over the internet to tell which carb inlets to plug up, but talk to your mechanic again and have him use a vacuum gauge to find the correct port for the distrutor...and plug up any other ports that don't make any difference

your vacuum advance, working or not, would not cause this much grief unless things are seized up inside of the dist...3 sooty plugs ,not 4??...I take it that we are short on tools here...so check each plug "visually"to see if each "seems" to fire with the same intensity..if so then I would think the ignitor in the dist.is good and if they don't fire evenly across the board,check the wires, gap etc...)I am sure you know this; so I am not trying to be insultive here)......since not knowing the complete history of the motor and if I was a gambling man I would bet either the timing belt is off by one tooth or the spark plug wires not hooked-up correctly...not everyone knows it, but subarus turn counterclockwise and thus can be confusing when hooking up the plug wires correctly...I did this a while back ago and spent hours trying to figure it out...lets hope it is not the valves...good-luck and keep us posted

I know what a Main jet is when referring to carbs in the Haynes manual, but what are main or slow air bleeds or even a slow jet...the terminology is confusing

for elctronic systems only...the electical signal from the ignitor will not work with an MSD..you need to change the whole system..fine for the old points systems

that is not an easy question to answer because of the multitude of coil applications which are determined according to the specs of car manufacture or for racing applications which by-pass the distributor hook-up...subaru coils and ignitors are designed as a package or system (resistence factors determine this) ...even though the coil you are using seems fine now...not knowing the specs of your coil, you could be slowly burning out the ignitor in the distr....subaru gives the exact resistence numbers for there coils so that ignitors do not prematurely burn out..even the popular small accel coil does not have the correct specs... the subaru SYSTEM is an excellent way to go...very few cars have the Sparking power to maintian a spark plug gap of .044

let us know what happens

my recently purchased '86 turbo has written on the fuel pump...Made in Japan by a company called "JECS" ...would this have been the orginal pump or possibly has this pump been changed....#742021110....A40-000 973 6131

would you know which carb has the smaller jets or info as to find out

I got 3 carbs, all from 86's .. (2wh/auto..2wh/manual...4wh manual) ...can anybody confirm for me if there is a difference between Hitatchi carbs of a 2wh vs 4wh drive...I am looking for the best mileage to be gotten when I am on the highway

if you are that handy and have the skills, try using an older style 2 barrel carter carb ...a new carb base and manifold will have to made, but now you will have plenty of adjustablity from a good old GM Buick carb

I had the same thing on my 86..if it has a carb, then there is no place to hook up the O2 sensor..for what ever reason, sounds like this cat/y-pipe was taken off another car with a FI set -up

on my two subarus. the timing marks on the flywheel are marked A or B on either side of the big "0" (TDC)...offical setting of 8deg. BTDC ...I am curious as to what the plugs look like...keep use posted when you find the problem

for those who are interested...after trying a number of things to take care of the "Notchy" second gear when shifting down at the corner...nothing seemed to work until I filled the tranny case with ATF...in my case it has become very livible and shifts down very easily...I was told to change the oil every 20,000mi

Hopefully the new carb will take care of the problem along with a new fuel filter and good working fuel pump and a "level" or close enough operating fuel bowl...after that, try pulling the plugs out and see if they are a light tan color...and if they are not, then at this point check for a mis-firing module in the distr.(easy to do if you can change the dist. with another one)-the vac-advance may be shot, but I doubt if it would be the cause for this much power loss...this could be also a problem with a bad valve or two....I have seen people chase all-kinds of problems first without checking the compression and doing a leak down test....if a spark plug looks dark compared to the others, it could be a faulty valve,(hope not).. but first check(better replace) the ignition side of things...wires,rotor ,cap ...when checking the timing,hopefully you set it on the BTDC..and not on the ATDC..some people get confused on this part... the list can go on but I am stopping here....Good luck

no takers,

I bought this car (86/4wh dr loyale) many years ago with 25,000miles on it and right from the beginning it was a little notchy and livible, but now is annoying.... can any one explain why the second gear is notchy when down shifting as opposed to up shifting(all is smooth here).... I would like to pull the tranny out and change the syncro or could someone tell me from there own experience if the snycro hub/syncro/and possibily the second gear might have to be changed, as was suggested by the subaru dealer in my town...another transmission shop said that they don't have nor can they get the specs for the critical tolerances that will be needed to put the tranny back together again...I am familiar with tearing down VW trannys and useing a jig for setting everything up to check for proper shifting etc. ...what about Subaru...outside of a press tool, is there any other special tools needed to do the job or am I getting into some unseen serious problems here...any feed-back would be appreciated..Thanks

thanks for the info..I took the compression test yesterday and it also came up to about 130-135 after 5 turns..this motor has had a lot of constant cold starting with about 180,000mi on it...still passes the emission with flying colors....keep up what ever you are doing (driving habits/oil changes etc) you probably have another 100,000mi before having to replace that motor

you can't go wrong with anything from NGK (plugs and wires) (the wires have the correct resistence and are cut to the exact length)...for the dist.cap and rotor I have been using Napa products...its cheaper then from the sub.dealer while at the same time still made to the same standards as the dealer product.... as for improved performance, any tune up will help, but it really all depends how bad it was running before

heat coming from the AC core works OK or so I think..but I will know better when the real cold weather comes about soon....the core had to be removed and cleaned and rubber pipes fastened in a way that they don't slide off the aluminum pipe when under pressure