Petersubaru

At the moment I am not experiencing any problems with the ECU, but only thinking about some alternatives if problems occur and looking for ways to be flexible so that I can take the 86 GL10 turbo where ever...for those who have driven on the Alaskan Highway and far further north then Anchorage to the Artic circle will know exactly what I am talking about...I have been up that way twice and some people will say that maybe I should buy a new car...but on several occassions I have seen $40-$60K cars stranded in Norhthern BC/Yukon with the only option of towing them a 1000 miles to the dealer..then again maybe I should keep on travelling with my carbed subaru...any further info would be appreciated...Thanks....

anybody have experience or know of someone that rebuilds ecu's for subaru

if you decide to use inserts,I think E-lok thread fasteners are far superior to heli's..if you put them in correctly,they will never pull out...http://www.allamericanproducts.com/toolng/e-zlok.htm

are there any rear disc brake parts of a 2WD that can be saved/used on converting a 4WD to rear disc brakes ..both cars are of the same age..'86

the struts are free from midas...even the people from midas tell me they are junk...more importantly, is there a web site etc. that gives any more info on your GL10 turbo with added goodies...Thanks

just got a pair of new Hydraulic shocks..both have been primed (but not installed yet)... when both have been pressed down, one shock will come up a lot Faster then the other one ...which One is the bad one,the fast or the slow moving one...I asked a friend of mine who works for Midas (20 yrs.in the business) and to my surprise, he did not know the answer...but he did say one of them is no good since they were both not equal in travel speed when coming up

Thanks....

Hi Morgan.. I would appreciate the part # for the flow thru fuel pump...The # that Archemitis gave has only 6psi, not 90psi?? ,according to Napa's in fo...Thanks

that would be a real help if you could get the part #..Thanks

I have an '86 GL10 turbo...what is the very small canister attached to the one end of the fuel pump...a small regulator or check valve???...

about $300 new

does anyone know of a way to over come the expense of replacing the fuel pump for an '86 turbo GL10..I don't know if it has ever been changed..but looking at it ..seems to a be a Bosch unit

Interesting..I am from Canada and all the Carbed EA82's that I have seen have the 3A written on the coils and but turbo has 5A written on the side ...Thanks

both rear windows will go easily down but will not come up without some help (pulling them up while someone holds the switch) I just bought the car...is it possible that the windows are like that because they were seldom used and the window tracks are dirty

what does it mean when the coil has 3A or 5A stamped on the side of the coil

thepartsbin.com carry the "complete" clutch kit manuf. by the same company that subaru uses..excellent kit...2w dr. and 4w dr. cars don't mix unless you change the fly wheel...the 4w dr. cars have a much larger clutch surface etc. for that extra grip if needed

the flat spot that the Hat.carb has off a quick start..was this a problem from the beginning when the car was new..if it is not from new ,has anyone figured out as to why the flat spot has developed as the car has gotten older

the extra hump that some early 80's wagons have on the roof...was this only used on the Turbo models

sounds like the same problem I had...I don't know if my solution applies to you ...if the center hub/CV nut is not properly tightened according to specs. you will get this type of noise..if not already done ..go out and find a good torque wrench

could the computor become interchangable,for ex. between an 86 & 88 turbo when swapping distributors with it or is there more to it then being that simple

any distributor from a carb EA82 motor???....thats what I thought until I pulled the dizzy out and found that the turbo model has 4 wires coming out of the ignitor instead of the 2 wires like the carbed dizzy....2 wires to the coil and the other 2 wires heading toward the opposite direction

on my 86 turbo,which still had at that year both the mechanical and vac. pot advance...when checking vacuum on the pot with my hand held vacuum pump..the arm will pull in slightly but will not hold under vacuum unless I keep pumping ...is this a design feature for the turbo's or is the vac pot useless.

can the ECU/Air,fuel Mass unit from a non-turbo car be used on a car equipped with a turbo,providing both cars are of the year

can anyone tell me where the ECU is located on an '86/gl10 /turbo /2 wheel dr./auto

Is there a way to tell if the turbo While still in the car is working properly...is there a way to check if the bearings are OK..if the turbo fails on the road, can it be by-passed some-how...Thanks