Petersubaru

I see in the haynes manual that the carb for a 2wdr. has larger jets then on a 4wdr/both being manuals...has anyone actually experienced any noticeable differences between the two carbs

I think that kind of technical info is hard to get..Generally speaking (because I don't know for sure concerning subaru) but with other car makers..ex. VW..there is a difference between a distributor for automatic vs. manual..the best way to find out is to put it on a distributor machine or compare the two dist. at different RPM's while in the car with a "back to 0" timing light

In my case with one of the cars I have, the real problem was caused by too much carbon in the combustion area/heads,pistons and it pinged all the time with a slight throttle acceleration...I would suggest to take the thermostate out and drive without it to see if it pings and of course if it doesn't ping, problem solved,simply put in a new thermostate( I drove without one from Alaska to Michigan and the car never pinged once,but now it ran to cool)..180 would benefit the older cars (make sure you get one with the little wigler)... any auto parts store should have a spray cleaner specifically for cleaning auto electronics...take the MAF off the car for cleaning and also check the connecting harness to it making sure that there is no corrsion on the terminals and the wires are in good shape....In my case which is different from you, I retarded the timing a bit/colder plug/89 octane/170deg. thermostate from subaru which I had to grind down around the edges to fit the older car...LET me know one way or the other how you made out

would there be a few people who would have some idea as how much a complete SPFI system is worth...it came off a 1990 loyale /manual ...everything has been taken out of the car and is sitting in a box...the fuel pump would have to changed since it looks very rusty...Thanks

I had a pinging problem 3 yrs. ago and eventually it went away..I would first of all try reading the ecu codes(if any) and use Seafoam again but not thru the tank (that is for maintenance) ..for cleaning the top of the pistons and intake valves, seafoam recommends slowly injecting the product thru an intake port of some kind that feeds all the cylinders more directly with a stronger solution...change the O2 sensor with a universal one ($20) along with changing temp sensor($27US)(35) in Canada from the subaru dealer(make sure that the terminals of the sensor are clean...(you can check the operation of the sensor with an Ohm meter)...make sure that the thermostate is not sticking closed to long which would cause the motor to run hot at the beginning of your drive thus causing ping... also check to make sure that there are no air pockets in your cooling system (usually caused by useing the wrong thermostate, the one without the little hole in it) air pockets can cause symptoms that would make the thermostate look bad..check the timing with a "back to O" timing light to make sure that the timing is advanceing smoothly...finally clean out the inside of the MAF with an eletronics cleaner..go one colder with your spark plugs..subaru recommends 3 diff. plugs for the same vechicle..BPR6ES-11(standard)//7ES-11(colder)//5ES-11(hotter)..Good luck

I would think your problem would be related to the timing not coming on fast enough at a certain RPM...I am having that problem now with my 86 which still has a vac pot on the distributor...I checked to see if the inside of the dist. moves freely which it does , only to find out that the vac pot has a leak which retards the timing for normal driving...on the hand if you have a turbo, retarding the timing in the upper RPM's would be beneficial when you hammer it down

I am doing the carb to FI. conversion and I was wondering if anybody from experience would have any ideas on how to mount the ECU box under the dash

I have gone to 3 auto parts stores, when giving them the model year of my cars ,2 stores said none of my CV axles can be interchanged...the other store said maybe...I have an 86 loyale,4wd,carb, manual and a 86 turbo,2wd,auto and a 90 4wd manual,single range...on 2 of the cars,the inside spline count ids the same..thanks for any advice

I have 3 coils all from different cars...what does it mean when on the side of the coil is stamped "3A" from an 86 ea82 carb/ "5A" from an 86 turbo/ "8A" from an 85 mpfi/NA

does anybody know if an ECU from an '85 manual/ N/A multiport will swap into an '86 turbo/automatic...there is one sitting in the desert with 136,ooomi. on it

What I found worked for me was to first change the spark plugs to one set colder and if they don't foul up on you, all is fine...then I changed the thermostate to 160deg..(my rad is new so the coolant runs very freely thru it)(don't forget to drill the small hole on the thermostate flange)..set the timing to 18deg.at the proper rpm. and us 89 octane gas...if you ever get around to changing your headgaskets, cleaning up the heads will make big difference..

17+16=33deg. plus the initial setting??? for total advance..any idea as to what the initial timing is set at....when useing my "back to 0" timing light I get about 54deg when all is in..since my power range is most of the time within the 3200rpm bracket..a change in the curve (10deg less)will definitely take care of the pinging etc....

Are there any other small parts to buy..for example any gaskets for the turbo..I have spare exhaust gaskets..Thanks...

Under the turbo on my 86 GL10 is a coolant hose which needs replacing...is there a way to replace this hose without having to remove the turbo and exhaust to get at the upper part of the hose...the previous owner had the pipe replaced 2yrs ago at some shop who installed some no-name brand of rubber hose and it has now become absolutely brittle after only 18000mi. of driving...You'd think that after charging the guy $200 for labor, they could have put a better grade of pipe...I replaced the hoses made of this same material...scary to feel and a very unexpecting way to destroy the motor

I was womdering what is happenong here...I took the metal top off the throttle body for cleaning (86 GL10 Turbo).. I noticed a little oil coming from the turbo up the tube which draws air and goes over to the throttle body.

yes, when I start it up... revs at about 1600-1800 until it warms up and then stays fairly stable at 800 and at times it will shake at the idle even though there is no change in the idle speed

if you already had the hole in the thermo, I doubt if the oem is going to work any better unless it calls for example...my 86 carb loyale calls for 180deg...make sure that the system is completely full...if you still have problems in the future let me know...from experience I still one more idea, but it is to negative to mention rite now...goodluck

I think you have the wrong thermostate...make sure it has a small hole on the side of it thermo ( a little flapper/wiggler inside of a hole/ look at the original one or buy a thermo from the dealer/this way you are going to get the correct thermo for that particular car...or drill a hole yourself...that is the easiest and this way you can use a cooler thermo if needed especially if your car is "pinging"....without that small hole you can never get rid of the air in the system....fiil up the system slowly when cold and it will now fill most of your cooling system...drive and heat it up/check when cool

any idea where the auxillary air valve might be located on an 86 loyale mpfi turbo..........

if you live near a walmart, have them test the battery(it's free if you show you are interested in buying one of there batteries) to make sure that the battery is OK( amps and voltage test) ..if your battery comes up Ok,.. then disconnect the Positive cable from your battery and take a test light or digital volt meter and bridge the positive.bat.terminal and pos. cable...position the light or meter so that when pulling/inserting each fuse one by one, you can tell if power changes, any fuse that stands out differently from the others COULD be the problem...my mechanic told me to do this as a basic step and in MOST cases you should find the problem...but at the same time is not "fool proof"...good luck

I have 2 carbs off an EA82 motor and same year(86) and I am wondering which carb will give me the best mileage...one carb is from a 2wdr. and the other is from a 4wdr

in order to start my 86 GL10 turbo in the morning, I have to push the pedal to the floor to start it immediately(if I don't hold the pedal down it will take much longer..once it warms up you will only have to touch the key and it fires up...could this be the coolant sensor or is it something else...I am open to all ideas

both cars are 4wdr loyals....would anyone know if the internal parts are interchangable between my 86 dual range manual.and a single range from a 90

just a question ...why is the O2 sensor placed before the catalytic con.

at the moment one can not download the info on carb to FI...is there some other site to do this...thanks