Petersubaru

your windows sounded like the same problem I had with them...try cleaning internally the switches on each door by removing the panels..should take just a few minutes to get at the problem for cleaning...the subaru switches rearly ever ware-out from use and in almost all cases become grimmy at the contacts...(the dirt on the contacts are only about the size of two well placed "periods" at the end of a sentence)...lightly sand the contacts with some very fine paper...also check the regultor (i believe that is what they call it) inside the drivers door...if there is power to each window and the motors are working, all should be fine then

leak-down test together with a compression test will pin point the trouble...rings or valves or maybe both....that is, if there is a problem there

does anybody know what the compression should be for an '86 GL10 "turbo"...I know that for my '86 N/A EA82 motor with 200,000mi. on it comes up at about 160-165 across the board

Just seeking to learn here...but why is it also important to get the shift linkage, since my wagen already has the two shifters in it...Thanks......

did you ever get around trying the Redline stuff in your tranny..and if so, was there any success or even a little difference...Thanks

does any one know from where one can buy tranny syncros...especially for the second gear

buying from a scrapeyard, the guy wants $120...does anyone have an idea as the "value" of a 5 speed tranny with about 120,000mi on it for my N/A, '86, 4 wheel dr.wagen...also, is there a way to tell if the tranny is any good (for example, no grinding of the gears, if the syncros are OK) without having to take it for a drive,which can not be done

adding the sealant could only be a pre-cautionary thing to do...I have been told by some reliable mechanics that the larger auto manufactures add some kind sealant to the rad before it leaves the factory...who knows for sure as to what is actually going on...are the newer subarus starting to have head gasket problems???...a major weakness once again???

I can only share my own experience...after pulling my hair out along with new head gaskets AGAIN...the fel pro manifold gaskets were changed to original subaru gaskets..what a difference in visual appearance ...took care of the leak...one of the fel-pro gaskets was slightly swollen and they fall apart if a drop of water gets on them before installation

Turbo hubs have a different diameter hole (larger)for the CV to pass thru ,so a regular EA82 hub will not do....

I am useing a thermos. from Napa /,drilled the hole I/16th. /but one that is rated for 160dg./..took care of the pinging sound since it lowered the temps

it is possible or at least here in North Am....in the last 9 months I have seen 2 listings between $400-$600 while visiting Florida for someone to come and drive the sub's away (there was even one sitting in the scrap yard...the scrap yard is now slowly closing up the business for good)...places like the Florida Keys (Key West) for example have to junk there cars in Miami 150mi(250kl.) away, ..enviromental concerns have closed all scrap yards in this part of the world...other examples of fine running motors with minor problems have to go also to Miami, minor repairs can become a days concern..this does not fit the leisurely image down there ...and if you can Afford that image, it simply becomes junk

Only my 2 cents here..I am not familiar with the '95's, but have 2 other FI cars..if your car has an idle screw that can be adjusted...unscrew the item completely out and clean it up...do not damage the tip or sharp point of the screw...if this is the cause, it should clear the idling problem up and while your at it, clean up the inside of the throttle plate etc.with the proper spray cleaner

I had a problem similar to this..I tightened the door down a bit a put on some rubber protectant on the seals to make them a little more slippery...a slight vibration of the door rubbing against rubber can cause a squeeking or creeking sound

what are you willing to pay for a good short block??... or how about an excellent complete motor, Turbo and all fuel injection parts/computer etc. ...it even gets better...also I have a set of Gen 1 turbo heads, sitting on the shelf for the last 14 yrs or so, rebuilt, no cracks between the valves,they look near new and ready for bolt on

I forgot to mention, the 30mpg was done at 60mpH and I drove 600 miles..when I returned,the fill-up was done at the same gas station and pump....patience is greatly required...this car consumes less gas then my carbed car with a manual tranny...go figure???

just make sure the core is the correct one...the one they got me was not the correct one...I ended up not changing it, but rather re-routed the heater pipes to the aluminum "rad" looking thing on the passenger side under the dash (I can't remember the name of it, but it is used for the air cond unit)..my A/C didn't work...A little fabrication and all is well

Hello..where can one buy the three way catalyst..Thanks

contrary to popular belief..not all GL-10's are turbos

30-31mpg/US.gal/reg fuel/highway driven at 60mph with cruise on an 86 auto turbo with about 186,000mi on it...still does not leak oil and runs absolutely smooth at 700-800rpm idle...around town it is not all that great..just recently purchased and I am the 2nd owner...everything still works on it

by removing a "fuse" to convert all wheel dr. too 2wh. dr.... does anyone have actual numbers from experience as to how many more miles per/gal this produces

can anyone from experience recommend a repair manual that would be best suited for the Understanding and Testing of fuel injection parts for my 86 Turbo

a very interesting web site

the difference is not just in the spline count but also the CV axle joint is wider (more strength) on the turbo..A good parts store should tell you exactly what you need ...axles from my 4wdr. manual and 2wdr auto would not fit on the 2wdr.auto turbo

just one question ...refurbished from where??...