Petersubaru

you are exactly correct ...thanks

at the moment because of the hurricane in florida it is near impossible to get my car (1991)into a garage for an inspection of the tranny...when I got the car 3 yrs ago the shifter was very loose to begin with , but now there is no reverse...all 5 forward gears work with no problem..I will try to lift the car up and look underneath, but I am not sure what to look for...any input would be appreciated

it is more then just adding a turbo and ajusting the fuel ratio..turbos that come from the factory also have injection pumps that put out more pressure along with different injectors

do you mean to add a turbo to a N/A motor

my 86 / no power windows or steering ..13,000

that is normal..put the cap back on and then it goes into overflow container...

all I can say is that I have a bunch of various subaru distributors and they all have 2 screws holding them in place..1 screw on the outside and another inside the dist...I suspect that someone tried taking the vac pot off before without a magnetic holding the screw and dropped it into the distr. and then used some other method to hold the vac pots arm in place like a pin or rivet...

on my ea82 I have just removed the vac ad. by leaving the distributor in the car..remove the cap and the one or two screws holding it down...

my 1.6 vw diesel N/A would beat my EA82 carby manual off the line, up the hills and down the road any day...

normal temps on the gauge is when the needle is at about the half way mark...lately when driving around town the needle goes to the 3/4 mark and stays there..it also does the same thing when driving 60mph or more, but when I drive the vehicle at the slower speed of 45-50mph it goes back down to the 1/2 mark...also when idleing for a short time in the sun the needle is at the upper limit but when I move the car into the shade the needle goes down to the 1/2 mark again for a minute or two...I have installed a new thermostate and checked the coolant for the proper strength and all is fine...I suspect that I need a new Rad..not sure ..any ideas

I could not find any relays that matched what I have(dealer item or pull from a scrap yard..you can interchange to find the problem relay...under my dash someone messed with it, so I can't tell you exactly which one...

Does anyone know of an electrical terminal "green" corrossion cleaner that can be sprayed

check the blower motor to see if it is OK by adding 12 volts from another source...then go and switch out the relays...one is probably burnt...located under the dash to the right of the fuse box...the relays have a slightly rounded top and I believe grayish in color/ all look the same....

the only thing that comes to mind is the "perversion conversion" at vwshoptalkforum.com ...

where and how are you going to put the rad for cooling...........

on one occassion I removed the the front grill and bumper and walked the motor out..and another time I first removed the heads and then piked the block up and out of the car by myself..I must say it would be much easier with a friend on each side of the car and almost a must when installing it

I forgot to ask, when checking your computor(ECU), did you just look for codes to come up or did you actually exchange the ECU???...years ago I had an ECU that caused the car to misfire...today I started the car up and the "miss" went from idle thru the whole rpm range...seems like my problem has only increased and maybe it will be easier for the mechanic to find the problem..I am interested to what you have to say concerning the ECU...maybe I will swap mine out and see what happens...after all, the only 2 things that have not been checked or replaced, is the ECU and injector(s)...the previous owner according to the worksheet at the garage had the whole injection system cleaned about 30,000mi. ago....

I seem to be a little more fortunate then you since my Sub has just passed the emmission tests with near new specs for a car that has 200,000miles...the vacuum leak(a long crack) I mentioned earlier was under the big rubber pipe coming from the maf to the throttle body..I would have never seen it, but the use of propane and wd40 sniffed it out...I have done mostly what is on your list and I suspect that maybe one of the injectors is not working as should...I am thinking in this direction because as long as the motor is warming up, there is no miss....the miss, is only at idle and not necessarily all the time , sometimes the missing can be weak or stronger...I noticed on your long list that no mention of an EGR..if you have checked for leaks and vacuum, did you check that the manifold side is not plugged up ...also no mention of an O2 sensor which is more important on the emmission side of things then smooth running....I have gut feeling that when you get your car up to pass the emmi., you will still have the Miss...Good Luck

I will put the seafoam in directly thru the Pvc or someother port...Thanks

86 MPFI Turbo..does anyone have any ideas as to why my car has a noticable miss at idle while in gear and not noticable at any other speed ...the car just passed the emissions test both at idle speed and at the 2500rpm test and passed with flying colors..I have checked the timing/idle is at 950 out of gear/new plugs and wires/new distributor cap/cleaned up the rotor/took starting fluid and sprayed the motor looking for vacuum leaks..I found one leak and corrected the problem, but still no change

I have used Por 15 over many years now and have found it to be generally a good product, but not to be used in all rusty situations, for example in areas that tend to vibrate or flex a little like fenders or doors...the Por 15 hardens up like glass,which is not good for flexing areas, especially, when you put down 3 coats, and I have also found that rust will creep back under the painted area without me even seeing it, even when there is no rust on the other side of the sheet metal..anyway I am looking for a better product for my situation and was wondering if anybody has ever used rustbullet www.rustbullet.com

I have used the lok-nut style on Vw's with no problem..use them together with some red or blue lock-tite....once they tighten-up and age you will need 250 lbs air tool to take them off.....

I got an older Haynes manual with a picture of it...keep in mind this is an English car... proportioning valves where not put on every subaru, it really depends in what market they ended up in,..for ex my 86 wagen does not have them and here in Canada according to the Subaru dealer there were no listings for these valves until 1992 and they were located on the fire wall ( I wanted those valves after having the car spin around on me in the snow & ice ?one of the more important safety items to have)...in the mid 80's a lot of things fell into the gray area, like seat-belts...Europe/England had 3 point belts and here they had lap belts..same issue with colapsible steering columns and it took years for the gov't to allow the volvo safety item to take place here.....enough of my rambling....

Thanks guys once again for clearing up the ECU questions

Thanks for responding back..can you explain one more question.. what do you mean by "splicing the Neutral wires down in the console"`....I like what you have done to your car, just great...did I miss it, but what year is the turbo subaru?..................................................................