Legacy777

where are the ridges in relationship to the head gasket? How much does the ridges raise up, and valley sink?

Fuel cut is based on boost pressure. The perfect power does not alter the boost signal to the ECU. You can get an external fuel cut defender to trick the ECU. I'm still reluctant to say the 550 injectors 100% solved his issues.

You can't turn it off.....you can use a manual boost controller or aftermarket electronic boost controller to control boost separately from the stock computer. I'd suggest checking out www.bbs.legacycentral.org

There is a button underneath the steering column where the lock cylinder is that will allow you to remove the key when it's being depressed. (the owner's manual shows you where it is) The issue you are having is part of the key-interlock system, which is tied into the transmission being in park before you can remove the key. It's possible the switch at the shifter lever is bad, or possibly the controller box under the dash. Check out these scans regarding the system http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/electrical.html#shiftlock

Check out my website: www.surrealmirage.com/subaru Notes & tips, engine related will have the info you want. I'd suggest pulling the codes again, just to make sure, and then resetting the ECU. Drive the car around, see if you get the CEL blinking again, if so, pull the codes and see which ones are come up again. I'd also suggest checking out www.bbs.legacycentral.org

The speed sensor in the combination meter (instrument cluster) is actually speed sensor #2. Speed sensor #1 is located in the rear tail housing of the transmission. This is only on the cars equipped with mechanical speedos. For the cars equipped with electronic speedos, the 2nd speed sensor is on the transmission/front differential I believe.

Not sure what to tell you. You may want to remove the torque converter entirely, and make sure the little cone seal on the end of the torque converter shaft is there, in tact, and pliable. You may want to squish it a little. I've heard of people having tons of problems getting the torque converter shaft back in, and I've also seen them just pop back on.

Here's the pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/underseatfuelwiring.jpg Usually the wires are kept together with tape, but those look all messed up, like someone had been messing with them. I'd definitely try and find a wiring diagram for the fuel sender for your car and do some testing. This is for the legacy, but should be the same/similar for the outback http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/

Yes the transmission needs to be removed to replace this gear. Actually the front diff needs to be pulled from the trans housing, but you still have to pull the transmission. If you want to do the conversion, check out my write up. I give separate 5MT & AWD conversion parts lists. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

yeah it's under the pass side intake manifold. here's a pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2477.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2476.JPG

I would question the quality/brand of flexplates they are using, and/or the torque procedure they are using. Do you have any significant power mods? You may want to check out www.subaru-svx.net/forum to see if anyone else has seen this specific problems.

It does something very similar/same to the US cars with the manual button http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=410273#post410273

Bingo

You need to rotate and push gently. It needs to seat back in the oil pump housing properly, or it will kill the oil pump in the trans. If you search, there's several threads about this issue.

There may be a procedure to pull the TCU codes yourself, but I'm not sure what it is for the newer cars. I'd suggest searching the board and see what you come up with.

yeah....I'd love to see a picture...haha.. BTW, you think the GR2's are a stiff ride.....you haven't seen anything. Mine can get pretty bad on the roads in Houston, but it handles unbelievably

First thing I'd do is check the resistance on the wiring going to the MAF sensor and see if you have a short or wire that has a high resistance. If you've replaced the sensor and ECU, I don't see what else it could be. Have you gone to the dealer to pull the TCU codes? Or can you pull them yourself with the scan tool?

The FAQ sticky had the link you wanted http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51554

The link broke. Those four spots are probably spot welded. There should be some form of bolt or something to remove/replace just the link.

I don't think the sunroof relay is the same as the window relay. This drawing doesn't specify that it's for the windows... http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/elect_unit_loc/6-3_electrical_unit_location03.jpg

Get a gauge and check the fuel pressure at idle with and without the vacuum line attached.

I believe the difference is in the engine size. I think the clutch on the 2.2 liter motor is slightly smaller then the clutch on the 2.5 liter motor.

The technical name is the crankshaft key You can try and find a generic one, or get it from the dealer.

Yeah I don't think the CEL & fuel gauge are connected. Definitely go get the codes pulled. Those should be brake lines running under the seat. Email the picture and I can host, jlegacy (at) surrealmirage.com

The pressure sensor tells the ECU what the barometric pressure is so it can adjust the a/f mixture at lower/higher altitudes. The diagram shows it piped up to the intake manifold and canister purge solenoid. It's possible with that disconnected and having a slight vacuum leak is what could be causing your issues. I'd double check all the vacuum lines, reset the ECU, and see how she runs.