Legacy777

When was the last time the engine ran? Did you swap the engine harness from your old engine when you did the JDM swap? If not, it's possible the wiring is different.

So you didn't get any codes when connecting just the black memory read connectors? I've got written instructions on my site. It may help to see it in writing, maybe not.... http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html Regarding the door, there are two different switches, one is a push button switch which is used for the overhead light. I don't recall whether this is hooked into the dash door indicator. If it's not, the other switch is actually in the lock mechanism inside the door. This is also used to trigger the auto seat belt to engage/disengage. Replacing the one in the door would likely removing the lock assembly and adjusting the switch or replacing the entire lock mechanism.

I would think they would probably work.

Welcome to the USMB. It sounds like you may have two separate issues, the clutch shutter and popping, and the shifting. Does the popping sound still occur if the engine is off and you depress the clutch while the car is stopped? Can you provide some additional information as to "what" is extremely loud when you shift hard.

Bump, can anyone help out?

Does your engine harness come from the fire wall area, or does it come from the area right behind the battery? Hopefully someone could take a picture for you.

To swap to the 92 red top injectors, you will need the ECU, injectors and fuel rails. The fuel rails are different as well.

You guys are right....I wasn't thinking about the oil. I've edited my original post. I do know that if you follow Subaru's torquing procedure that you only should use the oil. Grease or moly lube will change the torque applied to the bolts based on Subaru's torquing procedure.

Thanks for posting that over here

The only correlation to those symptoms would be possible electrical issues. Maybe a short. What you can do to test this theory would be to get a multi-meter, disconnect the negative lead from the battery and put the meter in between the negative lead and the battery. When the meter is in the amps setting, it should tell you how many amps are being drawn. You only want to do this when the car is off. When it's sitting, you should only have a few milliamps of draw. If you have more than that, it could indicate there is a short some where.

I know the later Subaru stereos had hookups for ipods & read mp3 cds. You could try looking at a stereo from a newer subaru and see if it'll work. I don't know for sure, but I'm going to guess the opening area is a double DIN. Most of the aftermarket stuff is a single DIN. Hopefully some others can chime in with some suggestions as well.

You do not want to put anything on the head bolt threads. They're supposed to be installed only with oil. Also there is a crazy torque sequence you're supposed to follow. I don't have it, but maybe someone else can post it.

Welcome to the USMB. There was a brat up in the Dallas area several years back at one of the subaru state meets. Pretty sure he was on the USMB, but haven't seen him since.

You're probably best off getting the o-rings from the dealer. You may be able to try and find one at a local parts stuff.

The main reason you see a decrease in base compression ratio when going to turbo or super charged engines is due to normal gasoline's inability to ward off pre-ignition or autoignition at higher temperatures caused by higher CR's. If you run race gas with a higher octane rating, then you could get away with a higher base compression ratio and run more boost. Since you're planning to run LPG, I'm not sure how that fuel will compare to gasoline. I'd suggest doing some research on what the comparable gasoline anti-knock index or grade would be for LPG. If it is comparable or higher to what your "premium" fuel would be, you can probably get away with a little more boost. If it's lower, you will likely run into issues. Edit: Did a quick search and I haven't found any hard numbers, but it's looking like propane has a high anti-knock index. It's not as high as natural gas, but still pretty good compared to gasoline. With that being said, you could likely run the stock CR and more boost without autoignition. This is a document from the DOE's website. It has info on CNG and automobile engines....it may be helpful. http://www.osti.gov/bridge/purl.cover.jsp;jsessionid=42C46D14FA0C3A2886ED35D0E8C0DB2C?purl=/2469-QJvGAp/webviewable/

You may want to check out the Texas regional forum on NASIOC, http://forums.nasioc.com/forums There's quite a few members in TX and should be able to point you to a shop in the area.

Welcome to the USMB From what I've found, the A MAF is different. I couldn't tell you what the difference is. I found some remarks in the parts book C0 & U0. Not exactly sure what that means though. It may refer to the Federal vs. California cars. I found this document and it appears to confirm the fact they are different MAFs. http://www.micro-tech-auto.com/images/pdf/mafcat.pdf However, if you wanted to give one a shot, the 22680AA160 MAF is what is on all the other Legacies of that vintage.

Are you talking about non-turbo EJ22's? I'm going to assume you are. The big thing is going to be the compression ratio. With the stock compression ratio of 9.5 to 1, you won't be able to run a lot of boost. Most people that I've heard of boosting non-turbo subie engines only run between 5-7 psi of boost. You will also need some form of engine management, piggy back to control things The other thing to note is the pistons are going to be stronger on the turbo motors to help deal with the added temperature and load from the turbo.

According to NGK's site, the FR5AP-11 are "Laser Platinum" plugs, while the BKR5EGP are just standard platinum plugs. How many miles do you have on the plugs? The platinum plugs will last quite a while. You can find out more info on the plugs from NGK's site. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/car_truck_suv/index.asp

Welcome to the USMB. If the car requires premium the ECU is going to be tuned to take advantage of it, and run more timing, which does improve mileage. So if you run regular grade, the ECU could pick up knock and retard timing a little bit, which will decrease mileage. As for your current decrease in mileage, you could have gotten a bad tank of gas, or the ECU has just learned the your overall driving habits and adjusted. This is usually a case when driving mixed, highway & city. You could try resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery cable for an hour or so and then see if that brings the mileage back to what it was. Personally, I don't really trust the computer mileage readings, so you may want to do your fuel mileage by hand and compare it to what the computer says. Also, I think the 25 mpg is more what I would expect to see from that car, rather than the 33.

You can read parameters via the Subaru select monitor port, besides just the basic diagnostic codes from the check engine light. A member from the Legacycentral BBS has made a program to hookup to the select monitor port. Here's info on the scan tool/program http://www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/b10scan

Welcome to the USMB. I do not know the differences in wiring between the gauge clusters. You may want to try posting in the Legacy forum on NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums Some people in there may know.

All the stickies were compiled into that one sticky. The more stickies you have, the less people tend to look at them.

You can add it to the sticky compilation thread yourself. Please follow the guidelines in the first post for posting links. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51554 Thanks

Thanks for sharing.