heartless

that would be my guess... and they dont typically mix oil & coolant... at least not in the beginning.

i second the pedal assembly... other half's 2006 had odd symptoms - surging idle, slow to respond, etc... replacing the pedal assembly solved it

do your homework, check the forums, pretty much everyone will tell you NGK copper core plugs - including your owners manual. this is from the 2002 Forester owners manual (i used to own one)... Dont see Denso Platinum listed here... and honestly, i would not use the Champions either.. not on a Subaru.

very possible if you still have the old hub you could check that

possibly keyless control unit? number 15 in the diagram here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/en_s10/type_10/electronic/electrical_parts_body/illustration_2/ (the diagram is for European market, so not positive.. it was either that or USA market)

two wires wont work correctly... one fan is for engine cooling (relies on signal from temps sensor) the other is for when AC is in use (relies on input from hvac system) you wont get a two wire fan to run correctly on a 4 wire system, it just wont work right.

uh, seems to me if you are getting "steam pockets" then yes, there ARE air pockets... you need air to get steam,... Just sayin and I will agree with GD about the aftermarket t-stat.. get a proper OE one and refill with the nose in the air... fill thru upper rad hose first, then radiator..

have you tried checking/comparing wiring diagrams for the two vehicles in question? ie: the Subaru and the BMW... see what is different between them... might give you a clue on what needs to be done

yeah, sometimes it is a challenge, but if you just throw parts at it without actually testing those parts before replacing, that is not ideal and yes, one thing at a time for sure. '99 2.2 is not all that complicated, really.. and there are usually only a couple of things that would cause a misfire. coils on these cars dont fail all that often, and when they do, it is usually pretty obvious. Also quite typical to be worse when the weather is damp... I have a very short video clip showing what a bad coil does here: bad wires (typically aftermarket) will do something similar, but sometimes harder to see, so checking things out after dark can often help. If it is bad enough, it can often be seen in full daylight, like the bad coil above.. but sometimes it is not that bad, or in a difficult to see spot.

100% what was said above.... these cars are very fussy about plugs and wires. NGK basic copper core plugs at the proper gap are all it needs, anything else is a waste of your money. Wires should be either OEM or NGK only... again, anything else is a waste of your money and will fail prematurely. replacing stuff randomly is bad practice.. you need to figure out what the problem actually is before throwing parts at it.

Agree with azdave... i have no desire to own a new model... just one minor difference between he and I - I have never paid more than $2500 for one, LOL (usually less than 2k) last time I had a car payment was in 1990-91 - and in the middle of a divorce the car got repo-ed.. I swore I would never do it again, and I haven't. And if they would actually teach driving skills in drivers ed, we wouldn't need all of that fancy crap they insist on putting in new cars. my partner has a 2017 Mazda CX5 - has a lot of that fancy lane assist, auto braking stuff - i have driven the thing exactly once, and hated it.

honestly, i would just replace what is already there. final drive probably wont match between a 4spd & a 5spd auto... not to mention you would most likely need the appropriate TCU as well... save yourself the headaches and just go with what it already has

just taking a wild stab in the dark, but my guess would be that the Imp is sold more as a "performance" car, the Foz is more utility either way, the o-ring on the orange one is toast.

it has been said many times over... NGK copper core plugs - you do NOT need the fancy iridium, platinum, or anything else.. just plain old copper cores set to the correct gap NGK or OEM wires ONLY - anything else is a waste of time and money. Sure, they might work for a little while, but they WILL fail prematurely

for those metrically challenged... 195mm = 7.67 inches 33mm = 1.29 inches

there is a copy of the 04 Foz manual at https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ i own and drive an 04 right now, but have never messed with the dash... also have an 05 parts car

even smallish hands have a hard time getting to some of that stuff... knuckles get smacked up and bloody..

honestly, i would go EJ22 before I would EA82 and yes, I have owned both.

no, it does not prevent it from starting... the procedure to clear the codes does require the car to run with those connected. @Steptoe's photos - disconnect the battery for about 30 mins or so - that will clear any stored codes that is the only other way of doing it to my knowledge

you do not run the engine to read codes... that is for clearing/resetting to read - connectors connected, key on, engine OFF if memory serves... green connectors will cycle all the solenoids & fans to check that all are functioning correctly. Black ones are for reading the stored codes, again, with key ON, engine OFF

most are set up to deal with the fluids, but it costs them money to do so, both in labor costs and in disposal costs. They would much rather you drained the fluids so they dont have to deal with the costs involved. simple economics.

NO!! use the standard NGK copper core plugs. there is absolutely zero reason to use those overpriced plugs.\ Also... buy your plugs locally.. no reason to buy on Amazon when you can get them at any parts place.

they ask you to do the fluid drains because they dont want to... you might have a small deduction made if you dont, big deal... they usually deduct for tires as well.

you did not need to start a new thread for this. you could have put it in the other one

correlation does not imply causation. i doubt very much that the fuel change caused the problem (unless the fuel was bad for some reason), it just happened to be coincidental. 24 yr old wires are more likely the culprit. Yes, the OE wires do tend to last a long time, but good grief, even they will fail eventually, Replacements should be either new OE or NGK ONLY. Anything else is a waste of your time, effort and money.